(Topic ID: 129076)
Chesterfield, VA
1 year later
On my high speed (and I'm assuming the same for my f14) the entire stack is riveted. I bought replacement target blades, not just faces... Probably foolish on my part, but it is what it is. Any suggestions? Drill out the bottom rivets and replace with screws and nuts?
IMG_20191013_095952_1 (resized).jpgIMG_20200319_113152 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Drill out the bottom rivets and replace with screws and nuts?
That is precisely how I do it.
Been a while since I did one, I can look when I get home tonight and see if I have any left and get you those details unless others chime in before that.
Thanks a bunch! I assume I probably don't have any, in quantity, laying around. So I'll have to go buy them. Much prefer to just cut out the trial and error if at all possible lol
Don't have the screws at the house. Must be in storage, I'm going by there this weekend if you can hang that long unless again someone can share their experience.
Sorry man.
No worries, I'm not in any real rush. I'm kinda of dreading doing this, tbh... But damn it'll look good if I do..!
I'd look at #5-40 screws for this one. Not sure on the length but that should be easy to guesstimate.
Winnipeg, MB
Quoted from Atari_Daze:That is precisely how I do it.
Stupid question perhaps but what stops current from one blade thru a screw or the original rivit, into the other blade completing the circuit?
Quoted from yellowghost:Stupid question perhaps but what stops current from one blade thru a screw or the original rivit, into the other blade completing the circuit?
The plastic insert.
Always save only stack switches for parts!
pasted_image (resized).png 4 months later
I just did this with 4 targets. All good info, but I found it easier to just use a 1/8" bit to drill out the old rivet. When using the a 3/16" bit, I ended up countersinking the the backup washer and almost damaging the target leaf before freeing the rivet (and yes, the bit was new and sharp!).
I had almost every single switch stack fall apart in my hands trying to change these on my F-14. For whatever reason the original blades were UNBELIEVABLY tight against the tubes. I finally had the last two or three actually play nice.. Every one before that was pure hell!
High Speed went well. No issues there. I did the next guy a favor and slightly wallowed out the holes on the new targets for both machines prior to reassembling and securing with 6-32 machine screws and keps nuts. Worked like a charm. I taped around them in F-14 because there's so much crap crammed in there but iirc I didn't in high speed.
Next on the list is Terminator 2.. So I guess I'll see how hard they made life for WPC games...
IMG_20200718_131722 (resized).jpgIMG_20200718_131712 (resized).jpgIMG_20200415_170222 (resized).jpgIMG_20200725_235717 (resized).jpgIMG_20200725_235706 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:I did the next guy a favor and slightly wallowed out the holes on the new targets for both machines prior to reassembling and securing with 6-32 machine screws and keps nuts.
Switch stacks were endless frustrations as you have to make the decision to go smaller with 4-40, or do what you did and go larger for 6-32. Why the heck hardware stores don't carry 5-40 I dunno but I just ordered 100 of 5-40 from Amazon and nylock nuts to go with them to fix this issue in the future.
Got tired of paying $7-9 each for slingshot switches when I have all the parts here to rebuild them fresh other than the screws!! (Obviously could reuse the nut type, but most are riveted).
I was so pissed I couldn't find 5-40 lol.
Whatever, I'm set now. And apparently I'm going to swap these stupid things in every machine I own until forever, so here we go!
4 months later
Sana'a
Quoted from slochar:Why the heck hardware stores don't carry 5-40 I dunno but I just ordered 100 of 5-40 from Amazon and nylock nuts to go with them to fix this issue in the future.
Every sizeable city has a Fastinal and they locally stock over 50 different 5-40 screws
So does Grainger
Remember that buying a box of 100 is cheaper than buying 20, so always look where the price breaks
2 years later
Need to custom make some Alvin G targets, again, and will be using this method/thread/knowledge to do so!
Curious for opinions. If it was my persona game, I would take the long process but it is a repair for someone and it will add cost of time of labor.
Alvin G switch blades have a ear that hangs off for the wire to solder to. The new ones do not. Do I drill all faces/rivets and transfer them to the alvin g blades? or do i cut the original after the 2 holes and just put it in the switch stack so the 2 plates touch eachother.
Per recommendation, I used a flat disc sander and custom made the shape. The colors aren't perfect but hey, I have new stand ups for cracked and broken ones!
IMG_0789 (resized).jpegIMG_0798 (resized).jpegIMG_0854 (resized).jpegQuoted from northvibe:do i cut the original after the 2 holes and just put it in the switch stack so the 2 plates touch eachother.
I would go this route. No one will ever notice the cut after it's all sandwiched together.
1 month later
Quoted from vid1900:At some point in your pin-owning lifetime, you are going to need to repair a cracked Stand-up Target face, or replace a bunch of them as part of a restoration.
If you do restorations for a living, you will certainly invest in a dedicated Rivet Press. A press saves time, and there is no truer saying than "time is money" when restoring pins.
But if you are doing a repair on route, or just the occasional restoration, I'm going to show you how to make perfect riveted switch faces.
[quoted image]
Do you have a rivet press recommendation?
Quoted from WalrusPin:Do you have a rivet press recommendation?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/where-to-get-rivet-press
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rivet-press-suggestions
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/which-arbor-press-to-modify-for-pinrestore-rivet-press-kit
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rivet-press-for-ramp-flaps
A few topics on the rivet press.
11 months later
Pottsville
Quoted from Platypus:what are the typical length rivets used to attach target faces?
I have the pintonka rivet tool. You can find it on eBay. I think part of the description has to do with Coleman camper vents, but it’s a general purpose tool. It even comes with a small selection of rivets. I’ve used it on ramps and target faces.
Dave
3 weeks later
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