Just curious, does anyone sell reproduction backboxes? If so, how much?
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I was thinking maybe there's a business opportunity offering repro backboxes, broken down in an Ikea-style flatpack for ease of shipping. Made from the correct woods, etc.
Hard for the receiver to glue up nice and square though.
Is that your work or the cabinet guy? That's a small fortune invested in parallel clamps! I'm going to have to settle for pipe clamps on my upcoming cab glue-up.
Sure, if you're making one might as well bang out another few, if there's demand. I don't personally need one, but it would be a great resource. My 64 Gottlieb BB was all solid poplar glued up from 6"+ wide pieces. I wonder when plywood took over.
Btw what kind of cab is that? Looks like varnished wood. Is that original? I think it would be neat to concoct a "fine woodworking" pinball, maybe a steampunk brass and mahogany kinda deal.
Very nice! Never seen a Flipper Cowboy in person.
As much as I like natural wood, it just looks wrong on a pin.
Quoted from pinhead52:For the kit? Maybe $90. Once you have all the pieces cut it doesnt take much. However the kit is really not to feasible. The face goes on last and a router is used to cut it down to the shape, may be a little tricky to cut face exact before hand.
Yeah, it might be hard to make a kit work. Easier to just ship the thing already assembled - no risk of things not lining up.
Maybe depends on the type of backbox? My '64 Big Top bb is a relatively sophisticated piece of woodworking, and the solid wood construction probably needed final adjusting due to moisture content differences, knot holes, etc.
Did the later, all-ply cabs get simpler for ease of assembly (i.e. less labor)? My '67 Sing Along is still solid wood, but simpler than the 64.
Wow Steve, I hadn't seen your Target Pool resto - great work, holy crap! I'm headed in the same direction hopefully with my Big Top - cab wood repair/replace, repaint, webbing, everything.
My head had similar moisture problems, but with solid wood swelling at the edges instead of plywood delamination. I opted to keep the original wood and plane it flat again (jointer made is easy), but I would have swapped in new wood with no regrets. It did require some bondo to get it smooth again, also to fill other voids & dings. I expect you'd have to slather a few pounds of bondo to get any noticeable difference in acoustics, but to each their own. I prefer a smooth-ish finish if I'm going to go the effort, and I consider I'm bringing this thing back from the dead anyway - the damage done before I got there!
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