(Topic ID: 26617)

Repolish stainless steel side rails

By jomama

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 36 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by jomama
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    IMG_0236.JPG
    IMG_0234.JPG
    IMAG1266.jpg
    IMAG1265.jpg
    pin2.png
    pin.png
    IMG_0233.JPG
    pin2.png
    pin.png
    Playboy_8_front_cab.JPG
    #1 11 years ago

    Does anyone know what is the best way to restore your stainless steel side rails to get them to shine again or to get them back to the way they are new on the machine?

    #2 11 years ago

    thats what i used on the lockdown bar and door (and door frame) went i restored my playboy.

    but before that i used sand papers starting with 180 and finished with 1200... long process.

    Playboy_8_front_cab.JPGPlayboy_8_front_cab.JPG

    #3 11 years ago

    Wow, nice job Beatmaster.

    #4 11 years ago

    good tip...thanks Beatmaster

    #5 11 years ago

    WOW looks great !!!!! Where did you buy the buffing kit?

    #6 11 years ago

    auto parts here in canada, probably something similar in your area.

    #7 11 years ago

    You want some sort of metal polish. Mag wheel polish from the auto parts store will do fine. I use Blue Magic. Put dab on a clean rag, rub on side rail. It's time consuming and smelly, but will clean up everything but ball trails on ramps (regraining fixes that).

    Be careful what games you use it on. If it's an older game with fade or dings on the cabinet, making the side rails and lockdown bar minty may look out of place. Metal polish will make them look damb near new (except for the scratches, which will now be much more visible).

    #8 11 years ago

    This is my machine i am trying to restore this is the first part I have finished with a lot to still do.

    pin.pngpin.png pin2.pngpin2.png IMG_0233.JPGIMG_0233.JPG

    #10 11 years ago

    The person who own this machine before me never worked on it and it was hand painted also.

    #11 11 years ago

    Very nice. You can also use the polish to clean plated metal parts above and below the playfield. Gottlieb used an awesome plating process back in the day. If the parts are just tarnished, polish will make them look spectacular.

    #12 11 years ago

    25 years of painting Ships in the military did pay off, thought it never would till now.

    #13 11 years ago

    backbox looks GREAT!

    #14 11 years ago

    Thanks phishrace there is alot of items that look as if they are brass or copper in the cabinet. That hint will come in handy.

    #15 11 years ago

    I will start painting the cabinet tomarrow hope to have it done by the weekend, however I have sent my playfield to HSA pinball to repaint and clear coat it. Should look new when i am done. this is my first pinball machine and the bug has bitten me.

    #16 11 years ago

    This is my machine i am trying to restore this is the first part I have finished with a lot to still do.

    pin.pngpin.png pin2.pngpin2.png

    #17 11 years ago

    The nickel plated looking stuff is what will really pop after you polish it. The metal piece that goes over the shooter lane is a good place to start. Remove the parts before polishing so you can do both sides and don't get any polish on other parts.

    Works on other metals too, but the chrome-ish looking stuff really stands out once polished. Be sure to post more pics when you get finished.

    #18 11 years ago

    No problem I will keep posting pics for you all.

    #19 11 years ago

    Found the metal polish kit on ebay for 19.99. Thanks again for the advise.

    #20 11 years ago
    Quoted from jomama:

    Found the metal polish kit on ebay for 19.99. Thanks again for the advise.

    Got a link to the auction?

    Also, what is being used to polish? Just a normal drill, or are some of you lucky enough to have a adjustable speed bench grinder/buffer?

    #21 11 years ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Got a link to the auction?
    Also, what is being used to polish? Just a normal drill, or are some of you lucky enough to have a adjustable speed bench grinder/buffer?

    i used a normal power drill and work just fine.

    #22 11 years ago

    No polish needed to restore stock appearance. Just use painters tape on the cab and glass for protection, then sandpaper to desired grain. I took my TAF from crappy to gleaming in less than an hour of elbow grease and a few grades of sandpaper. Actually I used the spongy sanding blocks, kept damp (but not wet) to cut down on dust. Works wonders.

    Good luck!

    Brian

    #23 11 years ago

    pinster68...What grit sanding sponges did you use?

    #24 11 years ago

    Not sure. It's not printed on the blocks, but I'll venture to say 200 to remove scratches, and 400/800 to target finish.

    #25 11 years ago

    I love shiny things.

    IMAG1265.jpgIMAG1265.jpg IMAG1266.jpgIMAG1266.jpg

    #26 11 years ago

    I just went to ebay and looked up stainless polishing kit and it came up with several kits, most were the same company. I went with ENKAY Stainless Steel Polishing Kit #143 it veried from 24.99 to 17.99 just had to look trhough them and they will work with a drill also.

    #27 11 years ago
    Quoted from pinster68:

    Not sure. It's not printed on the blocks, but I'll venture to say 200 to remove scratches, and 400/800 to target finish.

    Do you know what color they were? I think the color may be code for the grit on those things

    #28 11 years ago

    I have a sponge looking sanding block that is a 3000 grit not sure if it is the same.

    #29 11 years ago
    Quoted from Old_Hutch:

    Do you know what color they were? I think the color may be code for the grit on those things

    Sort of dull grey. I don't think they were color coded like Scotch-brite pads - which incidentally might work quite well too.

    #30 11 years ago

    It is almost a white gray in color and it has 3000 grit on the block. It is a 3m sanding pad I got at Auto Zone.

    #31 11 years ago

    The Pin Family is that buffing motor the one from Harbor Frieght. I am looking at one on their site.

    #32 11 years ago
    Quoted from jomama:

    The Pin Family is that buffing motor the one from Harbor Frieght. I am looking at one on their site.

    It is. It does the job but I think a better one would have more torque. It needs more torque. For occasional buffing its fine. If you plan on polishing all the metal for more than 2-3 pins a year id get a better one.

    #33 11 years ago

    Ok thanks for the info, I will keep looking.

    #34 11 years ago

    Well I got the body of the machine painted, now to get all the stainless shined and put it back together.

    IMG_0234.JPGIMG_0234.JPG IMG_0236.JPGIMG_0236.JPG

    #35 11 years ago

    Jomama. I have used Scotchbrite pads (green) with pretty good results, hand polishing in the direction of the grain. It doesn't produce a mirror finish but instead puts a "grained" look that I think resembles the original look. I saw a Delorean owner polishing his car recently at a show using the maroon Scotchbrite pads. (stainless steel body panels) Straight motions in the direction of the grain. The maroon is slightly finer. Wally

    #36 11 years ago

    Thanks Wally. The coin door and the strick plate have a pattern on them the side rails and the lock down bar are smooth I plan on buffing them to a shiny surface. Again thanks for the info and I will pick them up and use them.

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repolish-stainless-steel-side-rails and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.