Quoted from Hammerhead:Odd.
123V after the fuse, 0V after the thermistor, 0V at the filter output. Also no continuity across the thermistor. The thermistor is brand new.
Well I feel pretty stupid - had the thermistor and varistor in the wrong spots. Switched them around and everything's golden again.
Big thanks to Vid for posting this topic. I acquired a Jungle Lord that was far less than working as advertised which had a power cord incorrectly attached (and some weird shit going on with extra wires there too) and this topic was all I needed to make sure the game powered up again. Thanks Vid. If we ever meet I owe you a beer (or three)!
Quoted from Euchrid:Also, I need to replace the MoV near the line fuse, what is the part number, or voltage for that part? Several come up on Vid's Great Plains link. Thanks!
Should be this one for your country US:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP
Quoted from cichlid:Vid,
Clay's guide says that the ribbed conductor is the hot wire:
"The hot wire on the power cord should have "lines" molded into the insulation (as today's power cords are all polarized)."
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index3.htm#power
But you say the ribbed conductor is the neutral wire:Who's right, before I get electrocuted?
Looks like they might both be right. Please see my post below...if Vid or anyone else can help, it would be much appreciated before I wind up in the hospital...
Finishing up my JP SS restoration. Was soldering in a new power cord and noticed that the banded side of the original cord went to the right side of the plug, while the banded side of the plug I got from Steve at PBR leads to the left side of the plug.
In the picture of that small transformer thing that the power cord leads are soldered on, the banded side was originally on the left lead, non-banded on the right. So that's how I soldered the new cord.
My knowledge of electrical outlets ends at my contact number for my home electrician, and I'm thinking that if it was soldered on reversed, REALLY bad things could happen.
Please look at the pics below, and if anybody can tell me precisely which side of the plug should lead to which side of that small grey box (as well as which side of the plug is the hot lead), I'd really appreciate it. So would my Joker Poker. 
20170520_124141_resized (resized).jpg
20170520_124121_resized (resized).jpg
20170520_124110_resized (resized).jpg
The hard plastic replacement plug you show in picture #1 has been assembled INCORRECTLY.
>>>> The rubber plug you show in picture #2 is correct, with the ribbed wire on the neutral tab. <<<<<<
Make sure that the HOT lead (that's the smooth one) on the new cord goes to the fuse and the switch.
-
If you are in ANY way uncertain about the above - stop - and I'll clarify.
vid1900 Thanks for this great thread, I have referred to it several times in the past. Now, let me ask you this...
If I want to permanently add a standalone power supply, say for example to power up my true light bar atop High Speed, what is the proper way to do that, tying it into the line cord/power switch?
Right now, I have it plugged into the service outlet, so it is always on as long as the machine is plugged in and not ideal. I would like it to power up when the machine is turned on.
Will you please coach me on the CORRECT way to do this?
Thanks!
I'm sure vid can help you with this, but (and here's the part where somebody thinks they have a better idea and you must want to hear it), High Speed is a 30 year old electrical device. I would put it on a power strip or switched outlet and not worry about what might happen with electricity running into an old game. And this easily solves your problem.
Quoted from xeneize:If I want to permanently add a standalone power supply, say for example to power up my true light bar atop High Speed, what is the proper way to do that, tying it into the line cord/power switch?
The proper way is connect the power supply neutral and ground directly to the incoming leads on the power cord. Connect the hot lead to the outgoing connector on the power switch.
This will result in your new power supply load being added to the existing load on the main fuse. You could install a separate fuse between the switch and the new power supply (sized appropriately) so a short might blow only the new power supply circuit rather than the entire game power.
So i’m Replacing the cord on a Bally Star Trek, and the original cord (manufacturer) had the ribbed side of the cord on the hot side (right side) according to Vid. I installed it the way Vid described, and I have nothing. I’m confused. I installed the black on the right, and the white on the left. On the male side I installed the black on the right, and the white on the left.
Quoted from PinWiz1969:So i’m Replacing the cord on a Bally Star Trek, and the original cord (manufacturer) had the ribbed side of the cord on the hot side (right side) according to Vid. I installed it the way Vid described, and I have nothing. I’m confused. I installed the black on the right, and the white on the left. On the male side I installed the black on the right, and the white on the left.
Do you have a meter?
If you do, you need to check if you have voltage at the RF Filter (the silver box the line cord solders onto).
Then you need to check if you have voltage on the lower half (output side) of the RF Filter.
Then you need to check if you have power at the Cabinet Switch.
Vid, thanks for making this thread! Have a question...
Hot goes to fuse, neutral to transformer is the preferred way to connect line cords as you detail in this thread.
I've had explained to me that this connection order makes sense because fewer components are hot so servicing a plugged-in, power-switch-off machine will pose less risk of shock (for example, target and sequence bank resets running to playfield won't be hot so much preferred).
My question is...
Is this service-safety reason the only reason that hot to fuse is preferred or are there other reasons? For example, wondering if a pin would work 100% exactly the same if hot went to transformer instead (not saying I want to do this - just wondering out of interest).
Quoted from vid1900:You always want to fuse and switch the hot side for safety.
I was working on a stern project over the weekend & I didn't fuse the hot via your photo on page one. Mistake. I didn't think to change out the rusting power switch and when I switched the machine on, the power switch blew & shot 8 foot worth of sparks out at me. I was lucky it didn't start a fire.
If you are working on a project, change the power cord out, fuse the hot, change out the power switch. Good Luck. The pinball gods were on my side.
*Edit, thanks Vid for the awesome guide!
So I recently acquired this STTNG and this is how it was when I received it. Power switch does nothing, game stays on with switch in either direction. I hate pulling the cord to power my game down. 
I would also like to bring it back to stock form. I know I need a outlet cover, ac line filter, 130v MOV, and service outlet from Marco's. What other parts would I need?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14810-1
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5008-01
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5102-10310-00
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5017-09044-00
Without the original setup to look at it's tough to make sense of. 
Quoted from Toasterdog:So I recently acquired this STTNG and this is how it was when I received it. Power switch does nothing, game stays on with switch in either direction. I hate pulling the cord to power my game down.
I would also like to bring it back to stock form. I know I need a outlet cover, ac line filter, 130v MOV, and service outlet from Marco's. What other parts would I need?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14810-1
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5008-01
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5102-10310-00
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5017-09044-00
Without the original setup to look at it's tough to make sense of.
You still would need a fuseholder (panel mount) and a fuse:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FHPM
Could also be, that you need a cable entry with strain relief, something like this:
https://cdn-1.us.xmsymphony.com/eedde3b9e7b005007d1cf429fd96e65d/contents/ITC182150/l_lm901001.jpg
In a hurry I found this photo:
http://www.austinthompson.org/Arcade/StarTrekTheNextGeneration/Pictures/SttngCabinetInside.jpg
PS.:
Your actual installation is criminal dangerous, do not let your children grab through the coin door!!!!!!!
So I’ve gotten all the parts i need. Well, I think I do. 
I just have no clue the corrrect way to wire the new switch. It seems larger (15amp) but I purchased it from Marcos and it said it was for pinball machines...so crossing my fingers.
Any help would be appreciated. I saw the previous pictures, but didn’t see any showing the correct wiring on the switch. Mine seems hacked up. Thanks
BA83B129-313E-4BA3-B6CF-88D797CD20EB (resized).jpeg10E42678-4264-4840-83C7-6D7CDE8E2776 (resized).jpeg
9A479434-2699-4CA5-96D8-01FDCD58E6C5 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from vid1900:It's too dark to see on my phone.
Okay new pic.
I had no power at my first attempt.0D0C0E1F-E210-427F-AD3F-DFE97E73B956 (resized).jpeg
Bump. No power.
My game powered up before, I had to plug and unplug it though. The switch only had the blacks wired and they were on the same side.
Mine black wires are on opposite sides?
^ You have both the Hot and the Neutral on the switch.
Get your meter out, put it in diode mode, test the switch contacts (with no wires attached) and figure out what 2 contacts complete a circuit.
Only attach the Hot (black) wire to the switch, the Neutral (white) wire is not interrupted.
Quoted from Toasterdog:Bump. No power.
My game powered up before, I had to plug and unplug it though. The switch only had the blacks wired and they were on the same side.
Mine black wires are on opposite sides?
VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
I think, your varistor and the NTC are wired wrong.
The NTC (BLACK part with imprint STM CL-30) has to be soldered in SERIES with the fuse holder and the line filter.
The Varistor/MOV (RED part) has to be soldered in PARALELL between the input of the line filter.
I hope, you read this post before you start your machine.
The NTC can beome very hot, so take care, that it does not touch a cable inside the box and the wires have to be isolated.
Good luck man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have not tried anything to this point. Thank you both for your assistance. I will report back shortly.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Well I feel pretty stupid - had the thermistor and varistor in the wrong spots. Switched them around and everything's golden again.
I think I used this picture for reference, but didn't read that it was incorrect, lol.
Hey @vid1900, hopefully this one is easy.
This is my original line filter from a 1979 Future Spa:
You can see it's rated "2x5 Amp."
These are my two replacement line filters I have already:
The larger one says 5 amp (made in Thailand), the smaller one says 6 amp (made in China).
You can see the one lines are slightly different, not that I can read a one line:
line_filter_one_lines (resized).jpg
Can you give any guidance for which one would be a good replacement, if any? Thanks!
Interesting the Chinese 6A unit is physically smaller... I know which one I would use;
The Delta brand.
See if Vid agrees...
Those filters rarely go bad, most pinball machines draw less than 3 amps, so as long as the filter has a larger rating than the one you replaced, you should be fine.
I have a bunch of 6 & 10A units that I use on ones that are blown open, and have never replaced one twice.
Quoted from vid1900:Those filters rarely go bad, most pinball machines draw less than 3 amps, so as long as the filter has a larger rating than the one you replaced, you should be fine.
I have a bunch of 6 & 10A units that I use on ones that are blown open, and have never replaced one twice.
The one I replaced says "2x5amp." The Delta says 5amps but I *think* it's 2x5amp like the original.
Generally, I'm fine keeping electronics that are holding together nicely. This is something that was a little sticky corroded, and I already have these replacements, so my inclination is to replace it (nothing down on Mexico vs. Thailand or China).
vid1900- I've got a weird problem with a Bally Spectrum that I just got in. It was carrying 110v on its metal side rails and lock down bar when measured to another nearby pinball machine. (No wonder it made me jump when I happened to touch both!) It would do this even when turned off and plugged into a surge protector which itself was turned off. The game runs fine.
A repair guy told me to reverse the neutral and hot wires entering the filter box which I did. The machine still shows 110v AC at the side rails, but it drops to 50v AC when I turn the game on. Any idea what might be wrong?? Game has it original power cord with ground plug in place. The ground plug shows continuity with the side rails as it should. I assume I have a short between the hot wire and ground somewhere in the game, but no fuse is blowing??
Quoted from sbmania:vid1900- I've got a weird problem with a Bally Spectrum that I just got in. It was carrying 110v on its metal side rails and lock down bar when measured to another nearby pinball machine. (No wonder it made me jump when I happened to touch both!) It would do this even when turned off and plugged into a surge protector which itself was turned off. The game runs fine.
A repair guy told me to reverse the neutral and hot wires entering the filter box which I did. The machine still shows 110v AC at the side rails, but it drops to 50v AC when I turn the game on. Any idea what might be wrong?? Game has it original power cord with ground plug in place. The ground plug shows continuity with the side rails as it should. I assume I have a short between the hot wire and ground somewhere in the game, but no fuse is blowing??
Attention - DANGER TO LIFE !!!
You should no longer try it yourself, if you are not an electrician.
If it tingles on grounded parts, it gets serious.
In case of mistakes BEHIND the transformer, you put the pinball machine in ashes at worst case, in case of mistakes IN FRONT OF transformer yourself.
You have somwhere a loose connection in your line cord plug or your wall outlet, that makes a connection to earth.
Switch off your house fuse and first check your line cord and your wall outlet - better let it do an elcetrician!!!!!!!!
Fotos would help!!!
How is your machine connected, to a power outlet strip???
Quoted from sbmania:vid1900- I've got a weird problem with a Bally Spectrum that I just got in. It was carrying 110v on its metal side rails and lock down bar when measured to another nearby pinball machine. (No wonder it made me jump when I happened to touch both!) It would do this even when turned off and plugged into a surge protector which itself was turned off. The game runs fine.
A repair guy told me to reverse the neutral and hot wires entering the filter box which I did. The machine still shows 110v AC at the side rails, but it drops to 50v AC when I turn the game on. Any idea what might be wrong?? Game has it original power cord with ground plug in place. The ground plug shows continuity with the side rails as it should. I assume I have a short between the hot wire and ground somewhere in the game, but no fuse is blowing??
I would also check the other machine. I ran into a game where the hit and neutral were switched and noticed the same thing. It can also easily happen if someone adds a three to two prong adapter on a couple nearby games but plugs one in backwards.
Quoted from sbmania:...even when turned off and plugged into a surge protector which itself was turned off.
Sounds like your hot wire is connected improperly from the wall, maybe reversed with the neutral. The surge protector should be interrupting the hot wire, making it impossible to get current from it while turned off.
Get one of these or something similar and test your wall outlets. https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/
Quoted from sbmania:vid1900- I've got a weird problem with a Bally Spectrum that I just got in. It was carrying 110v on its metal side rails and lock down bar when measured to another nearby pinball machine.
OK, so this automatically tells you that you have a wiring issue
Job #1, test the outlet that the games are plugged into. Unplug any other load from the wall and test:
Quoted from sbmania:It would do this even when turned off and plugged into a surge protector which itself was turned off.
This is our 2nd important clue
The switch on a Surge Protector only cuts the HOT Wire (black wire) on and off. It does not switch the Ground or the Neutral (white wire)
So if the game still has voltage, even though the power strip is OFF, that tells us you have 115vac on the Neutral wire.
-
Go test your wall outlets and report back....
@vid1900, once again I seek your wisdom.
In your early Bally diagram, you show your line filter having line coming in on the top, load coming out the bottom. Out the line side, you can see the BLUE wire connects to WHITE on the wiring harness, and the BROWN wire connects to BLACK on the wiring harness. Here's your photo:
18ba8a71ef8960a9b7c96afb4ab8a440e957c307 (resized).jpg
In my 1979 Bally Future Spa, you can see it looks almost exactly alike...except: Note that the BLUE wire coming out the left LINE side of the filter connector connects to BLACK, and the BROWN wire coming out the right side of the filter connects to WHITE:
I'm now replacing the power cord, the line filter, the varistor. Here is where I am now:
You can see I have white/neutral coming in on the left, black/hot coming in on the right, ground in middle... but now I'm a little nervous about where to put the black and white leads coming out the other side. My instinct says black to black, white to white, but the color mixup above makes me less confident. Thoughts?
Quoted from vid1900:OK, so this automatically tells you that you have a wiring issue
Job #1, test the outlet that the games are plugged into. Unplug any other load from the wall and test:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945125This is our 2nd important clue
The switch on a Surge Protector only cuts the HOT Wire (black wire) on and off. It does not switch the Ground or the Neutral (white wire)
So if the game still has voltage, even though the power strip is OFF, that tells us you have 115vac on the Neutral wire.
-
Go test your wall outlets and report back....
Finally found the problem. The power strip the game was plugged into had a loose ground plug. I replaced the power strip and everything is fine now.
Not sure why the faulty power strip ground plug would allow 110v from the game that was plugged into it to flow to other games plugged into other wall sockets via the metal trim? Any ideas? I thought usually you would see 50v with a bad ground plug, not 110.
Quoted from vid1900:The switch on a Surge Protector only cuts the HOT Wire (black wire) on and off. It does not switch the Ground or the Neutral (white wire)
So if the game still has voltage, even though the power strip is OFF, that tells us you have 115vac on the Neutral wire.
Quoted from sbmania:Finally found the problem. The power strip the game was plugged into had a loose ground plug. I replaced the power strip and everything is fine now.
Not sure why the faulty power strip ground plug would allow 110v from the game that was plugged into it to flow to other games plugged into other wall sockets via the metal trim? Any ideas? I thought usually you would see 50v with a bad ground plug, not 110.
A faulty ground plug cannot cause the issues you described. If you have not confirmed your wall outlets are wired correctly you should do so.
Quoted from sbmania:Finally found the problem. The power strip the game was plugged into had a loose ground plug. I replaced the power strip and everything is fine now.
Not sure why the faulty power strip ground plug would allow 110v from the game that was plugged into it to flow to other games plugged into other wall sockets via the metal trim? Any ideas? I thought usually you would see 50v with a bad ground plug, not 110.
Like YeOld said, you have not found the real problem yet.
The power strip **might** have been wired wrong internally, but that is so remote of a possibility, that I can't even think about it (unless it's an old metal one that has real Duplex outlets in it.
Do you have a multimeter?
If you do, do this test, it's important:
Do both sockets in the Duplex.
Can a Receptable Line Filter (example part at Marco: 5102-15493-00). replace the line filter, thermistor and varistor in WMS power boxes?
Quoted from driskel:Can a Receptable Line Filter (example part at Marco: 5102-15493-00). replace the line filter, thermistor and varistor in WMS power boxes?
I do not see any problems, but the thermistor and varistor are not integrated and have to be added separately.
Quoted from german-pinball:I do not see any problems, but the thermistor and varistor are not integrated and have to be added separately.
Thank you. That was my exact question.
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