(Topic ID: 126153)

Replacing Sorcerer flipper coils: serial vs. parallel?

By jibmums

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

The two main flipper assemblies in my Sorcerer are a Frankenstein-ish assemblage of mismatched parts, one serial and one parallel coil, a broken lane change switch, etc. Since I need to rebuild them anyway, I want to swap in new coils and do it right. I've seen three configurations on Sorc flippers:

1. Serial coils, SFL-23-600/30-2600. These are the correct coils referenced in the Sorcerer manual.
2. Parallel coils, either 11629 or 11630. I don't know if this was a change from the factory mid-run or an owner switch over to parallel from games that initially had serial coils.
3. Either 1 or 2 above but with the addition of a capacitor. Not referenced in the manual. I'm assuming this to be a factory part as my PF is drilled for big black capacitors that were never installed.

So I was initially going with the factory SFL-23-600/30-2600 and non-capacitor setup just to make things easier on myself, but figured I'd ask first.....

1. What's the ideal setup?
2. IIRC the capacitors help prevent pitting on the EOS switches, but is this really a big factor in a home use pin?
3. Is there an advantage of parallel over serial coils? If I go with parallel, which one is closest in strength to a SFL-23-600/30-2600? Would the EOS setup be the same? Can I keep the old serial coil in the third flipper, which needs no fixing?
4. If I add capacitors, how do I determine which kind?

and on a related topic...

5. The flipper button switch contacts have some pitting on them. Can this be filed smooth, or do I need to install replacements? Is this pitting because it's a high voltage switch as opposed to an ordinary switch? I believe these also have capacitors on them.

#2 8 years ago

Bump (after reading Vid's flipper rebuild guide, could still use the help)

1 month later
#4 8 years ago

I've read that capacitors are of limited benefit on serial coils.

On a parallel coil, you're completely removing the current path from the high-current coil when the EOS opens--and the coil resists a sudden change in current (super-high to none in this case), so it jumps the air gap. Capacitor absorbs that.

On a serial coil, you're elongating the current path when the EOS opens, so the current just goes from high to not as high. With not as large of a current difference, the coil doesn't react as dramatically and doesn't arc (at least not as much).

#5 8 years ago

Some Sorcerers came from the factory with capacitors, they were big, black playfield mounted units.

Anytime a Serial Coil burns out, I always replace it with a parallel unit.

FL11630 is the same strength as SFL-23-600/30-2600

#6 8 years ago

2.2 mfd 250 volt capacitor is what to add to the new coil.

yes, you can mix old Serial and new Parallel coils, no problem

#7 8 years ago

I wound up replacing the setup as original, no caps and SFL-23-600/30-2600 coils. First time coil/EOS swap so I was a little hesitant, thanks go to Vid and Kyle for the help.

Still curious about #5 above: The flipper button switch contacts have some pitting on them. Can this be filed smooth, or do I need to install replacements? Is this pitting because it's a high voltage switch as opposed to an ordinary switch? I believe these also have capacitors on them.

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

The flipper button switch contacts have some pitting on them. Can this be filed smooth,

File them smooth.

Then adjust them so the switch triggers 1/3 the way through the stroke, the rest of the stroke will provide "wiping" action to keep the contacts clean.

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