(Topic ID: 215113)

Fixing/Replacing Stern Spike & Spooky noisy PS fans (plugnplay shipping now)

By PinMonk

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 24 days ago by PeterG
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    There are 582 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 12.
    #551 8 months ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Spec-wise you should be fine, but the connector on that fan is too thick/large to plug into the receptacle in the power supply (if it is the same as in the picture), so you will have to cut and splice in a new one or crimp in new pins and a smaller compatible connector.
    Another path you can take if you have some resistors and shrink wrap on hand is to put a resistor on the red lead of the stock fan to reduce the voltage, which will slow the revolutions of the fan blade and should reduce the noise. It's a hassle to figure out the ideal resistor to use to get the best result, but the stock fan has about twice the CFM of the fan in the plug and play kit I sell (and the one recommended in the OP), so you have a lot of overhead to work with if you want to play around and spend the least amount of money possible (i.e. you have more spare time than money). At some point the fan will not run if the voltage is too low, so there's a fine line to walk. If you go this route, please share your result!

    Years ago, the PC builders were making kits to reduce their 12V fans to 7v to reduce noise. FRYS here in California used to sell the cable. It was a simple 1/2Watt resistor. If I remember my math, "R=E/I" where the voltage you want to drop is 5volts, and the fan spec says it consumes .13Amps. So doing that math yields 38ohms, which is very close to a stock 39ohm part. Try putting a 39ohm, 1/2watt carbon resistor in the red power line to the existing cable....

    #552 8 months ago
    Quoted from Markharris2000:

    Years ago, the PC builders were making kits to reduce their 12V fans to 7v to reduce noise. FRYS here in California used to sell the cable. It was a simple 1/2Watt resistor. If I remember my math, "R=E/I" where the voltage you want to drop is 5volts, and the fan spec says it consumes .13Amps. So doing that math yields 38ohms, which is very close to a stock 39ohm part. Try putting a 39ohm, 1/2watt carbon resistor in the red power line to the existing cable....

    The only problem is some of these fans will not even start if the voltage is too low, so it can take some experimentation to find the threshold.

    Note that I do not know if the Stock stern fan is much quieter when running slower because it's a crappy ball bearing fan, but if someone tries it, it will be interesting to see how much quieter it can get and what the cutoff is for the voltage where the fan refuses to start.

    #553 8 months ago

    I honestly do not have any interest in experimenting with that, I would end up second guessing my work and will not really know how fast the fan is going or needs to be so I prefer to have some sort of certainty, I do appreciate the tips and would probably do it if this was a part that was difficult to find or if this was an older game...

    With that said, I spent some time trying to source the parts listed in post #1, I did find the fan on Digikey but cannot find the connector and terminals and I do not want to splice the cable because I am OCD and --- insert meme 'nobody will know - no one's gonna know---

    so I guess I will pick up pinmonk's fan.

    I truly wanted to roll my one to get that sense of pride in knowing I had done it myself, I also have lots of cable and EVERY other molex connector under the sun, but not this JST... but can't spend any more time searching for a 0.10 cents connector.

    #554 8 months ago
    Quoted from Markharris2000:

    Years ago, the PC builders were making kits to reduce their 12V fans to 7v to reduce noise. FRYS here in California used to sell the cable. It was a simple 1/2Watt resistor. If I remember my math, "R=E/I" where the voltage you want to drop is 5volts, and the fan spec says it consumes .13Amps. So doing that math yields 38ohms, which is very close to a stock 39ohm part. Try putting a 39ohm, 1/2watt carbon resistor in the red power line to the existing cable....

    This is true of older two wire fans (I have no idea what fans are used in these supplies as I haven't looked) BUT modern fans have a feedback sensor and unless the motor is turning at the correct speed they often won't operate. Some might but it couldn't be guaranteed.

    #555 8 months ago
    Quoted from pins4u:

    This is true of older two wire fans (I have no idea what fans are used in these supplies as I haven't looked) BUT modern fans have a feedback sensor and unless the motor is turning at the correct speed they often won't operate. Some might but it couldn't be guaranteed.

    Good point. Anyone know if the FAN inside the factory Power Supply is a three-wire?

    #556 8 months ago
    Quoted from Markharris2000:

    Good point. Anyone know if the FAN inside the factory Power Supply is a three-wire?

    The Stern meanwell power supply stock fan is pictured in the OP. It's a 2 wire. Although there is a 3rd pad on the circuit board, so it may have a 3 wire option, but it's not something you can easily add yourself because it's covered in a mass of silicone goop that's a pain to remove.

    Also, as an interesting aside, you can see why the stock fan is so crappy when you look at the blades. They're not very wide at all, about 30-40% narrower than the Sunon fans I use, so they have to spin a LOT faster to even drive the same airflow, and even at a slower speed that would make them much noisier than the Sunons.

    #557 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I honestly do not have any interest in experimenting with that, I would end up second guessing my work and will not really know how fast the fan is going or needs to be so I prefer to have some sort of certainty, I do appreciate the tips and would probably do it if this was a part that was difficult to find or if this was an older game...
    With that said, I spent some time trying to source the parts listed in post #1, I did find the fan on Digikey but cannot find the connector and terminals and I do not want to splice the cable because I am OCD and --- insert meme 'nobody will know - no one's gonna know---
    so I guess I will pick up pinmonk's fan.
    I truly wanted to roll my one to get that sense of pride in knowing I had done it myself, I also have lots of cable and EVERY other molex connector under the sun, but not this JST... but can't spend any more time searching for a 0.10 cents connector.

    Yeah, that's always the trade. Do you want to pay in time (DIY, with all that entails) or money (premade, little actual time investment). There's always a cost. The connectors that have gone NLA since my original post in the OP are still out there worldwide, but they're a pain to track down now and may have minimum purchase requirements.

    #558 8 months ago

    I got your fan sold locally. Will install later tonight.

    #559 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I got your fan sold locally. Will install later tonight.

    You should notice an improvement immediately.

    #560 8 months ago

    Ok PinMonk give me hand

    What is the issue with the blob? In the instructions there it a caution note on step 5.
    It says to cut the blob slowly and not disturb point 1 and 2.

    Is point 1 refering to the connector for the temperature switch? And point 2 for the little resistor on the board?

    In other words, i would like to lift the blob and release it from the board... is the blob doing anything in particular other than holding the cable...

    Please advise

    #561 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    Ok PinMonk give me hand
    What is the issue with the blob? In the instructions there it a caution note on step 5.
    It says to cut the blob slowly and not disturb point 1 and 2.
    Is point 1 refering to the connector for the temperature switch? And point 2 for the little resistor on the board?
    In other words, i would like to lift the blob and release it from the board... is the blob doing anything in particular other than holding the cable...
    Please advise

    DO NOT lift the blob. Depending on how big your blob is (they have gotten smaller over time) it may be encasing components you can partially remove from the board.

    Make small cuts in the blob and pull the cord until the cord is released. Snip, test, snip, test, snip, test.

    Does yours look more like the one on the left or the right? (Or just post a pic of yours)

    Older_vs_2020_power_supply_goo_gone.jpg

    #562 8 months ago

    Ready to rock and roll...

    image (resized).jpg
    #563 8 months ago

    I see what you mean now.

    I would recommend you add that to the instructions. I was scratching my head as to why you did not want to disturb the blob.

    Now knowing what you meant, it makes a huge difference.

    In my Stth that resistor is not covered by the blob... anyway, maybe I am weird... i just like to know the ‘why’.

    Thanks for the help

    #564 8 months ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I see what you mean now.
    I would recommend you add that to the instructions. I was scratching my head as to why you did not want to disturb the blob.
    Now knowing what you meant, it makes a huge difference.
    In my Stth that resistor is not covered by the blob... anyway, maybe I am weird... i just like to know the ‘why’.
    Thanks for the help

    I guess I can add a "why" to the "DO NOT CUT QUICKLY OR CARELESSLY HERE." in addition to a new "DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE BLOB OFF." Something like "there are components underneath that can be damaged by either action." There's just not a lot of space left to add more text. I'll figure something out.

    Thanks for the feedback.

    1 month later
    #565 6 months ago

    Are there more kits on the way to MoP?

    #566 6 months ago
    Quoted from insx:

    Are there more kits on the way to MoP?

    We're just getting a restock order together now. They're getting more this time. They sold out of those pretty fast.

    They'll also be carrying the colordmd gaskets starting with this next order.

    #567 6 months ago

    This fan seems to move the same amount of air with less current (than the obsolete one in the first post).

    https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B65FT8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_SBX1J170FRH17RPKNANX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    #568 6 months ago
    Quoted from insx:

    This fan seems to move the same amount of air with less current (than the obsolete one in the first post).
    https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B65FT8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_SBX1J170FRH17RPKNANX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    That would do the trick, but you'd need to splice in the wire from the existing fan or get a naked connector and two pins to add to it so you can plug it in because that fan comes naked, just two wire leads. You'd also need to source a couple thread-cutting screws for it, too since the holes are too big to use the stock screws from the factory power supply fan to attach it to the case.

    #569 6 months ago

    It turns out that the cables that came with a USB joystick encoder had the correct connector so I was able to splice in one of those and leave my original fan intact. I also had a couple of the thread cutting screws in my random small screws box. Job done. I did have an initial issue where I had tightened the screws too much and the fan was noisy until I loosened them slightly.

    IMG_20210712_201645 (resized).jpg
    #570 6 months ago
    Quoted from insx:

    It turns out that the cables that came with a USB joystick encoder had the correct connector so I was able to splice in one of those and leave my original fan intact. I also had a couple of the thread cutting screws in my random small screws box. Job done. I did have an initial issue where I had tightened the screws too much and the fan was noisy until I loosened them slightly.[quoted image]

    That's pretty much exactly how I did it when I was initially testing fans a few years ago to find the right one, only I cut the connector off the stock fan to get the connector and some wire to splice in.

    3 months later
    #571 86 days ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Heh. Gomez wasn't kidding when he said the power budget on Spike is so tight adding a single mod runs the risk of killing it.

    I was just wondering now if all that's needed is a commercial 48V output power supply, why not use this amazon.com link » -- even the same OEM, passively cooled. Fixed. And the extra in price, well, we've already been charged for this. But heck, add another 80 bucks to the BOM if you like, Stern. Customers pay any price these days anyway.

    #572 86 days ago
    Quoted from Enver:

    I was just wondering now if all that's needed is a commercial 48V output power supply, why not use this amazon.com link » -- even the same OEM, passively cooled. Fixed. And the extra in price, well, we've already been charged for this. But heck, add another 80 bucks to the BOM if you like, Stern. Customers pay any price these days anyway.

    The right idea, but that one's overkill. You can get a decent meanwell brand dual 5v/12v one for about $25-30 from that would handle mods. But Stern's thing is they don't want end users modding their machines where electricity is involved. Pretty sure it's a liability thing.

    #573 86 days ago
    Quoted from insx:

    Are there more kits on the way to MoP?

    MoP should have stock now. They also have GnR Tibetan Breeze kits and airball shields now, too.

    3 weeks later
    #574 61 days ago

    I wanted to say that if you wanted to keep the original fan intact by not cutting off its connector, its really cheap to get jst 2.5 2pin connectors from aliexpress that you splice/solder on. You can get 50 prewired connectors for $3.50. While you are at it, get jst 2.0 connectors too since those are fairly common.

    #575 61 days ago
    Quoted from Gogdog:

    I wanted to say that if you wanted to keep the original fan intact by not cutting off its connector, its really cheap to get jst 2.5 2pin connectors from aliexpress that you splice/solder on. You can get 50 prewired connectors for $3.50. While you are at it, get jst 2.0 connectors too since those are fairly common.

    The OP had links to the crimp-on connector and XPH-2 housing with Digikey, but I didn't realize Digikey was OOS. Updated the OP with new links that are in stock as of right now. Like 10 cents for the housing and 3 cents for the crimp connector if you're going the DIY route.

    1 month later
    #576 28 days ago
    Quoted from PinHead50:

    I plan on doing the pinmonk after the warranty is up but for now i went with this method. My buddy printed me the adapter that cost 40 cents and ordered this fan from amazon. One screw and a quick adjustment on the plug and my fan has not kicked on since. plugged it on the 12v (cn12 i believe) plug on the board below the power supply.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427874 - part i used
    amazon.com link » - fan i used
    [quoted image]

    Hi, do you share your 3D model?

    #577 27 days ago
    Quoted from Gnassel:

    Hi, do you share your 3D model?

    The thingiverse link is there. That is the part to print. I also went this way on my Mando. Work great!

    #578 27 days ago

    I went this way with Starwars two years ago and used a quiet Noctua fan and wired it always on. Can't hear it and it works great.

    #579 25 days ago

    I have installed an adapter from 40mm to 60mm (my 1st post 80mm That was a mistake). The 3D model I have from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427874

    On top sits a 12V 80mm fan. I connected it with an old USB cable to a USB port. There it is powered with 5V. Fan is constantly on, but through the 5V it is not to hear. The other fan did not turn on until today. How it looks in the summer I can not say yet.

    Quiet
    Simple
    Warranty kept
    Bildschirmfoto 2021-12-23 um 06.08.04 (resized).jpg

    #580 24 days ago

    That looks like a 60 mm fan.

    #581 24 days ago

    Your are right!!! Thanks!!!
    my fault...
    The first time I ordered a fan, I made the same mistake and bought an 80mm.

    #582 24 days ago

    I did exact the same on Mando. 5 minute install (not included print time). Also used a 60mm 5v fan with USB. I power everything via a seperate powerstrip, including USB ports. Placed directly after the switch. So never draw power from any boards. I use that for speakerlight kits, mods etc.

    There are 582 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 12.

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