I would also check the other machine. I ran into a game where the hit and neutral were switched and noticed the same thing. It can also easily happen if someone adds a three to two prong adapter on a couple nearby games but plugs one in backwards.

I've gotten into the habit of using the DVM set to AC to check between the lock bars, etc between games. All of them to date have shown zero but I just ran across a pair of machines that show just over 50v. Immediately unplugged them. One has had the end replaced with a grounded connector as it should. The other has the original end but the ground tab was broken off. I am going to replace the whole cord at some point but for now will install a new grounded connector.

So I will get that new grounded plug on the machine and check again. If there is still a voltage difference I'll have to take apart the connector on the other game to see if who ever installed it connected the leads backwards.

Either way I plan to get to the bottom of it asap since I want them to be safe to play. Until then those two games stay unplugged.

If you haven't checked lately it only takes a moment to use your meter across neighboring games to see if there are issues to be addressed.

New grounded plug fixed the issue. Make sure you check your games and keep everyone safe.

If you have a voltmeter set it to AC and measure the rails from one machine to the next. Should be 0 or very close to it. If you get around 60 volts then you may have an open ground. If you get 120V then you may have a hot/neutral swapped on the power cord of one machine, Not safe. Start with the voltmeter and go from there.

Yes. When I had a machine with a bad ground plug I would see around 60V on one. That was fixed when I fixed the ground on the cord. If someone replaced an end or a cord and mixed up the neutral and hot leads then that would explain it too.

Sounds like an open ground. Same thing happened on one of my machines.

I would check with pbresource.com to see if they have them. It is an odd size. If you can't find one then at least put some grommet edging on the metal opening:

https://www.amazon.com/Tueascallk-Flexible-Protector-Plastic-Thickness/dp/B07K8F951B

https://www.amazon.com/grommet-edging/s

The hard plastic slotted version works well and I've used it for similar reasons.

It’s also good to use a meter set to AC to measure between lockdown bars on all your games. Shouldn’t see any voltage. If you do it could be a broken ground or a miswired game.

It's not the same cord. It had a flat cord and now you used a round one. Did you verify the way they are wired from the pins on the plugs to the actual colors? I've seen some cords where the colors weren't right so I don't trust the colors of the wires.

FYI pbresource.com does sell the flat cords. My Meteor came with a yellow extension cord spliced in and it was horrible. I installed a fresh new flat power cord and it looks great. As a final test I plug in one of the outlet testers (that I try in the wall first) to verify that the service outlet shows the proper polarity and that it is properly grounded.