Centaur
Bally, 1981
Space Invaders
Bally, 1980I'll soon be replacing some connectors on both a Space Invaders and a Centaur, and I see in addition to the .156 connectors that there are some smaller ones as well, that are reddish-brown in color. Can someone tell me what size I need to order for these?
.100 Order in bulk from Great Plains.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=35
Dang, I should have ordered .100's too when I ordered a slew of .156's last year, but I had no idea I'd be picking up a couple of Ballys.
I have an HT-225D crimper that worked great on those .156 a few months ago, any reason to think it wouldn't work just as well on these?
I am not familiar with the HT-225D specifically, but you you need a crimper with a small anvil to do the .100" contacts.
I think my crimper is 1026-CT, not sure how dif the 1028-CT is, but i totally recommend it. People like the more expensive crimpers because the do both the insulation and wire at the same time, but i prefer doing them individually. Gives more flexibility with making a good crimp across all insulation and wire sizes.
It is super hard to crimp a thin gauge wire into a 1.56" crimp with the crimpers that do the both crimps at the same time. The other side is i can more easily double crimp a passthrough style contact with the 1026-CT as well.
Great, I love not having to buy a new tool just for one specific thing. P.S. Vid, I sent you a question in your flipper guide a few days ago.
On a related note, I was just looking through pix I took of Space Invaders and noticed a burned connector on the power supply. This is a .156, correct?
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:That is a virgin looking pwr supply. Both guards still in place.
One of the header wafers is black colored. That means someone had that rectifier board out.... and actually put the gaurds back on them!
I am kind of guilty about that... i leave them on the rectifier board, but i always shit can the HV one of the driver board.
Quoted from jibmums:Great, I love not having to buy a new tool just for one specific thing. P.S. Vid, I sent you a question in your flipper guide a few days ago.
On a related note, I was just looking through pix I took of Space Invaders and noticed a burned connector on the power supply. This is a .156, correct?burned.jpg
Very common on the old Ballys
While you're at it, you might want to consider replacing the bridge rectifiers while you're at it. Ed @ GPE sells upgraded ones.
Quoted from jibmums:I have an HT-225D crimper that worked great on those .156 a few months ago, any reason to think it wouldn't work just as well on these?
I have the same crimper and it work very well on both. I am not sure how I managed without it before.
Quoted from jibmums:I'll soon be replacing some connectors on both a Space Invaders and a Centaur, and I see in addition to the .156 connectors that there are some smaller ones as well, that are reddish-brown in color. Can someone tell me what size I need to order for these?
I wouldn't replace just some of them. Replace all of them and be done with it.
I usually do a bunch and then take a break and then come back and do some more until I finally have them all replaced. That way you don't get a backache.
It only takes a few hours and after you get practice it goes even faster.
I also have one of the ratcheting crimpers. They work great once you're able to get everything in the jaws without dropping the pin or something. Is it just me? Anybody willing to provide some pictures on the least awkward way to actually hold everything while crimping? I'm sure I'm missing something obvious.
Quoted from aobrien5:I also have one of the ratcheting crimpers. They work great once you're able to get everything in the jaws without dropping the pin or something. Is it just me? Anybody willing to provide some pictures on the least awkward way to actually hold everything while crimping? I'm sure I'm missing something obvious.
I don't think so. I would really like to just try out those high zoot $300 Molex crimpers just to see if they really are that much better.
Quoted from aobrien5:Anybody willing to provide some pictures on the least awkward way to actually hold everything while crimping?
For me I put the pin in to the tool an ratchet down just enough to hold it in place. I insert the wire and then squeeze the rest of the way. Rinse and repeat.
Quoted from WonkoTSane:For me I put the pin in to the tool an ratchet down just enough to hold it in place. I insert the wire and then squeeze the rest of the way. Rinse and repeat.
Yup, that's the simple thing I was missing. Awesome, thank you.
Bite the bullet and replace all connectors in the back box when your refurbing any early SS bally. Use trifuicon pins for the .156 connectors and it should just about eliminate the commonly burned pins on the power supply board.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-connectors-on-early-bally-ss and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Corpus Christi, TX
Sana'a