(Topic ID: 105260)

Replacing Line Cords, Plugs & Wall Sockets- Vid's Guide

By vid1900

9 years ago


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  • 388 posts
  • 113 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 55 days ago by emsrph
  • Topic is favorited by 368 Pinsiders

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    Topic index (key posts)

    22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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    Post #4 This post describes what each terminal in a new plug is for. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)

    Post #6 This post is step two in replacing the plug on your old cord. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RichWolfson.
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    #193 5 years ago

    I've had my Pin•Bot for over 20 years and just noticed that the line cord was spliced and the ground prong was broken off the plug. I purchased a 15 ft medical grade cord and started to replace it this evening. I noticed there is no thermistor and none noted on the schematic in the manual. Should find one and install it? Hopefully my local electrical supply place will have one or the one remaining electronics store in the area which is always a fun stop.

    But since it has been working fine since 1986 without it I was wondering if it was worth the, as small as it will be, effort to install one. The MOV looks brand new as does the filter so those will remain.

    Thanks again Vid for starting this thread and for everyone who participates. There is no better information anywhere.

    ///Rich

    PS-One other observation. There is a discussion or 18ga or 16ga cords. I went with the 18ga one as it was the same size as the original (before the splice). But the leads of the thermistor is clearly smaller than 18ga as is the small wire from my fuse (I changed it from 8 to 5 amps) to the filter. What am I missing in that it has to pass whatever the machine will draw. Doesn't that suggest that the 18ga power cord is plenty large?

    #195 5 years ago
    Quoted from slgerber:

    ...You should be fine. 18ga. is good for 10 amps...

    Yes. But the thermistor leads are small and it is in series with the hot and switch taking the full load. Would the thermistor melt because of the current if it got to even 5 amps even though it was zero ohms being hot?

    More of a technical question rather than worrying. And also if I should install one where there was none and it's not in the Pin•Bot schematics either.

    ///Rich

    #202 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You can add one, but they did not come standard on Williams games until latter.

    So Vid, I am going with whatever you say. Should I add one or is it not necessary? I am going with a 5 amp fuse but will the thermistor lesson shock on startup? If it will provide some benefit, any at all, it's worth the $2.50 while I have it open to install it.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    The heavier gauge of the cord, the better made it is (better plug, better jacket).

    I got a medical grade cord. It's well made and since I have no idea where this machine will end up, I didn't want anyone to even consider an extension cord.

    Thanks in advance.

    ///Rich

    #204 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Those are nice!

    I don't add them, so it's hard to tell someone else they should.

    Perfect. And I appreciate the candidness.

    I can button up the machine tonight now that I don't have to try to source the thermistor.

    And for the record, I learned a LOT from this thread. Things you don't think about as I do what I can to keep the Pin•Bot humming.

    ///Rich

    Added over 5 years ago:

    After a week it's still working fine which was not unexpected. I replaced the 8 amp fuse with a 3 amp fuse and it's been great for a week. I have a Save-A-Watt attached and it never went above 2.25 amps. But I have a 4 amp fuse ready to go just in case.. ///Rich

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