(Topic ID: 105260)

Replacing Line Cords, Plugs & Wall Sockets- Vid's Guide


By vid1900

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 215 posts
  • 67 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by denisw1
  • Topic is favorited by 275 Pinsiders

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    Topic index (key posts)

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    There are 215 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
    #201 1 year ago
    Quoted from slgerber:

    Wow, 4 meter power cord, seems long but ok.

    In the States, code is nowadays 2 meters between outlets, but I've been in plenty of older basements and bars where they are much farther apart than that.

    I like to be able to pull a game out from the row for service, and still have it plugged in.

    That's why high end fridges have long cords & water lines, you can pull them out from the alcove to clean behind them - without going through any acrobatics re-plugging them

    #202 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You can add one, but they did not come standard on Williams games until latter.

    So Vid, I am going with whatever you say. Should I add one or is it not necessary? I am going with a 5 amp fuse but will the thermistor lesson shock on startup? If it will provide some benefit, any at all, it's worth the $2.50 while I have it open to install it.

    Quoted from vid1900:

    The heavier gauge of the cord, the better made it is (better plug, better jacket).

    I got a medical grade cord. It's well made and since I have no idea where this machine will end up, I didn't want anyone to even consider an extension cord.

    Thanks in advance.

    ///Rich

    #203 1 year ago
    Quoted from RichWolfson:

    I got a medical grade cord.

    Those are nice!

    Quoted from RichWolfson:

    Should I add one or is it not necessary?

    I don't add them, so it's hard to tell someone else they should.

    #204 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Those are nice!

    I don't add them, so it's hard to tell someone else they should.

    Perfect. And I appreciate the candidness.

    I can button up the machine tonight now that I don't have to try to source the thermistor.

    And for the record, I learned a LOT from this thread. Things you don't think about as I do what I can to keep the Pin•Bot humming.

    ///Rich

    Added 16 months ago:

    After a week it's still working fine which was not unexpected. I replaced the 8 amp fuse with a 3 amp fuse and it's been great for a week. I have a Save-A-Watt attached and it never went above 2.25 amps. But I have a 4 amp fuse ready to go just in case.. ///Rich

    7 months later
    #205 9 months ago

    I am renovating an Aces & Kings (Williams 1970) and have discovered that the main current cable isn't grounded.

    Therefore I am going to change the cable to a grounded one. Does it matter how the live and neutral wires are soldered to 1 and 2 in the image below? Usually, it doesn't matter but since this is an old machine I thought I would ask...

    Ground (resized).jpg
    #206 9 months ago
    Quoted from nibre:

    I am renovating an Aces & Kings (Williams 1970) and have discovered that the main current cable isn't grounded.
    Therefore I am going to change the cable to a grounded one. Does it matter how the live and neutral wires are soldered to 1 and 2 in the image below? Usually, it doesn't matter but since this is an old machine I thought I would ask...[quoted image]

    See this post:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945124

    AND review the entire thread for additional background and safety tips...

    #207 9 months ago
    Quoted from nibre:

    I am renovating an Aces & Kings (Williams 1970) and have discovered that the main current cable isn't grounded.
    Therefore I am going to change the cable to a grounded one. Does it matter how the live and neutral wires are soldered to 1 and 2 in the image below? Usually, it doesn't matter but since this is an old machine I thought I would ask...[quoted image]

    I just picked up an early 1960’s EM that has one half of a line cord running to the transformer and the other part running to a ground much like yours. There is no fuse nearby like many other EM’s. I assume I could just ground to the transformer case rather than one of those little guys?

    #208 9 months ago
    Quoted from Murphdom:

    I assume I could just ground to the transformer case rather than one of those little guys?

    Don't assume. Read the post and do as it says. Here is the link again: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945124

    3 months later
    #209 6 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Finally, run a Ground Braid to the metal Legs, Coin Door, Lock Down Bar and Rails of the machine. This will protect the user by making those parts a better path to ground than the player himself is.

    Where do you get the ground braid to do this? Also I plan to get the 3 prong plug at HF but what kind of power cord do you recommend for re-wiring a 1950's EM?

    #210 6 months ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Where do you get the ground braid to do this? Also I plan to get the 3 prong plug at HF but what kind of power cord do you recommend for re-wiring a 1950's EM?

    I found the answer. Thanks.
    A: You can buy a 15 foot, 16 gauge, white or black extension cord from any hardware store (don't buy orange, or you will look like an amateur ), and cut off the female end.

    #211 6 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Finally, run a Ground Braid to the metal Legs, Coin Door, Lock Down Bar and Rails of the machine. This will protect the user by making those parts a better path to ground than the player himself is.

    Is the Ground Braid needed for Woodrail pinballs with wood rails, wood legs, wood lock down bar and wood coin door?

    #212 6 months ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    Is the Ground Braid needed for Woodrail pinballs with wood rails, wood legs, wood lock down bar and wood coin door?

    Wood is generally a poor conductor so wooden items are generally not grounded. If you have metal things that could easily come in contact with something that carries current consider connecting ground braid to that thing.

    #213 6 months ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    Wood is generally a poor conductor so wooden items are generally not grounded. If you have metal things that could easily come in contact with something that carries current consider connecting ground braid to that thing.

    That's what I was thinking too. The transformer is in the backbox instead of the cabinet. I'll just hook the ground to it from the new electric cord.

    1 month later
    #214 4 months ago

    I picked a William's 1974 EM - and the 2 prong line cord was pretty crappy. So I went looking through this thread for tips.

    I found a couple of things in my machine which confuse and/or concern me.

    a) There appears to be a green ground wire near where the 2-wire line cord comes in but it's obviously not connected to the 2-wire cord. It's just capped off. (see photo)
    b) There was a green ground connected to the transformer - but someone clipped it clean off. (see photo)
    c) There was a green ground wire that came up in the bundle to the start button, but that was clipped off of something too (see photo).
    d) There is a green ground wire attached the plate the power switch is mounted on (no photo).

    So I have a couple of questions -
    1) Why would have someone clipped those connections?
    2) What was the ground wire in the bundle near the start button attached to? The leg (front left)?
    3) Where else should I look for clipped ground wires?

    Thanks for any help or tips -

    John

    IMG_2412_mod (resized).jpgIMG_2410_mod (resized).jpgIMG_2411_mod (resized).jpg
    4 months later
    #215 1 day ago

    Some newer william games do not have a MOV in the power box. Can these machines be converted to 230v by simply changing the wires on the connector plug, without worrying about having it blow out a MOV?

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