(Topic ID: 109110)

Replacing plastic flipper bushings


By chad

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by KenLayton
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 4 years ago

    Been doing this a lot on games as of late and when I compare a new one to one that is from say a Comet pinball there is really no difference in height. I will still replace them, but has anyone else noticed a true wear in them?

    #2 4 years ago

    Wear? No, they will break/crack at the base before they wear. There actually made of nylon and not plastic, which is why they dont wear. There are many different styles/sizes that were used over the years.

    John P. Dayhuff
    Battle Creek, Mi.
    269-979-3836

    #3 4 years ago

    I have seen them cracked/broken especially on Corvette, Dr who and other pins with upper flippers.

    #4 4 years ago

    Replace! I haven't done many flipper rebuilds but these are the only broken parts I've seen.

    #5 4 years ago

    Worn bushings frequently become egg shaped internally and allow too much side-to-side slop. This results in "lost motion" which can weaken the flipper strength.

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Worn bushings frequently become egg shaped internally and allow too much side-to-side slop. This results in "lost motion" which can weaken the flipper strength.

    Very well stated.

    #7 4 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Worn bushings frequently become egg shaped internally and allow too much side-to-side slop. This results in "lost motion" which can weaken the flipper strength.

    Or worse, FLIPPER DRAG on the PF!

    Always replace them.

    #8 4 years ago

    Always replace them when rebuilding flippers. Why anyone (ahem, other than PBR...) would sell rebuilds without them is bad representation of what a "complete flipper rebuild" is. I would say 5-10% of flipper speed comes from a difference of old first bushings compared to new. The sleeves are about 70-80% of the speed change IMO.

    The problem with bushings to is if they break, that's where you get that horrid flipper wear in front of a flipper, and it doesn't take long for it to happen, and you may not even have noticed a change in the flipper before it does this.

    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Worn bushings frequently become egg shaped internally and allow too much side-to-side slop. This results in "lost motion" which can weaken the flipper strength.

    They also wear I believe, I'm guessing from little bits of whatever getting in there. In a pinch, when I didn't have the right bushing, and the hole wasn't internally widened, as you noted can happen, I have tried cleaning it really well with a pipe cleaner (soft bristles), N2, and reusing, but it doesn't seem to turn as clean as with a new one. This tells me that there is some "ballistics" so to speak that is involved.

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    Wear? No, they will break/crack at the base before they wear. There actually made of nylon and not plastic, which is why they dont wear. There are many different styles/sizes that were used over the years.
    John P. DayhuffBattle Creek, Mi.269-979-3836

    Nylon is plastic.

    #10 4 years ago

    Been said, replace them. It was mentioned above about too much side to side, broken bushings is often the problem with flippers on a game you just got and don't know why they are so wobbly. They are cheap enough and (also as mentioned above) should always come with flipper rebuild kits.

    #11 4 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Worn bushings frequently become egg shaped internally and allow too much side-to-side slop. This results in "lost motion" which can weaken the flipper strength.

    Yep. If they are worn and wallowed out you'll get sloppy flippers that are weaker than they should be. It can make a very noticeable difference, especially on games with steep ramp shots or distant ramp shots. You also won't get good dead ball bounces if the bushings are worn.

    #12 4 years ago
    Quoted from Gatecrasher:

    Nylon is plastic.

    Yes, but very different. The nylon parts move much smoother, and seem to take more abuse before showing the effects.

    #13 4 years ago

    I generally replace them. Usually you have to order them separately.

    Order some of those tiny nuts and screws that secure them too. Always missing nutw and the screws can sometimes be stripped at the head.

    #14 4 years ago
    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    I generally replace them. Usually you have to order them separately.
    Order some of those tiny nuts and screws that secure them too. Always missing nutw and the screws can sometimes be stripped at the head.

    Again, order from PBR. For like $34(!) you get GOOD pawls/plungers/links, sleeves, bushings, EOS switches, stops, an allen key, rubber stops, retract springs, and ALL screws/nuts/washers you need:

    http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html

    If you need to save a few bucks for lesser stuff, there are options, but for $34 a pair, for the single most important aspect of your game, this is by far the best route for anyone, with any game.

    The only complete sets he does not have are for classic stern, though he has some parts.

    #15 4 years ago

    Nice. That's a good price for all that is included.

    Most kits don't have the bushings, let alone the set of nuts/bolts to secure them.

    #16 4 years ago

    I also don't understand why other companies don't include the bushings like PBR does. To me, the bushings should always be included in rebuild kits since it is a common wear part.

    I have also seen where crud gets inside the bushing and literally gets ground into the plastic and impedes the shaft from rotating as fast as it should.

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