(Topic ID: 244698)

Replacing WPC connector 115

By fatality83

2 years ago


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  • 26 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by Pin_Fandango
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    #1 2 years ago

    I am in the process of replacing connector and header pins j120 and j115 on the driver board of my T-2. The j115 is the ac in for the the GI. There is supposed to be 3 wires which daisy chained from the bottom pin to the one above it. See this link for a picture of what it looks like stock. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

    My question is, instead of trying to cram two wires in one molex connector and then crimping it somehow, can I just link the header pins together on the back of the board by soldering the two linked pins together on the back of the board? That would achieve the same results I would imagine, but wanted to verify everyone's opinions before doing it. I think that would make for a cleaner job then trying to cram two wires into molex connector.

    Also anyone else see WPC use a different color wire in J115. As you can see in my picture, this connector was "repaired" before by an expert craftsman in a controlled environment more then likely l . Look at the top wire that is soldered directly to a trace on the board. Mine is a gold color with silver stripe instead of yellow with white stripe like it is supposed to be. As far as I traced the wire it appears to be this color and I don't see any splices in it so it seems it was always this color originally.

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    #2 2 years ago

    you call that work an expert craftsman?
    looks like a hack to me.
    need to fix it right, re-pin and replace the molex connector.

    #3 2 years ago

    Don't hack board. Replace pins, replace connector.

    Where you have two wires in the same spot. Take the two wires and solder the ends together, solder them to a single wire. ( making a "Y" ) insert the single wire into the connector.

    LTG : )

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Don't hack board. Replace pins, replace connector.
    Where you have two wires in the same spot. Take the two wires and solder the ends together, solder them to a single wire. ( making a "Y" ) insert the single wire into the connector.
    LTG : )

    Yup Loyd I am doing all that already got the pins on the board replaced and am getting ready to replace the connectors. I will do it the way you said. As Long as I don't have to cram two wires in one molex I am happy. I took this picture before I removed the board to do work. Gotta love the expert repair done on this thing before lol

    #5 2 years ago
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    #6 2 years ago

    Do not solder to the back of the board. That wire ever comes loose, you’ll have issues. Also makes future troubleshooting more difficult. I just came across this with my WH20. Had a light string out and couldn’t figure out where the wire was, until I realized it had been soldered to the back of the board. Board had to come out, redid the header and the connector, all good.

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from pencilneck:

    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Looks good, do you remember off hand what size molex pins you used when you doubled the wire up? Did you use a larger wire size connector for the doubled up ones?

    #8 2 years ago

    I used Molex 0008520113.

    But that was a bad way to do this...... the next pin, I did this:
    20180617_142348 (resized).jpg20180617_114213 (resized).jpg20180617_160617 (resized).jpg

    This was an easier to do and is electrical - mechanical superior to what I did with the first pin. The heat shrink I use is adhesive lined to support the wires so they won't fail at the crimps.

    #9 2 years ago
    Quoted from pencilneck:

    I used Molex 0008520113.
    This was an easier to do and is electrical - mechanical superior to what I did with the first pin. The heat shrink I use is adhesive lined to support the wires so they won't fail at the crimps.

    Why not just solder it?

    #10 2 years ago

    As to joining the common pins together on the back of the board, do it. Tie the top 6 pins together (with keyed pin), then the next 5 pins together and leave the bottom one separate (bottom one is actually the same circuit as the top 6 (ground). This will help distribute the heat better especially if you still have incandescents in the game. These were all tied together like that on the boards from system 7-11C and for some reason are separate eyelets on WPC.

    #11 2 years ago

    Well I ended up trying to recreate the way they were from the factory. I think it turned out pretty good. The only thing I probably would of done differently if I was to do this again would be to to order 16 gauge molex connectors instead of the 18-20 gauge that I had for this? I had to strip a little more then you typically should to get them both to fit in the connector. I did put some heat shrink on them to help support them. I did forget to remove the key pins from the board when I soldered on the new header pins so I have to do that. Any chances a pair of nippy cutters will cut through the key pin that way I can just cut them instead of unsoldering them from the board or would that break the nippy cutters because the pin is to thick?

    Other than that, it was a great success. When I first powered the game on I had a little scare as the DMD would display garbage on boot up and then just went to showing a vertical line on the far right side. Turns out I missed plugging in the white green connector on the top left of the board. Plugging that back in fixed the dmd and not only did replacing these pins and connectors fix the burning smell I was getting from the game but my pop bumpers are lighting up as well the bottom right slingshot GI which were both out when I got the game. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Glad to get this fixed. All in all I ended up replacing three burnt connectors. The J120 and J115 and one secondary plug on the right side of the board which was more hacked from a prior "repair" but there was a little darkness on the header pins. Looks like someone spliced on a "new" connector where the burnt pins were but didn't replace the pins.

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    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    Why not just solder it?

    I come from an automotive background. Soldering wires is a very bad idea in an environment that sustains vibration. Over the course of time the stranded wire will fatigue and fail at the soldier joint. How many times have you found failed connections at flippers or pop bumpers where the wire has broken free?

    However, pinball harness version automotive harness.... 2 major differences... a failed wire in pinball doesn't create a safety hazard on the road (stalled engine for example) and you have "easy" access to all of the wiring harness in a pinball machine.

    #13 2 years ago
    Quoted from pencilneck:

    I come from an automotive background. Soldering wires is a very bad idea in an environment that sustains vibration. Over the course of time the stranded wire will fatigue and fail at the soldier joint. How many times have you found failed connections at flippers or pop bumpers where the wire has broken free?
    However, pinball harness version automotive harness.... 2 major differences... a failed wire in pinball doesn't create a safety hazard on the road (stalled engine for example) and you have "easy" access to all of the wiring harness in a pinball machine.

    I meant the splices, not the connectors. And the # of times a couple of wires soldered together have failed in my pinball machines over 30 years..... 0.

    As for coil connections, there's going to be solder somewhere there, either on the wires from the coil to the terminal, or on the diode (if equipped), and most likely on the terminals themselves. The # of wires that have fatigued off a coil over 30 years I can count with less than 2 hands.

    On a related note, any idea where you can get spade lug connectors that don't suck anymore? (like you'd use to put on a wms 3-11 bridge rectifier) - the quality of random purchases via amazon/ebay/lowe's/home depot is really bad. We have crap ones at work, too (in busses.... the crimp is usually ok but the mating surface looses tension all the time)

    #14 2 years ago

    good job! i thought J120 had 6 wires on it, what game is this for?

    #15 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    good job! i thought J120 had 6 wires on it, what game is this for?

    Its a t-2, yeah everything I saw said there should be more wires but I am thinking maybe that was for some of the newer era games. There was only 4 wires on the old plug that came off

    #16 2 years ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    On a related note, any idea where you can get spade lug connectors that don't suck anymore?

    Molex and Tyco both make them, should be better than the generic china stuff. I would suspect digikey would carry both.

    #17 2 years ago

    I would have just used the same PanCon IDC connector and would be good for another 25 cycles

    1 year later
    #18 11 months ago
    Quoted from fatality83:

    Well I ended up trying to recreate the way they were from the factory. I think it turned out pretty good. The only thing I probably would of done differently if I was to do this again would be to to order 16 gauge molex connectors instead of the 18-20 gauge that I had for this? I had to strip a little more then you typically should to get them both to fit in the connector. I did put some heat shrink on them to help support them. I did forget to remove the key pins from the board when I soldered on the new header pins so I have to do that. Any chances a pair of nippy cutters will cut through the key pin that way I can just cut them instead of unsoldering them from the board or would that break the nippy cutters because the pin is to thick?
    Other than that, it was a great success. When I first powered the game on I had a little scare as the DMD would display garbage on boot up and then just went to showing a vertical line on the far right side. Turns out I missed plugging in the white green connector on the top left of the board. Plugging that back in fixed the dmd and not only did replacing these pins and connectors fix the burning smell I was getting from the game but my pop bumpers are lighting up as well the bottom right slingshot GI which were both out when I got the game. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Glad to get this fixed. All in all I ended up replacing three burnt connectors. The J120 and J115 and one secondary plug on the right side of the board which was more hacked from a prior "repair" but there was a little darkness on the header pins. Looks like someone spliced on a "new" connector where the burnt pins were but didn't replace the pins.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I am trying to get this done on my pin as well, but I am confused about the color coding. all the cables are yellow (some with dots).
    How important is to maintain the location for the yellow ones? I am not saying to interchange with the yellow/white, but to mix the location of the yellow ones... Is this an issue?

    #19 11 months ago

    I'm not sure I fully understand your question... here is what I suspect you might be asking about....

    easy question:
    Wire comes into position /1 of a terminal then loops around to position /2 of that same terminal. Is it safe to come into /2 and then loop back to /1?

    Or....

    not so easy question:
    You have 2 separate wires, same color combo, wire A and wire B. Wire A went to terminal positions /1 and /2 where as wire B went to terminal positions /5 and /6. Is it safe to put wire B on terminals /1 and /2 and wire A over on terminals /5 and /6?

    Easy question, easy answer, sure, doesn't matter
    Not so easy questions... not sure. If it is an AC circuit I guess it wouldn't matter. But the other ends of those wires will go to some other terminal housing and the wiring diagram will have position listed so you would ohm out known [X] down there and then ID the unknown [Y] at the other end and verify that is the A or B wire.

    1 week later
    #20 11 months ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I am trying to get this done on my pin as well, but I am confused about the color coding. all the cables are yellow (some with dots).

    I assume you are referring to GI wiring; however, I have no documentation anywhere showing that these are all yellow wires anywhere except at the transformer.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #21 11 months ago
    wpc_gi_early.jpg
    #22 11 months ago

    What manual is that from? That diagram isn't in my WPC89 nor my WPC95 manuals.

    #23 11 months ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    [quoted image]

    Needs to be on Pinwiki.

    #24 11 months ago
    Quoted from Pin_Guy:

    I assume you are referring to GI wiring; however, I have no documentation anywhere showing that these are all yellow wires anywhere except at the transformer.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    thanks for this, yes I have this WPC manual and this is the 'later' version and I have the earlier which has been posted after this thread.

    Quoted from DumbAss:

    [quoted image]

    Please can you upload this manual to a dropbox or somewhere of your preference where it can be downloaded, I cannot find this version of the WPC manual.

    #25 11 months ago

    If I knew what all WPC titles had this yellow only secondary wiring I can modify the .pdf to include these wire colors.

    #26 11 months ago

    I actually prefer to have the original PDF, just in case there are other small differences not noted in the later version.

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