(Topic ID: 167125)

Replacing battery and dallas chip question

By DarthArma

7 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by barakandl
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#1 7 years ago

So i bought my first pin. Surf n safari, It wasnt exactly what i was looking for, but it was too cheap to say no to. I knew going into this, the machine was reading an error code when plugged in, "low battery or bad U6 or U3" so after researching, it most likely needed a new battery. I bought the battery and the holder for it, waiting for it to get soldered by my uncle who can solder since im a little inexperienced with soldering something so small, ive soldered fighting game arcade sticks before, but those parts are alot bigger and easier to see and make sense of. So after i took the board out, i noticed that a few things around it seemed like they might be possibly damaged, but im not sure as this is my first pin, hopefully someone on here is nice enough to give me their opinion and share their wisdom.

I also cant seem to find a replacement dallas chip for U6 with the exact numbers that are on the chip, is there a specific site i should be looking at? I looked on marco but cant seem to find it.

C3 resistor...i think thats what its called, also looks a little damaged, but i have no idea how to figure out what resistor it is, how would i go about finding more information on this?

Thanks in advance!!

#2 7 years ago

There is a parts list for each board in the manual.

Can you post good, clear photos of the board you're working on?

Board work is a bit more specialized than wiring for arcade sticks, and you really need a temperature-controlled soldering iron and desoldering iron to avoid causing more damage. A cheap pencil soldering iron from radioshack won't do the trick here.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Soldering_Irons
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Tools

For supplies:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Parts_Suppliers

For electronics components, there are a variety of sources, such as greatplainselectroincs.com, mouser.com, digikey.com, jameco.com

#3 7 years ago
Quoted from DarthArma:

C3 resistor...i think thats what its called, also looks a little damaged, but i have no idea how to figure out what resistor it is, how would i go about finding more information on this?
Thanks in advance!!

Parts labeled Cxx are generally capacitors. Resistors are generally labeled Rxx. You need a manual. The pinwiki has good photos of your boards and great info: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3

Pinball Resource probably has your manual available: http://www.pbresource.com/mansch.html
I suggest you email Jimmy and ask.

Quoted from DarthArma:

I bought the battery and the holder for it, waiting for it to get soldered...

If there was no battery holder what happened to it? Maybe someone already upgraded the game to not need a battery. Some upgrades only store the settings for a few months without power.

Is the game playable?

#4 7 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Parts labeled Cxx are generally capacitors. Resistors are generally labeled Rxx. You need a manual. The pinwiki has good photos of your boards and great info: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3
Pinball Resource probably has your manual available: http://www.pbresource.com/mansch.html
I suggest you email Jimmy and ask.

If there was no battery holder what happened to it? Maybe someone already upgraded the game to not need a battery. Some upgrades only store the settings for a few months without power.
Is the game playable?

Thank for the great info, i guess i still have more to research, im gonna hold off on soldering the battery. The original battery is still in there, soldered in, so the holder i was going to solder in was just to upgrade it to make replacing the battery easier when this new one goes. Im gonna have a technician in my area work on the machine, i dont want to risk damaging a board i cant really find easily.

The machine does not play, it only gives me the error code i described in the original post here. Again thank you so much! I really appreciate the feedback and information

#5 7 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

There is a parts list for each board in the manual.
Can you post good, clear photos of the board you're working on?
Board work is a bit more specialized than wiring for arcade sticks, and you really need a temperature-controlled soldering iron and desoldering iron to avoid causing more damage. A cheap pencil soldering iron from radioshack won't do the trick here.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Soldering_Irons
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Tools
For supplies:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Parts_Suppliers
For electronics components, there are a variety of sources, such as greatplainselectroincs.com, mouser.com, digikey.com, jameco.com

As i stated before, i really appreciate all the info, i told my uncle to hold off on soldering for now, im almost positive im gonna reach out to a technician, but i might consider getting a good solder to try to learn how to do it myself. Is changing a battery difficult, i have limited soldering experience as i stated in the original post. Thanks again

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from DarthArma:

As i stated before, i really appreciate all the info, i told my uncle to hold off on soldering for now, im almost positive im gonna reach out to a technician, but i might consider getting a good solder to try to learn how to do it myself. Is changing a battery difficult, i have limited soldering experience as i stated in the original post. Thanks again

It's best to practice on a junk board, rather than a board you actually care about. System 3 boards have been getting difficult to obtain. Grab some junk electronics from a garage sale or goodwill shop or something.

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

It's best to practice on a junk board, rather than a board you actually care about. System 3 boards have been getting difficult to obtain. Grab some junk electronics from a garage sale or goodwill shop or something.

I thought I put these pictures up on my original post, I guess I shouldn't post from my cell phone. Anyway here are the pictures.

I also heard taking pictures of the board is not good, is that true? I already took alot, lol. Just hope I didnt do too much damage or any damage at all.

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#8 7 years ago
Quoted from DarthArma:

I also heard taking pictures of the board is not good, is that true? I already took alot, lol. Just hope I didnt do too much damage or any damage at all.

No. However, the window on the EPROM at U2 is uncovered, and exposing that to UV light will wipe the data on that chip. Put a label or piece of electrical tape over it.

As for the battery, it has leaked. It looks like you will need to replace the battery, U6, C3, and possibly U3, as well has properly treat and clean the leaking material.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

No. However, the window on the EPROM at U2 is uncovered, and exposing that to UV light will wipe the data on that chip. Put a label or piece of electrical tape over it.
As for the battery, it has leaked. It looks like you will need to replace the battery, U6, C3, and possibly U3, as well has properly treat and clean the leaking material.

How do I properly clean the leaking material? what kind of cleaner should I use?

#10 7 years ago

The game has been plugged in before I bought it, and after I purchased it to verify the code. Would I be doing anymore harm if I replaced the battery without replacing the DS1210 chip or the resistor at C3? I can probably find the resistor, but I'm not having any luck locating that exact DS1210-9049C1 chip anywhere online. According to the pinwiki of the system at the link, section 4.6.1 http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3

"Although rage, it is possible for a lithium battery to begin leaking and corrode the MPU board. In the picture at left, the CR2430 OEM battery has breached it's seal and begun to leak. This one was removed before it caused serious damage to the MPU board. Unfortunately, the IC just south of this battery is the obsolete and hard to find DS1210 power control IC. "

Am I just not searching for this the right way? or are these really not around anymore?

#12 7 years ago

Thank you so much.

So do the numbers after DS1210 signify anything? The one on my board says "DS1210 9049C1" so I searched for the whole thing.

thanks again, I'm very new to this and appreciate any help

#13 7 years ago

wow... that lithium battery leaked. luckily it doesnt look like it caused much damage

http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS1210.pdf

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from DarthArma:

How do I properly clean the leaking material? what kind of cleaner should I use?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

Quoted from DarthArma:

Thank you so much.
So do the numbers after DS1210 signify anything? The one on my board says "DS1210 9049C1" so I searched for the whole thing.
thanks again, I'm very new to this and appreciate any help

It's likely a manufacturing code of some sort--not part of the part number.

#15 7 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

It's likely a manufacturing code of some sort--not part of the part number.

the numbers after the chip is date code and then lot code.

9049 means it was manufactured in the 49th week of 1990.

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