Fixing/Replacing Stern Spike & Spooky noisy PS fans (plugnplay shipping now)

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1

#551 2 years ago

MJH

Markharris2000

Pinside member

Fremont, CA

4y 81,050 2,889 3 10 1

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Spec-wise you should be fine, but the connector on that fan is too thick/large to plug into the receptacle in the power supply (if it is the same as in the picture), so you will have to cut and splice in a new one or crimp in new pins and a smaller compatible connector.
Another path you can take if you have some resistors and shrink wrap on hand is to put a resistor on the red lead of the stock fan to reduce the voltage, which will slow the revolutions of the fan blade and should reduce the noise. It's a hassle to figure out the ideal resistor to use to get the best result, but the stock fan has about twice the CFM of the fan in the plug and play kit I sell (and the one recommended in the OP), so you have a lot of overhead to work with if you want to play around and spend the least amount of money possible (i.e. you have more spare time than money). At some point the fan will not run if the voltage is too low, so there's a fine line to walk. If you go this route, please share your result!

Years ago, the PC builders were making kits to reduce their 12V fans to 7v to reduce noise. FRYS here in California used to sell the cable. It was a simple 1/2Watt resistor. If I remember my math, "R=E/I" where the voltage you want to drop is 5volts, and the fan spec says it consumes .13Amps. So doing that math yields 38ohms, which is very close to a stock 39ohm part. Try putting a 39ohm, 1/2watt carbon resistor in the red power line to the existing cable....

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#552 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Markharris2000:
Years ago, the PC builders were making kits to reduce their 12V fans to 7v to reduce noise. FRYS here in California used to sell the cable. It was a simple 1/2Watt resistor. If I remember my math, "R=E/I" where the voltage you want to drop is 5volts, and the fan spec says it consumes .13Amps. So doing that math yields 38ohms, which is very close to a stock 39ohm part. Try putting a 39ohm, 1/2watt carbon resistor in the red power line to the existing cable....

The only problem is some of these fans will not even start if the voltage is too low, so it can take some experimentation to find the threshold.

Note that I do not know if the Stock stern fan is much quieter when running slower because it's a crappy ball bearing fan, but if someone tries it, it will be interesting to see how much quieter it can get and what the cutoff is for the voltage where the fan refuses to start.

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#553 2 years ago

JMG

Pin_Fandango

Pin Fandango

Ottawa, ON

3y 82,550 4,363

I honestly do not have any interest in experimenting with that, I would end up second guessing my work and will not really know how fast the fan is going or needs to be so I prefer to have some sort of certainty, I do appreciate the tips and would probably do it if this was a part that was difficult to find or if this was an older game...

With that said, I spent some time trying to source the parts listed in post #1, I did find the fan on Digikey but cannot find the connector and terminals and I do not want to splice the cable because I am OCD and --- insert meme 'nobody will know - no one's gonna know---

so I guess I will pick up pinmonk's fan.

I truly wanted to roll my one to get that sense of pride in knowing I had done it myself, I also have lots of cable and EVERY other molex connector under the sun, but not this JST... but can't spend any more time searching for a 0.10 cents connector.

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#554 2 years ago

???

pins4u

Pinside apprentice

Gaborone

3y 34,400 1,037

Quoted from Markharris2000:
Years ago, the PC builders were making kits to reduce their 12V fans to 7v to reduce noise. FRYS here in California used to sell the cable. It was a simple 1/2Watt resistor. If I remember my math, "R=E/I" where the voltage you want to drop is 5volts, and the fan spec says it consumes .13Amps. So doing that math yields 38ohms, which is very close to a stock 39ohm part. Try putting a 39ohm, 1/2watt carbon resistor in the red power line to the existing cable....

This is true of older two wire fans (I have no idea what fans are used in these supplies as I haven't looked) BUT modern fans have a feedback sensor and unless the motor is turning at the correct speed they often won't operate. Some might but it couldn't be guaranteed.

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#555 2 years ago

MJH

Markharris2000

Pinside member

Fremont, CA

4y 81,050 2,889 3 10 1

Quoted from pins4u:
This is true of older two wire fans (I have no idea what fans are used in these supplies as I haven't looked) BUT modern fans have a feedback sensor and unless the motor is turning at the correct speed they often won't operate. Some might but it couldn't be guaranteed.

Good point. Anyone know if the FAN inside the factory Power Supply is a three-wire?

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#556 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Markharris2000:
Good point. Anyone know if the FAN inside the factory Power Supply is a three-wire?

The Stern meanwell power supply stock fan is pictured in the OP. It's a 2 wire. Although there is a 3rd pad on the circuit board, so it may have a 3 wire option, but it's not something you can easily add yourself because it's covered in a mass of silicone goop that's a pain to remove.

Also, as an interesting aside, you can see why the stock fan is so crappy when you look at the blades. They're not very wide at all, about 30-40% narrower than the Sunon fans I use, so they have to spin a LOT faster to even drive the same airflow, and even at a slower speed that would make them much noisier than the Sunons.

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#557 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:
I honestly do not have any interest in experimenting with that, I would end up second guessing my work and will not really know how fast the fan is going or needs to be so I prefer to have some sort of certainty, I do appreciate the tips and would probably do it if this was a part that was difficult to find or if this was an older game...
With that said, I spent some time trying to source the parts listed in post #1, I did find the fan on Digikey but cannot find the connector and terminals and I do not want to splice the cable because I am OCD and --- insert meme 'nobody will know - no one's gonna know---
so I guess I will pick up pinmonk's fan.
I truly wanted to roll my one to get that sense of pride in knowing I had done it myself, I also have lots of cable and EVERY other molex connector under the sun, but not this JST... but can't spend any more time searching for a 0.10 cents connector.

Yeah, that's always the trade. Do you want to pay in time (DIY, with all that entails) or money (premade, little actual time investment). There's always a cost. The connectors that have gone NLA since my original post in the OP are still out there worldwide, but they're a pain to track down now and may have minimum purchase requirements.

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#558 2 years ago

JMG

Pin_Fandango

Pin Fandango

Ottawa, ON

3y 82,550 4,363

I got your fan sold locally. Will install later tonight.

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#559 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:
I got your fan sold locally. Will install later tonight.

You should notice an improvement immediately.

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#560 2 years ago

JMG

Pin_Fandango

Pin Fandango

Ottawa, ON

3y 82,550 4,363

Ok PinMonk give me hand

What is the issue with the blob? In the instructions there it a caution note on step 5.
It says to cut the blob slowly and not disturb point 1 and 2.

Is point 1 refering to the connector for the temperature switch? And point 2 for the little resistor on the board?

In other words, i would like to lift the blob and release it from the board... is the blob doing anything in particular other than holding the cable...

Please advise

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#561 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:
Ok PinMonk give me hand
What is the issue with the blob? In the instructions there it a caution note on step 5.
It says to cut the blob slowly and not disturb point 1 and 2.
Is point 1 refering to the connector for the temperature switch? And point 2 for the little resistor on the board?
In other words, i would like to lift the blob and release it from the board... is the blob doing anything in particular other than holding the cable...
Please advise

DO NOT lift the blob. Depending on how big your blob is (they have gotten smaller over time) it may be encasing components you can partially remove from the board.

Make small cuts in the blob and pull the cord until the cord is released. Snip, test, snip, test, snip, test.

Does yours look more like the one on the left or the right? (Or just post a pic of yours)

Older_vs_2020_power_supply_goo_gone.jpg

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#562 2 years ago

JMG

Pin_Fandango

Pin Fandango

Ottawa, ON

3y 82,550 4,363

Ready to rock and roll...

image (resized).jpg

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#563 2 years ago

JMG

Pin_Fandango

Pin Fandango

Ottawa, ON

3y 82,550 4,363

I see what you mean now.

I would recommend you add that to the instructions. I was scratching my head as to why you did not want to disturb the blob.

Now knowing what you meant, it makes a huge difference.

In my Stth that resistor is not covered by the blob... anyway, maybe I am weird... i just like to know the ‘why’.

Thanks for the help

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#564 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:
I see what you mean now.
I would recommend you add that to the instructions. I was scratching my head as to why you did not want to disturb the blob.
Now knowing what you meant, it makes a huge difference.
In my Stth that resistor is not covered by the blob... anyway, maybe I am weird... i just like to know the ‘why’.
Thanks for the help

I guess I can add a "why" to the "DO NOT CUT QUICKLY OR CARELESSLY HERE." in addition to a new "DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE BLOB OFF." Something like "there are components underneath that can be damaged by either action." There's just not a lot of space left to add more text. I'll figure something out.

Thanks for the feedback.

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#565 2 years ago

TIM

insx

Pinside member

Wickford

19y 47,300 414 13

Are there more kits on the way to MoP?

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1

#566 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from insx:
Are there more kits on the way to MoP?

We're just getting a restock order together now. They're getting more this time. They sold out of those pretty fast.

They'll also be carrying the colordmd gaskets starting with this next order.

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#567 2 years ago

TIM

insx

Pinside member

Wickford

19y 47,300 414 13

This fan seems to move the same amount of air with less current (than the obsolete one in the first post).

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B65FT8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_SBX1J170FRH17RPKNANX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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#568 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from insx:
This fan seems to move the same amount of air with less current (than the obsolete one in the first post).
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B65FT8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_SBX1J170FRH17RPKNANX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That would do the trick, but you'd need to splice in the wire from the existing fan or get a naked connector and two pins to add to it so you can plug it in because that fan comes naked, just two wire leads. You'd also need to source a couple thread-cutting screws for it, too since the holes are too big to use the stock screws from the factory power supply fan to attach it to the case.

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#569 2 years ago

TIM

insx

Pinside member

Wickford

19y 47,300 414 13

It turns out that the cables that came with a USB joystick encoder had the correct connector so I was able to splice in one of those and leave my original fan intact. I also had a couple of the thread cutting screws in my random small screws box. Job done. I did have an initial issue where I had tightened the screws too much and the fan was noisy until I loosened them slightly.

IMG_20210712_201645 (resized).jpg

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#570 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from insx:
It turns out that the cables that came with a USB joystick encoder had the correct connector so I was able to splice in one of those and leave my original fan intact. I also had a couple of the thread cutting screws in my random small screws box. Job done. I did have an initial issue where I had tightened the screws too much and the fan was noisy until I loosened them slightly.[quoted image]

That's pretty much exactly how I did it when I was initially testing fans a few years ago to find the right one, only I cut the connector off the stock fan to get the connector and some wire to splice in.

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#571 2 years ago

ENV

Enver

Pinside member

Berlin

10y 29,600 25 23

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Heh. Gomez wasn't kidding when he said the power budget on Spike is so tight adding a single mod runs the risk of killing it.

I was just wondering now if all that's needed is a commercial 48V output power supply, why not use this https://www.amazon.de/dp/B06XFYNWFT/ -- even the same OEM, passively cooled. Fixed. And the extra in price, well, we've already been charged for this. But heck, add another 80 bucks to the BOM if you like, Stern. Customers pay any price these days anyway.

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#572 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Enver:
I was just wondering now if all that's needed is a commercial 48V output power supply, why not use this amazon.com link » -- even the same OEM, passively cooled. Fixed. And the extra in price, well, we've already been charged for this. But heck, add another 80 bucks to the BOM if you like, Stern. Customers pay any price these days anyway.

The right idea, but that one's overkill. You can get a decent meanwell brand dual 5v/12v one for about $25-30 from that would handle mods. But Stern's thing is they don't want end users modding their machines where electricity is involved. Pretty sure it's a liability thing.

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#573 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from insx:
Are there more kits on the way to MoP?

MoP should have stock now. They also have GnR Tibetan Breeze kits and airball shields now, too.

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#574 2 years ago

DAN

Gogdog

Pinside member

Eagle, ID

5y 53,050 680 7

I wanted to say that if you wanted to keep the original fan intact by not cutting off its connector, its really cheap to get jst 2.5 2pin connectors from aliexpress that you splice/solder on. You can get 50 prewired connectors for $3.50. While you are at it, get jst 2.0 connectors too since those are fairly common.

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#575 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Gogdog:
I wanted to say that if you wanted to keep the original fan intact by not cutting off its connector, its really cheap to get jst 2.5 2pin connectors from aliexpress that you splice/solder on. You can get 50 prewired connectors for $3.50. While you are at it, get jst 2.0 connectors too since those are fairly common.

The OP had links to the crimp-on connector and XPH-2 housing with Digikey, but I didn't realize Digikey was OOS. Updated the OP with new links that are in stock as of right now. Like 10 cents for the housing and 3 cents for the crimp connector if you're going the DIY route.

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#576 2 years ago

F_W

Gnassel

Pinside member

Schladen

10y 51,550 215 4 12

Quoted from PinHead50:
I plan on doing the pinmonk after the warranty is up but for now i went with this method. My buddy printed me the adapter that cost 40 cents and ordered this fan from amazon. One screw and a quick adjustment on the plug and my fan has not kicked on since. plugged it on the 12v (cn12 i believe) plug on the board below the power supply.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427874 - part i used
amazon.com link » - fan i used
[quoted image]

Hi, do you share your 3D model?

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#577 2 years ago

PSG

PeterG

Pinside member

8y 88,300 2,144 65

Quoted from Gnassel:
Hi, do you share your 3D model?

The thingiverse link is there. That is the part to print. I also went this way on my Mando. Work great!

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#578 2 years ago

MSC

D-Gottlieb

Pinside member

8y 55,800 1,986

I went this way with Starwars two years ago and used a quiet Noctua fan and wired it always on. Can't hear it and it works great.

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#579 2 years ago

F_W

Gnassel

Pinside member

Schladen

10y 51,550 215 4 12

I have installed an adapter from 40mm to 60mm (my 1st post 80mm That was a mistake). The 3D model I have from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427874

On top sits a 12V 80mm fan. I connected it with an old USB cable to a USB port. There it is powered with 5V. Fan is constantly on, but through the 5V it is not to hear. The other fan did not turn on until today. How it looks in the summer I can not say yet.

Quiet
Simple
Warranty kept
Bildschirmfoto 2021-12-23 um 06.08.04 (resized).jpg

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#580 2 years ago

MSC

D-Gottlieb

Pinside member

8y 55,800 1,986

That looks like a 60 mm fan.

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#581 2 years ago

F_W

Gnassel

Pinside member

Schladen

10y 51,550 215 4 12

Your are right!!! Thanks!!!
my fault...
The first time I ordered a fan, I made the same mistake and bought an 80mm.

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#582 2 years ago

PSG

PeterG

Pinside member

8y 88,300 2,144 65

I did exact the same on Mando. 5 minute install (not included print time). Also used a 60mm 5v fan with USB. I power everything via a seperate powerstrip, including USB ports. Placed directly after the switch. So never draw power from any boards. I use that for speakerlight kits, mods etc.

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#583 2 years ago

PSW

Psw757

Pinside+ Frequent

11y 117K 7,226 13 48 4

These fans pretty easy to install? Anyone have any issues or failures?

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1

#584 2 years ago

JSN

jfesler

Pinside member

9y 92,050 1,793 18 11

Mostly easy for Spike. Power supply is in the head.
Getting the power supply out of a Spooky game is painful, and back in doubly so. The power supply is all_ the way back/bottom of the cabinet.

Actual fan install is pretty straight forward, and nothing but successes for me for ~10 spikes and 3 spookies.

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1

#585 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Psw757:
These fans pretty easy to install? Anyone have any issues or failures?

I've sold a LOT of the quiet fan kits in the last few years and know of zero installation failures. Even people that expressed apprehension before doing it were successful and went on to do more. The instructions are very detailed and hold your hand through the process (I added a sample of the front side of the instructions below).

The Spike Meanwell power supplies are easier than the Spooky ones, but that's just because spooky made getting the power supply out not-user-friendly and there are a few more steps to get the fan out once you have it open. Neither is what I would call difficult.

instruction-sample (resized).jpg

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#586 2 years ago

PSW

Psw757

Pinside+ Frequent

11y 117K 7,226 13 48 4

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
I've sold a LOT of the quiet fan kits in the last few years and know of zero installation failures. Even people that expressed apprehension before doing it were successful and went on to do more. The instructions are very detailed and hold your hand through the process (I added a sample of the front side of the instructions below).
The Spike Meanwell power supplies are easier than the Spooky ones, but that's just because spooky made getting the power supply out not-user-friendly and there are a few more steps to get the fan out once you have it open. Neither is what I would call difficult.
[quoted image]

Ok thanks, I’d only be doing 6 spike machines to quiet things down a bit.

They don’t run hotter putting off more heat than stock do they?

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#587 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Psw757:
Ok thanks, I’d only be doing 6 spike machines to quiet things down a bit.

It will quiet things down a LOT if you're doing 6.

Quoted from Psw757:
They don’t run hotter putting off more heat than stock do they?

No, that's not the way the fans in meanwell power supplies work. They have a thermal sensor that trips when it hits 122F inside the power supply casing. That turns on the fan, which pulls air through until the temperature falls to 104F, when it shuts off. The power supply is designed to stay between 104F and 122F. My kit has a lower airflow rate (due to lower RPM so it's quieter), but all that means is when it turns on, it runs a little longer before it hits 104F and turns off again. If the stock fan or my fan fails, the power supply begins throttling power output to manage temps that way, but has a built-in failsafe that shuts it down if the internal temp hits 158F. I've never heard of one of these failing. The mean time between failure of the fan in my kit is 70,000 hours of use.

Here's a graph for the most common Spike power supply (older ones like Game of Thrones Pro and Ghostbusters Pro had a different one with lower output) that shows where the fans operate, where the failsafe throttling can happen and where the shutoff happens if things go horribly wrong...

RSP 500-48_temp_graph (resized).jpg

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#588 2 years ago

JAM

NPO

Pinside member

12y 133K 7,652 3 17

I just now installed one of these into my JP Pro as the stock fan sounded like I was waiting for a small private plane to leave the runway at my local airport.

PinMonk 's insructions are super clear and helpful. When moving the stock fans wire harness out of "the goop", I used an extended pair of small needle nose pliers (orange handled ones at HF) to pull on the goo while using my free hand to guide the wire harness through and around the goo. Super simple with no risk of damaging on board components to the power supply.

If you do this and reinstall in a "cold game" (game has sat overnight without being played) - be prepared to wait for the test moment a solid 35-40 minutes. I had a torn piece of a tissue on the box, and I waited easily that long with my living room at 70 degrees. Won't deny, I was starting to get a tiny bit nervous, but the product activated and did exactly as described. It vented the power supply box and turned off once the job was complete.

GREAT product - highly recommend!

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1

#589 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from NPO:
If you do this and reinstall in a "cold game" (game has sat overnight without being played) - be prepared to wait for the test moment a solid 35-40 minutes. I had a torn piece of a tissue on the box, and I waited easily that long with my living room at 70 degrees. Won't deny, I was starting to get a tiny bit nervous, but the product activated and did exactly as described. It vented the power supply box and turned off once the job was complete.
GREAT product - highly recommend!

Yeah in a cool room or a garage in the winter months where the ambient temp is lower, it can take a long time for that fan to come on to verify it works and everything's working right after installation, but it's an absolutely necessary step.

Thanks for the writeup!

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#590 2 years ago

MSC

D-Gottlieb

Pinside member

8y 55,800 1,986

I am of the constant on theory of fan operation. While the thermally regulated fan is one solution, the up and down temperature swings are not the best for the electronics in the power supply. A consistent temp is better. However, the fan included with the power supply is way too loud for continuous operation. The one that PinMonk provides is fine but I don't know the voltage it is rated for. I took a Noctua 12 volt silent fan and wired it to the accessory connector.

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#591 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from D-Gottlieb:
The one that PinMonk provides is fine but I don't know the voltage it is rated for.

Picture and link to a digikey page with specs is in the OP. It's 12v DC.

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1

#592 2 years ago

RF9

Redfield0009

Inactive member

Plano, TX

5y 26,650 61 1

I just installed a pinwoofer speaker kit in my Ghostbusters today and now the fan isn't kicking on at all for my PSU. The silence is weird.

I did the install with everything powered off. How concerned should I be? Do I need to order a replacement PSU from Marco?

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2

#593 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Redfield0009:
I just installed a pinwoofer speaker kit in my Ghostbusters today and now the fan isn't kicking on at all for my PSU. The silence is weird.
I did the install with everything powered off. How concerned should I be? Do I need to order a replacement PSU from Marco?

Which fan? Large front mounted one, or small top mounted one for the RSP-500-48. I don't know how the pinwoofer would affect the power supply fan negatively, but that's interesting...

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1

#594 2 years ago

RF9

Redfield0009

Inactive member

Plano, TX

5y 26,650 61 1

OP
Quoted from PinMonk:
Which fan? Large front mounted one, or small top mounted one for the RSP-500-48. I don't know how the pinwoofer would affect the power supply fan negatively, but that's interesting...

It's the small top mounted one. I don't know how it could affect the power supply either. It's weird. Maybe it's just a coincidence.

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#595 2 years ago

WUF

PinWoofer

Kuna, ID

5y 76,050 758

We've got an original MeanWell SP-320-48 in our PS library that came out of a KISS (Spike platform, same as GB). It was donated by a local guy, and I've got a vague recollection that he upgraded it to something better in response to a service bulletin from the manufacturer. I cannot find this service bulletin so any advice out there to assist Redfield0009 would be helpful.

Considering that everything is working this is likely something with the PS and easily remedied.

20220402_085312_resized_1 (resized).jpg

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1

#596 2 years ago

RF9

Redfield0009

Inactive member

Plano, TX

5y 26,650 61 1

Quoted from PinWoofer:
We've got an original MeanWell SP-320-48 in our PS library that came out of a KISS (Spike platform, same as GB). It was donated by a local guy, and I've got a vague recollection that he upgraded it to something better in response to a service bulletin from the manufacturer. I cannot find this service bulletin so any advice out there to assist Redfield0009 would be helpful.
Considering that everything is working this is likely something with the PS and easily remedied.
[quoted image]

Thanks! I'll continue to work with you via email. I do think it's just a coincidence that this happened after install.

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1

#597 2 years ago

AXE

YeOldPinPlayer

Inactive member

Unknown

8y 111K 6,454 4 12

Quoted from PinWoofer:
We've got an original MeanWell SP-320-48 in our PS library that came out of a KISS (Spike platform, same as GB). It was donated by a local guy, and I've got a vague recollection that he upgraded it to something better in response to a service bulletin from the manufacturer. I cannot find this service bulletin so any advice out there to assist Redfield0009 would be helpful.

Your photo looks like the early power supply https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/011-5001-00
that has been replaced by this one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/011-5003-00

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#598 2 years ago

WUF

PinWoofer

Kuna, ID

5y 76,050 758

Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:
Your photo looks like the early power supply https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/011-5001-00
that has been replaced by this one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/011-5003-00

YeOldPinPlayer - thanks!

More info - the guy who donated this SP-320-48 tells me he changed the supply out due to 5V logic resets, and he purchased one with a greater power rating from Stern.

Seems like Redfield0009 has something else going on.

If it were me, and on the off chance the fan motor is stuck in a dead spot, I'd spray some compressed (canned) air into the fan blades (at a right angle) to see if that breaks it loose. Do it when the game is on and when you might expect the fan to be running, and don't overdo it - just a brief puff of air to get the blades spinning. If it starts to work again it may be an indicator that fan is gummed up from age and use. Things like this happen to our 3D printers as the fans approach the end of their service life and I've been successful using this trick.

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#599 2 years ago

RF9

Redfield0009

Inactive member

Plano, TX

5y 26,650 61 1

PinWoofer I tried the can air and nothing, it didn't kick on. I took out the PSU and opened it up and there isn't any dust or scortch marks.

I'm wondering if I've gone crazy lol. I ordered a new PSU from Marco and I'll probably get a replacement fan as well just to do more testing.

I read this a few posts above " If the stock fan or my fan fails, the power supply begins throttling power output to manage temps that way, but has a built-in failsafe that shuts it down if the internal temp hits 158F"

I'm wondering if the PSU just isn't getting as hot now? There is a section of coils on the left side of the back box that prior to the pinwoofer install had a harness going to the speakers and DMD, but now it's no longer in use because of the pinwoofer kit and Color DMD I installed. Maybe that had an effect?

I'm going to leave it on for the rest of the day and see what happens. This thing sounded like a vacuum cleaner before, so this is just weird.

I appreciate all the help and support you've given me.

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#600 2 years ago

OP

VIC

PinMonk

Pin Monk

9y 183K 30,175 16

Quoted from Redfield0009:
I'm wondering if the PSU just isn't getting as hot now?

Possible. It's temperature driven to turn the fan on and off.

If this is the crappy stock NMB fan, it's probably about time for it to fail anyway.

I'd just get one of these quiet fan kits before I replaced the whole power supply. Much less expensive and it's more likely the fan failed than the power supply.

By PinMonk

6 years ago

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