(Topic ID: 105260)

Replacing Line Cords, Plugs & Wall Sockets- Vid's Guide

By vid1900

9 years ago


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  • 388 posts
  • 113 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 54 days ago by emsrph
  • Topic is favorited by 368 Pinsiders

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    Topic index (key posts)

    22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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    Post #4 This post describes what each terminal in a new plug is for. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)

    Post #6 This post is step two in replacing the plug on your old cord. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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    #78 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Place the copper conductors between the clamp plates and tighten the clamp screws. DO NOT put the wire directly under the screw heads for this style plug.
    Tight means 20 inch pounds if you have a torque wrench- tight means very tight, but don't strip the screw heads for the rest of us.
    Note also that there is no extra bare copper showing above the clamp plates, nor is there any stray strands of copper. If you somehow screw up, just cut all the conductors back and start with a fresh section of cord.
    Screw heads need proper conductor colors:
    GREEN = GROUND
    SILVER = WHITE, NEUTRAL or RIBBED
    BRASS = BLACK OR HOT
    INSTALL-1.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
    INSTALL-2.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

    Excellent guide VID - very helpful and informative.

    One little hint:

    At least in germany (maybe in the whole EU) it is forbidden by law regulations, to connect the wires in the way, shown in your photos. You have to use so called "Aderendhülsen". I do not know the english word, maybe end sleeve or ferrule. There are good safety reasons, to do it this way. See attached photo.

    Aderendhülse.jpgAderendhülse.jpg

    1 year later
    #82 7 years ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    Do older games need a MOV? I can't see one on my Gottlieb System 80.

    Good question. Some older games (e.g. WMS Sys11) have one and others do not (e.g. GTB Sys80).

    The Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV) is there, to protect the game from powerspikes. So it is not necessary, but it does not hurt. Games in the EU use a 275V MOV and in the US a 130V MOV (e.g. this one: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP)

    I personally have added a MOV to all my games.

    If you are interested, here is an interesting document:
    http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/product_catalogs/littelfuse_varistor_catalog.pdf.pdf

    3 months later
    #104 7 years ago
    Quoted from Euchrid:

    Also, I need to replace the MoV near the line fuse, what is the part number, or voltage for that part? Several come up on Vid's Great Plains link. Thanks!

    Should be this one for your country US:

    https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP

    1 year later
    #120 5 years ago
    Quoted from Toasterdog:

    So I recently acquired this STTNG and this is how it was when I received it. Power switch does nothing, game stays on with switch in either direction. I hate pulling the cord to power my game down.
    I would also like to bring it back to stock form. I know I need a outlet cover, ac line filter, 130v MOV, and service outlet from Marco's. What other parts would I need?
    http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14810-1
    http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5008-01
    http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5102-10310-00
    http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5017-09044-00
    Without the original setup to look at it's tough to make sense of.

    You still would need a fuseholder (panel mount) and a fuse:

    http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FHPM

    Could also be, that you need a cable entry with strain relief, something like this:

    https://cdn-1.us.xmsymphony.com/eedde3b9e7b005007d1cf429fd96e65d/contents/ITC182150/l_lm901001.jpg

    In a hurry I found this photo:

    http://www.austinthompson.org/Arcade/StarTrekTheNextGeneration/Pictures/SttngCabinetInside.jpg

    PS.:
    Your actual installation is criminal dangerous, do not let your children grab through the coin door!!!!!!!

    4 weeks later
    #127 5 years ago
    Quoted from Toasterdog:

    Bump. No power.
    My game powered up before, I had to plug and unplug it though. The switch only had the blacks wired and they were on the same side.
    Mine black wires are on opposite sides?

    VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
    VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!

    I think, your varistor and the NTC are wired wrong.

    The NTC (BLACK part with imprint STM CL-30) has to be soldered in SERIES with the fuse holder and the line filter.

    The Varistor/MOV (RED part) has to be soldered in PARALELL between the input of the line filter.

    I hope, you read this post before you start your machine.

    The NTC can beome very hot, so take care, that it does not touch a cable inside the box and the wires have to be isolated.

    Good luck man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    #128 5 years ago

    NTC correct (resized).jpgNTC correct (resized).jpg

    1 month later
    #137 5 years ago
    Quoted from sbmania:

    vid1900- I've got a weird problem with a Bally Spectrum that I just got in. It was carrying 110v on its metal side rails and lock down bar when measured to another nearby pinball machine. (No wonder it made me jump when I happened to touch both!) It would do this even when turned off and plugged into a surge protector which itself was turned off. The game runs fine.
    A repair guy told me to reverse the neutral and hot wires entering the filter box which I did. The machine still shows 110v AC at the side rails, but it drops to 50v AC when I turn the game on. Any idea what might be wrong?? Game has it original power cord with ground plug in place. The ground plug shows continuity with the side rails as it should. I assume I have a short between the hot wire and ground somewhere in the game, but no fuse is blowing??

    Attention - DANGER TO LIFE !!!

    You should no longer try it yourself, if you are not an electrician.

    If it tingles on grounded parts, it gets serious.

    In case of mistakes BEHIND the transformer, you put the pinball machine in ashes at worst case, in case of mistakes IN FRONT OF transformer yourself.

    You have somwhere a loose connection in your line cord plug or your wall outlet, that makes a connection to earth.

    Switch off your house fuse and first check your line cord and your wall outlet - better let it do an elcetrician!!!!!!!!

    Fotos would help!!!

    How is your machine connected, to a power outlet strip???

    2 weeks later
    #149 5 years ago
    Quoted from driskel:

    Can a Receptable Line Filter (example part at Marco: 5102-15493-00). replace the line filter, thermistor and varistor in WMS power boxes?

    I do not see any problems, but the thermistor and varistor are not integrated and have to be added separately.

    #151 5 years ago
    Quoted from driskel:

    Thank you. That was my exact question.

    By the way: I hate it, when a seller does not provide datasheets. I cannot see any datasheet for the Marco-Parts.

    Attached is a datasheet for a similar part and you can see the schematic of such a part - only for your interest. ...

    Look, how cheap these parts are here in germany, and this is even a good 10A part:

    https://www.voelkner.de/products/476711/Schaffner-Netzfilter-mit-Kaltgeraetebuchse-250-V-AC-10A-0.225-mH-B-x-H-48mm-x-22.5mm-FN-9222-10-06-1St..html

    Schaffner Netzfilter.pdfSchaffner Netzfilter.pdf

    #153 5 years ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    Had a new one happen this weekend. Party of 50 or so people. Had a 4 player game on Dipsy Doodle raging. After some nudging the backbox back panel unlocked, the panel fell out of the game, and severed the power cord of the jungle Queen sitting next to it. Haha.
    My question is, any reason why I shouldn’t just splice the severed cord back together rather than replace?

    1.) because thats botch
    2.) safety reasons
    3.) replacement cord is not expensive
    4.) replacing the cord takes less time than soldering, isolating etc.
    5.) looks ugly

    Just my few cents ....

    3 months later
    #174 5 years ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    I need to replace the line filter in my Haunted House. Should I also add a MOV and thermistor while I'm at it? It didn't have one originally. Has anyone done this on a System 80 game and have a picture?

    As it is not much work, it is a good idea.

    Look at my grafic here:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dragon-systen-1-help-needed-adding-fuses-to-small-transformer-mod-#post-4716567

    In the grafic, it is a system 1, but it is same for system 80. Look for the correct varistor value for your country. NTC can become very hot, so it must be installed in a position, where nothing can burn!!! CAUTION, you work on the high voltage side!!!!!

    #176 5 years ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    Awesome, thanks so much.
    One question, how do you secure the NTC in the cabinet?

    I do not know the english word, in german it is "Lüsterklemme". It is a connector you see in the following picture. Important is, that it is of ceramic or porcelain. If you see the part, you at once know, what I mean.

    In my sys 1 machines I screw this part to the cabinet and then connect the NTC. The lead of the NTC I put through BOTH srews - but pictures say more than words, so please see the picture.

    Always be aware, that the old Gottiebs are imho dangerous inside the cabinet concerning safety. There is no good isolation of nearly all HOT mains wires. I never would allow my my children and my guest, to touch anything inside the cabinet. From the elctric point of view from today, it is criminal dangerous, only my few cents.

    Hope, the picture helps you.

    Varistor is easier to install, you can simpy solder it the the input of the line filter.

    NTC Ceramic Connector Sys1 trafoboard (resized).pngNTC Ceramic Connector Sys1 trafoboard (resized).png

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