Piershil
Also check D5 thru D8.
Those are the rectifiers for the HV section.
Your voltage isn't getting high enough.
(Topic ID: 231618)
Linked Games
Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987
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Quoted from jlbintn:Anyway, metered D5-D8 with power off and unplugged. They metered within specs - .5 on all - and null with leads reversed.
Could I use 4007's instead of 4004's, if I ever have to replace them?
Yes, you can.
The 1N4007 can handle higher reverse voltage (1000V) than the 1N4004 (400V).
Both are just fine choices, which ever are available.
Diode_datasheet.pdf 1 week later
4 years later
Quoted from XPinPinball:I am back looking into this again with my latest revision of the XP-BLY6803. An orange set in my Motordome, and definitely not sure as to the problem that OP is seeing...yet. OP is using a Weebly MPU where my Motordome is an original. I have never been one to point fingers and I am not going to now. Having been doing pinball boards for 13 yrs now and I am constantly surprised.
Lately it seems as more of us are having to do the re-engineering, we are often coming up to some incompatibility issues with each others aftermarket boards. I am wondering if this might be the case. I have reached out to Weebly asking for some insight as to the schematic and components. It may be something as simple as LS vs HC vs HCT vs LCV logic families, wrong size pull-up/down resistors, or signal series resistors. Once I get the information, I can dive into this more. This kind of forensic engineering is what keeps me going here and supporting this hobby. Who knows what has happened in the last 40 yrs to these games and what has been done to keep them running.
I've had a problem with original displays and the display definitely need to use high speed chips on board.
Read my ordeal in this topic: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-6803-club-all-welcome/page/15#post-7454178
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