(Topic ID: 215113)

Fixing/Replacing Stern Spike & Spooky noisy PS fans (plugnplay shipping now)

By PinMonk

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 71 days ago by PinMonk
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    There are 640 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 13.
    #501 3 years ago
    Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

    Preach!! Could not be in a worse location ... and no molex connectors to connect/disconnect, just hard wired to the PS.

    Yeah, I have no idea at all why those back connectors to the cabinet were not on molex connectors in the Spooky pins. SUCH a pain to access with limited visibility.

    #502 3 years ago

    I've got two on the way! I hope the yak is faster than USPS of late.

    #503 3 years ago
    Quoted from Karl_Hungus:

    I've got two on the way! I hope the yak is faster than USPS of late.

    USPS is unbelievably uneven now. Literally the worst by far in my lifetime. Cross country? Usually 3 days, but not always. but I have a few packages within California - going from N CA to LA that should be 2 days that are taking 5-6 days. Had a package coming from Montana that is 10 days and counting. The new postmaster needs to be fired immediately before it gets worse. This is insanity.

    #504 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Yeah, it'd be tough with the way it's covering the sticker. But hey, by using an x-acto to slice it on the seam at least you're not voiding the warranty - it says "void if REMOVED." You're not removing it.
    Thanks for posting the pic. At least this shows that Stern is AWARE that their fans suck so bad that people are replacing them to get some peace and quiet. Next step? Hopefully they do what I've been begging them to for like 2 years - have meanwell ship the power supplies with the Sunon quiet fan I sell. Their engineering said they'd do it if asked.

    The Federal Trade Commission put six companies on notice in 2018, telling them in a warning letter that their warranty practices violate federal law. If you buy a car with a warranty, take it a repair shop to fix it, then have to return the car to the manufacturer, the car company isn’t legally allowed to deny the return because you took your car to another shop. The same is true of any consumer device that costs more than $15, though many manufacturers want you to think otherwise.

    https://www.techdirt.com/articles/20180410/17590439606/ftc-suddenly-remembers-warranty-void-if-removed-stickers-are-illegal-sends-out-stern-letters-to-manufacturers.shtml

    #505 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    USPS is unbelievably uneven now. Literally the worst by far in my lifetime. Cross country? Usually 3 days, but not always. but I have a few packages going from N CA to LA that should be 2 days that are taking 5-6 days. Had a package coming from Montana that is 10 days and counting. The new postmaster needs to be fired immediately before it gets worse. This is insanity.

    I can relate. Ordered some Gorgar stickers and coin door plastics from a Pinside store 11 days ago. The person shipped them 9 days ago and still nothing. Seems stuck in New Jersey right now. And this was only coming from TX to NY!

    Agreed on the new postmaster...

    #506 3 years ago

    Ben Franklin did a better job and mail was carried by hand.

    #507 3 years ago

    Hi there PinMonk!
    I am so HAPPY i found your topic! I own a Spooky TNA and the fan is ridiculously loud...

    I definitely want to go the DIY way, because I am fearless and innocent. (and because of shipping to France being very expensive theses nowadays)

    So, to be perfectly clear what i need is:

    - 2 sockets SXH-001T-P0.6
    - 1 connector XHP-2
    - 1 Sunon Fan HA60251V4-1000U-A99
    - some wires: which ref and which length?
    - shrink tubing
    - 4 thread cutting screws: which ref?

    Thanx a lot for your kind help.

    #508 3 years ago
    Quoted from BeeZooNours:

    Hi there PinMonk!
    I am so HAPPY i found your topic! I own a Spooky TNA and the fan is ridiculously loud...
    I definitely want to go the DIY way, because I am fearless and innocent. (and because of shipping to France being very expensive theses nowadays)
    So, to be perfectly clear what i need is:
    - 2 sockets SXH-001T-P0.6
    - 1 connector XHP-2
    - 1 Sunon Fan HA60251V4-1000U-A99
    - some wires: which ref and which length?
    - shrink tubing
    - 4 thread cutting screws: which ref?
    Thanx a lot for your kind help.

    If you're rolling your own, I'd use 24awg wire, cut to length and then put the connectors on. The stock wires are usually too short and too thin for Spooky meanwell power supplies because of the long path from the fan to the connector.
    You don't need thread cutting screws for spooky, only Stern. The spooky screws can be reused.

    Ministry of Pinball has both my spooky and stern fan kits now and some other select items from my pinmonk.com store. Shipping to France should not be that bad from within Europe, and it should arrive quickly.

    https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spooky/multimorphic%20plug%20n%20play%20quiet%20fan%20kit.html

    #509 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    If you're rolling your own, I'd use 24awg wire, cut to length and then put the connectors on. The stock wires are usually too short and too thin for Spooky meanwell power supplies because of the long path from the fan to the connector.
    You don't need thread cutting screws for spooky, only Stern. The spooky screws can be reused.
    Ministry of Pinball has both my spooky and stern fan kits now and some other select items from my pinmonk.com store. Shipping to France should not be that bad from within Europe, and it should arrive quickly.
    https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spooky/multimorphic%20plug%20n%20play%20quiet%20fan%20kit.html

    Thanx a lot!
    I will have a sneak peak at Ministry website and then decide.

    #510 3 years ago

    Just wanted to take a second to say this product and EVERYTHING I have received from Pin Monk has been great. He also is great at communicating with customers and as shown in this thread, taking feedback and incorporating it. Highly recommended!

    #511 3 years ago

    Same here, way cheaper to go DIY, but I didn't care to save 20-30 bucks on a fan that will burn out my system if not done properly. PinMonk removed that uncertainty in my case, clear instructions and it works.

    #512 3 years ago
    Quoted from Karl_Hungus:

    Just wanted to take a second to say this product and EVERYTHING I have received from Pin Monk has been great. He also is great at communicating with customers and as shown in this thread, taking feedback and incorporating it. Highly recommended!

    Thanks for the compliments!

    Quoted from Saltimbanco:

    Same here, way cheaper to go DIY, but I didn't care to save 20-30 bucks on a fan that will burn out my system if not done properly. PinMonk removed that uncertainty in my case, clear instructions and it works.

    I left the DIY origins of this thread here up for people that want to roll their own, but once you get the parts and pay for shipping, it's really not that much different than the premade ones I have now for US customers. Europe is another matter, which is why I linked up with Ministry of Pinball to get some of the more popular pinmonk.com items closer to European pinheads to save shipping cost and time.

    And the instructions are good because I revised them a few times before release after beta release feedback and a few times after release to clarify some parts people were questioning. They definitely benefited from user feedback for which I'm very grateful. I also *hate* instructions with bad photos, which is why all the fan kits and the 3D Anubis kit have drawn illustrations - clarity.

    1 month later
    #513 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Thanks for sharing your install experience.
    It would be SOOOOO much easier if Spooky just used a molex connector for each of the wire bunches from the factory. One connector for the wires in the back, and another for the ones in the front. They're keyed connectors, so no putting them on backwards, and disconnect/reconnect would take seconds. It'd be a snap, like removing the Spike power supply is.
    For those following along, THIS is the block on the back of Spooky SE-600-48 power supplies in the cabinet where the 120v wires come in that's inconvenient to see/get off due to how close it is to the back of the cabinet:
    [quoted image]
    Here it is after the wires are removed:
    [quoted image]
    The terminal blocks on the front are easy-access.

    How does the clear plastic come off guarding the 3 screws - just so I know in advance to keep it easier?

    #514 3 years ago
    Quoted from jonesjb:

    How does the clear plastic come off guarding the 3 screws - just so I know in advance to keep it easier?

    It's been a while since I've done it, and I don't have a Spooky here to look, but I think it either slides up or sideways and off or snaps on and off. I'd try sliding first.

    It really would be nice if Spooky re-engineered this to add molex connectors so you don't have to unscrew the wires from the power supply, but just plug and unplug like on Stern/JJP machines. This setup really is a failure of engineering.

    RZ_Power_Supply_Back.jpgRZ_Power_Supply_Back.jpg

    #515 3 years ago

    If I remember correctly it just slides off. I didn't unscrew wires, but it did make it harder because I couldn't take power supply out of cabinet.
    Added: But I did unscrew power supply from cabinet.

    #516 3 years ago

    I plan on doing the pinmonk after the warranty is up but for now i went with this method. My buddy printed me the adapter that cost 40 cents and ordered this fan from amazon. One screw and a quick adjustment on the plug and my fan has not kicked on since. plugged it on the 12v (cn12 i believe) plug on the board below the power supply.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427874 - part i used
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQMESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00 - fan i used

    IMG_7054 (resized).jpgIMG_7054 (resized).jpg

    #517 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    It's been a while since I've done it, and I don't have a Spooky here to look, but I think it either slides up and off or snaps on and off. I'd try sliding first.
    It really would be nice if Spooky re-engineered this to add molex connectors so you don't have to unscrew the wires from the power supply, but just plug and unplug like on Stern/JJP machines. This setup really is a failure of engineering.
    [quoted image]

    I am quite certain that the power supply manufacturer (I think its Mean-Well) could supply the unit in any Molex-style connector configuration that Stern wanted, IF Stern was willing to, 1) Pay Non-Recurring-Engineering (NRE) fees for the connector redesign and 2) Commit to a puchase of some quantity of those supplies. Keep in mind that the NRE fees would also need to cover the UL/CSA certifications as well, so these are non trivial.

    I suspect it was easier, faster and cheaper to simply use the existing connection block approach, since the supplier has already done the heavy lifting using that block.

    #518 3 years ago

    Finally installed mine a few weeks ago on BKSORLE. HUGE improvement!! Thanks, Pin Monk!!

    #519 3 years ago
    Quoted from Markharris2000:

    I am quite certain that the power supply manufacturer (I think its Mean-Well) could supply the unit in any Molex-style connector configuration that Stern wanted, IF Stern was willing to, 1) Pay Non-Recurring-Engineering (NRE) fees for the connector redesign and 2) Commit to a puchase of some quantity of those supplies. Keep in mind that the NRE fees would also need to cover the UL/CSA certifications as well, so these are non trivial.
    I suspect it was easier, faster and cheaper to simply use the existing connection block approach, since the supplier has already done the heavy lifting using that block.

    In Spooky's case, I meant keep the header block design, but make a short wiring harness with Molex connectors on the other end so you can plug/unplug the power supply easily. Wouldn't have required any interaction with Meanwell to accomplish this and would have been a MUCH better design. It's essentially what Stern does on theirs.

    #520 3 years ago
    Quoted from jonesjb:

    How does the clear plastic come off guarding the 3 screws - just so I know in advance to keep it easier?

    It slides off either left or right. Easy to get back on when you’re finished. Grooves at the top and bottom of the plastic housing capture the cover to hold it in place.

    #521 3 years ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    It slides off either left or right. Easy to get back on when you’re finished. Grooves at the top and bottom of the plastic housing capture the cover to hold it in place.

    Thanks for this, very helpful!

    #522 3 years ago

    Put the quiet fans in my Deadpool and Star Wars this weekend. I don't know how many of these I have done now, but it gets upgraded in every game I have had so far. Huge improvement. The deadpool in particular was very audible in the next room, but not any longer. If you are on the fence, just do it. Easy install, good price, big noise reduction.

    #523 3 years ago

    Just installed this in Rob Zombie. What a huge difference from stock. Before it sounded like a jet engine in the room. Now, it is audible but not noisy at all.

    1 week later
    #524 3 years ago

    Curious if you have kit compatible with American Pin.

    If no, I have a Fluke 289 w/temp probes and the logging software. I can pull some info to get the ball rolling.

    #525 3 years ago
    Quoted from RockfordReplay:

    Curious if you have kit compatible with American Pin.
    If no, I have a Fluke 289 w/temp probes and the logging software. I can pull some info to get the ball rolling.

    Are you talking about for their power supply or a cooling kit for their flipper coils? Are they still using two power supplies like Houdini with the switching power supply that was an add-on later? I haven't had one since Houdini...

    #526 3 years ago

    For the power supply. I'm confident that two fans are in there.

    I'm pulling the machine this weekend for cleaning and installing a knocker. I'll validate what's inside.

    #527 3 years ago

    Just the model number of the power supply is fine. I can pull the schematic once I know the model number.

    EDIT: Nevermind. It appears go be an RSP-750-48. At first glance it seems it can use 2 x SFAN-001 spike plug and play quiet fan kits, but there is mention of a "speed control function" which could be a third control line or the power supply undervolting the fans to slow them down. It also doesn't seem to have a thermal switch?? Do the fans run all the time like Spooky's meanwell power supply?

    #528 3 years ago

    The fan is throttling. Shortly after power-up the fan will provide mild flow without excessive sound. I find this supply housing had a loose/vibrating panel. The fan has yet to spin-up fully with the play-field glass and back-glass removed. When fully assembled, after a few games, the machine will produce high fan speeds. It eventually throttles down, but it maintains its position as the loudest machine in the room.

    Looking at the housing; I wonder if a large 120mm fan and matching panel could be added without changing the factory supply. I suppose the factory fan would restrict flow when its not spinning.

    #529 3 years ago
    Quoted from RockfordReplay:

    The fan is throttling. Shortly after power-up the fan will provide mild flow without excessive sound. I find this supply housing had a loose/vibrating panel. The fan has yet to spin-up fully with the play-field glass and back-glass removed. When fully assembled, after a few games, the machine will produce high fan speeds. It eventually throttles down, but it maintains its position as the loudest machine in the room.
    Looking at the housing; I wonder if a large 120mm fan and matching panel could be added without changing the factory supply. I suppose the factory fan would restrict flow when its not spinning.

    The main question is if the fans in the power supply are being speed controlled by regulating the voltage, or if they have a 3 wire connector, with one being used for speed control. But there's no way to know for sure without opening the power supply.

    You could probably put a 3D printed shroud on the back of the fan and connect that to a 120mm quiet fan and just force the air into the power supply. The stock fans would never come on if you kept the power supply cool enough with the big fan. It would be ugly, but it would work.

    #530 3 years ago

    The power supply is out; I see where the overall body used to mount the power supply assembly to the cab has the end-panels folded-up from its base material. The end panel ends are free to flap and vibrate from air-flow or other shakes/vibrations. It could get messy modifying the end-panel. I'll avoid those thought for now. I anticipate applying neoprene to dampen the shakes.

    An image-set of the fanned power supply unit;

    20201011_162947_resized.jpg20201011_162947_resized.jpg20201011_163010_resized.jpg20201011_163010_resized.jpg20201011_163906_resized.jpg20201011_163906_resized.jpg
    #531 3 years ago
    Quoted from RockfordReplay:

    The power supply is out; I see where the overall body used to mount the power supply assembly to the cab has the end-panels folded-up from its base material. The end panel ends are free to flap and vibrate from air-flow or other shakes/vibrations. It could get messy modifying the end-panel. I'll avoid those thought for now. I anticipate applying neoprene to dampen the shakes.
    An image-set of the fanned power supply unit;[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    That's definitely different than what they were using before. Going from Meanwell (which has a good reputation) RSP-750-48 with ~92% efficiency to some off-brand rando China power supply with ~80% efficiency is not a great move, but was probably inevitible given that the Meanwell they chose was $180 retail while this cheap box-ticker "it works for now" power supply is $68 retail. You can tell the cheapness/quality difference just by looking at how sparse the inside of the power supply is. This is the OEM for the rebranded power supply you have: http://www.gyuspw.com/product.php?cid=61 which you can tell because they both link to the same "best force" web site and have the same specs.

    So looking at the fan leads, if the fan speed is changing, they're doing it by undervolting it because there's no speed control wire. That's good news. But I'm not even sure they're doing that. It looks like there's just a thermal switch that turns the fan on and off at full speed when the temp raises/lowers.

    I can't read the model number on the fan to get a cross reference, the picture resolution is too low. Can you take a closer picture of just the fan label?

    #532 3 years ago

    I can probe the supply and log the temp during/after gameplay. I can graph the result and provide video to sync the data if needed.

    20201011_172355_resized.jpg20201011_172355_resized.jpg
    #533 3 years ago
    Quoted from RockfordReplay:

    I can probe the supply and log the temp during/after gameplay. I can graph the result and provide video to sync the data if needed.[quoted image]

    Can you take a close-up picture of the fan label so I can look up the specs?

    And wow, that is one weird franken-power cube they have going there. THREE switching power supplies in it? Seems like really bad design. A 48V and a single Dual 5v/12v combo should have been plenty.

    #534 3 years ago
    20201011_173805_resized.jpg20201011_173805_resized.jpg
    1 week later
    #535 3 years ago

    Game 3 is about to go quiet....man those fans are loud...LOL.

    #536 3 years ago
    Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

    Game 3 is about to go quiet....man those fans are loud...LOL.

    Must be talking about Stern's GoT

    #537 3 years ago

    Yeah, that's SUPER no-name. Even my contacts in China and Taiwan that deal in fans haven't heard of it.

    #538 3 years ago
    Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

    Game 3 is about to go quiet....man those fans are loud...LOL.

    Haha, yeah. Every time a new Stern machine comes in I tell myself I'll change the fan out eventually but no rush. Got Avengers, set it up and then the fan came on and I had to change it immediately. Totally obnoxious.

    #539 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Yeah, that's SUPER no-name. Even my contacts in China and Taiwan that deal in fans haven't heard of it.

    Thank you for this. I have some concern about the overall package; the power fan does not exhaust the overall housing. Coupled with the housing's vent locations it's retaining unnecessary heat.

    A 2nd issue for those with shaker motors; the housing's loose panel-flaps may vibrate against its cover (this extra sound led me to assume a 2nd fan). Several times I looked under the playfield thinking, something gotta' be loose down here.

    I think about obtaining a more efficient supply. I simply want to play the game, but something needs to change.

    #540 3 years ago

    I had ordered the fan a while back waiting for my R & M to arrive. Just changed it out a couple days ago. The difference is amazing. Pain in the neck to get the power supply out of the cabinet but easy peasy once it's out. Highly recommend this fan.

    #541 3 years ago
    Quoted from RockfordReplay:

    Thank you for this. I have some concern about the overall package; the power fan does not exhaust the overall housing. Coupled with the housing's vent locations it's retaining unnecessary heat.
    A 2nd issue for those with shaker motors; the housing's loose panel-flaps may vibrate against its cover (this extra sound led me to assume a 2nd fan). Several times I looked under the playfield thinking, something gotta' be loose down here.
    I think about obtaining a more efficient supply. I simply want to play the game, but something needs to change.

    The Meanwell RSP-750-48 American Pinball chose initially is overkill and crazy expensive, which is likely why they probably did a 180 and went with this no-name piece of crap power supply later that literally costs more than $100 less and SAYS it's 50w more (but that's likely a lie in the real world). Literally. That both shows how crazy the meanwell they chose was and how cheap this one is.

    The RSP-750-48 would definitely need quieter fans since it has TWO loud fans (NMB 1608VL-04W-B69) that output up to 38dB when on at max together (and draw a crazy 2.6A when both are on!) vs only 15.8dB for two of the quiet fans from my kit, but the complicating factor is that unlike the other meanwells it has a speed control lead. So it would probably be a situation where you just put in two quiet always-on fans in there and just let then run all the time since you can't hear them. And that would be good anyway because at max, the CFM (air flow) is almost exactly half the two fans at max speed.

    Here's a pic of the insides of the robust RSP-750-48. Compare this to the sparse electronics in the piece of crap they went with purely for cost reasons later that you have now:
    RSP-750-48-inside (resized).jpgRSP-750-48-inside (resized).jpg

    It would require some more investigation, but you probably can get away with a Meanwell SE-600-48 like is in the Spooky machines and is also kind of overkill. That is, IF it would fit in that enclosure. Those can be had for like $75 and are WAY better than that VELIKA thing. I don't think AP really needs 750 or 800W of power (and the Velika isn't delivering 800 anyway, because its efficiency is crap). I think they were just trying to solve the intermittent drops in coil power by just making the power supply bigger and bigger when their capacitor kit that came later was the answer. So dropping back to a 600W power supply with good efficiency that actually DELIVERS that amount of power consistently is probably ok. But this is uncharted territory and would need some temp and power testing (by you, if you go that route, I don't have any AP machines anymore). It's definitely worth trying...

    #542 3 years ago
    Quoted from Spiderpin:

    Must be talking about Stern's GoT

    How did you know that?? lol

    #543 3 years ago

    I can see how AP's housing was truly meant for the 750, thanks. It's lousy how the updated supply blocks incoming air and doesn't truly exhaust the heat. I'll monitor the present unit for power usage.

    Exhaust.jpgExhaust.jpgObstruction.jpgObstruction.jpg
    #544 3 years ago
    Quoted from RockfordReplay:

    I can see how AP's housing was truly meant for the 750, thanks. It's lousy how the updated supply blocks incoming air and doesn't truly exhaust the heat. I'll monitor the present unit for power usage.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Yeah, they definitely made a running change rather than pay $180 for a way-overpowered meanwell RSP-750-48. But if you want to get that (since the AP enclosure is clearly made for it), you can pick them up used on Ebay for about $100 if you make an offer on them when they pop up. That's how I got the one I have. Then all you'd have to do is swap out the fans and you'd be good to go. Just keep a temp probe inside the RSP-750-48 for a month or so until you're sure the temps are stable with the lower CFM quiet fans. There's a LOT of overhead in this power supply, so I sincerely doubt heat will be a problem, even with lower CFM fans, in a home environment.

    6 months later
    #546 2 years ago

    Spec-wise you should be fine, but the connector on that fan is too thick/large to plug into the receptacle in the power supply (if it is the same as in the picture), so you will have to cut and splice in a new one or crimp in new pins and a smaller compatible connector.

    Another path you can take if you have some resistors and shrink wrap on hand is to put a resistor on the red lead of the stock fan to reduce the voltage, which will slow the revolutions of the fan blade and should reduce the noise. It's a hassle to figure out the ideal resistor to use to get the best result, but the stock fan has about twice the CFM of the fan in the plug and play kit I sell (and the one recommended in the OP), so you have a lot of overhead to work with if you want to play around and spend the least amount of money possible (i.e. you have more spare time than money). At some point the fan will not run if the voltage is too low, so there's a fine line to walk. If you go this route, please share your result!

    #547 2 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Spec-wise you should be fine, but the connector on the fan is too thick to plug into the receptacle in the power supply (if it is the same as in the picture), so you will have to cut and splice in a new one or crimp in new pins and a smaller compatible connector.
    Another path you can take if you have some resistors and shrink wrap on hand is to put a resistor on the red lead of the stock fan to reduce the voltage, which will slow the revolutions of the fan blade and should reduce the noise. It's a hassle to figure out the ideal resistor to use to get the best result, but the stock fan has about twice the CFM of the fan I sell (and the one recommended in the OP), so you have a lot of overhead to work with if you want to play around and spend the least amount of money possible (i.e. you have more spare time than money). At some point the fan will not run if the voltage is too low, so there's a fine line to walk. If you go this route, please share your result!

    I would probably not go the resistor route, don't really have the time to explore it...

    I agree on the connector, it does not look like the same on the pictures... I am having a hard time finding the connector on Digikey, as the one you had originally linked is out of stock... how do I search for this on Digikey? is it a JSP type connector, or is JSP the brand?

    #548 2 years ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I would probably not go the resistor route, don't really have the time to explore it...
    I agree on the connector, it does not look like the same on the pictures... I am having a hard time finding the connector on Digikey, as the one you had originally linked is out of stock... how do I search for this on Digikey? is it a JSP type connector, or is JSP the brand?

    It's probably more expensive to buy the male/female pins and connector to roll your own. They're not really economical to buy onsie-twosie. If you're not too precious about the stock power supply fan, you can cut the connector off it with enough wire left, then solder that wire with the right connector already on it onto the other fan and shrink tube the two soldered points.

    #549 2 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    It's probably more expensive to buy the male/female pins and connector to roll your own. They're not really economical to buy onsie-twosie. If you're not too precious about the stock power supply fan, you can cut the connector off it with enough wire left, then solder that wire with the right connector already on it onto the other fan and shrink tube the two soldered points.

    I am going to get a bunch of fans and parts so I can do a few of these and probably some friends too, I also always stock up on other connectors when I order on Digikey so it is ok...

    I checked the connector that comes with the fan and it is a molex with these dimensions:

    https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0022012027/171991?s=N4IgTCBcDa5gtABgIzzIsB2EBdAvkA

    I believe the one you recommended is just 0.05mm smaller but wondering if the molex would still work... if not, and if I can't find the right one then I would splice but I would prefer keep the original should I ever need to put it back.

    #550 2 years ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I am going to get a bunch of fans and parts so I can do a few of these and probably some friends too, I also always stock up on other connectors when I order on Digikey so it is ok...
    I checked the connector that comes with the fan and it is a molex with these dimensions:
    https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0022012027/171991?s=N4IgTCBcDa5gtABgIzzIsB2EBdAvkA
    I believe the one you recommended is just 0.05mm smaller but wondering if the molex would still work... if not, and if I can't find the right one then I would splice but I would prefer keep the original should I ever need to put it back.

    It's definitely not a molex. The link I posted to the OP years ago that's NLA now is a JST XHP-2 2.5mm pitch connector. You might be able to cross it using that info.

    I have the fans I sell in my kits customized at the Sunon factory in Taiwan in bulk for me, so they arrive with the right length wire and connector according to whatever spec I gave them a few years ago to fit in the Stern power supply. That's why you don't see the exact fans I sell with the same wire length and correct connector for the Stern power supply at parts places like digikey, etc. Usually it's 3 wire, naked wires, no connector, or the wrong connector or the wrong wire length and you have to work on it to make it suitable.

    There are 640 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 13.

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