(Topic ID: 199766)

Replacing Eyelets on PCB's

By hocuslocus

6 years ago



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#1 6 years ago

ok, I've replaced quite a few caps by now. I'm no expert, but am always striving to try to learn something new.

I was trying to get a TOM, location ready and decided to go ahead an replace all the E caps. After I finished with the power driver I noticed I wasn't getting 5volts. After a little while, I traced it down to the top and bottom of C5 positive not making a connection. I've never seen this happen before. was as careful as I always am with this stuff.

anyone have any tips on replacing the eyelet or would you even recommend going that far. I'm pretty sure that C5 isn't the only one that got ripped out, since there are only 10 eyelets, I figured I'd replace them all but I've never done it before. Mainly wanted to see if anyone else has been down this route. I'm actually kind of happy this happened, been wanting to learn this part of pcb repair.

#2 6 years ago

A lot of people run some bare wire through the hole and solder it both sides. So you have through board continuity.

LTG : )

#3 6 years ago

I highly recommend reading through Terry B's Guide to soldering: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

Great walk through everything you need to know about soldering and has some great pages on "advanced" topics such as through hole repairs: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1/page/4#post-2774270

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#4 6 years ago

There are eyelet kits that you can get, but you will need to practice. There are several sizes, and tools range from the simple (anvil used with a hammer) to automatic presses with solder balls.

There's more to it than just sinking in an eyelet - they are kind of like a rivet, but you need to make sure the electrical connection is solid. Ideally, the eyelet rolls onto a trace with an eyelet, and the eyelet you just placed is tight, and has no cracks. (When you anchor the eyelet, you're stretching the metal, so if not done right, the metal will "tear", leaving voids).

To me, its been easier to use stitches than try to use eyelets. If you want to try eyelets, check Newark or Mouser, and prepare to be overwhelmed.

#5 6 years ago

i vote for just using a clipped component lead to stitch continuity from top to bottom. You can scrape away some solder mask on the top and bottom to give you more to solder onto.

#6 6 years ago

And depending on the trace layout, if there is a trace above and below the open pad in question, you can also drill a small hole through the board piercing both traces, scratch a small amount of solder mask away, and then solder a wire lead from top to bottom thereby joining the two traces (top and bottom) to each other without worrying about if your stitch lead that passes through the component hole remains soldered to the top side when you solder in the component. This way, you avoid any unsightly jumper wires.

Of course, this only works if you can find an area where there are two traces directly above and below on the board which should normally be electrically connected.

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