It should work. Verify continuity from the switch to ground and to CPU pin 4. If everything makes it where it is supposed to go, here is a possible clue:

"My Stern Sea Witch with a M-200 MPU has a problem where it will not boot on occassion. Also the bookkeeping and high score reset button has no effect. There is no MPU board corrosion, and the reset section of the MPU has been totally replaced."
This person solved their problem by replacing the U9 6800 CPU chip. Apparently the NMI (non-maskable interupt) circuit inside the CPU chip was damaged, maybe by static from a poorly grounded coin door. This CPU problem did not show itself immediately, and let the MPU board function for the most part. The non-functioning reset switch was the give-away here, since this switch connects to the NMI circuit on the CPU chip."

It could be a stretch here, as far as a bad CPU goes, I know. If it were me, I'd be concerned of what else might be problematic if the CPU IC itself has a defect. You can also directly ground the NMI reset pin 4 on the CPU to simulate the switch circuit.

Direct to ground means using a suitable jumper wire to temporarily short the NMI reset pin to of the CUP to ground. You have to be careful to make sure you don't short to adjacent pins. I use an alligator clip lead with one end attached to ground and the other alligator clipped to a trimmed lead from a typical 1/4 watt resistor. Touch that to the NMI pin for about a second.

The unregulated input high voltage in can be as high as 244vdc, that's not a problem. The regulated high voltage out is more important and should be between 170-190VDC (TP2)

Not sure if you fixed the display issue, FWIW I have had this issue of the strobing displays and it was the 160uf 350v cap on the power pcb. Replaced it with >> ebay.com link: HIGH TEMP 105 DEG 160UF 400 VOLT AXIAL REPLACEMENT 350 VOLT AXIAL CAP

Display oower is pretty much a go/no go test. If you've got 170vdc at the displays then you still need all the data to make them work properly

So this was never resolved? Damn…. Having the display issue with a brand new weebly mpu and new xpin displays. The machine had neither so i have no reference points.

I am back looking into this again with my latest revision of the XP-BLY6803. An orange set in my Motordome, and definitely not sure as to the problem that OP is seeing...yet. OP is using a Weebly MPU where my Motordome is an original. I have never been one to point fingers and I am not going to now. Having been doing pinball boards for 13 yrs now and I am constantly surprised.

Lately it seems as more of us are having to do the re-engineering, we are often coming up to some incompatibility issues with each others aftermarket boards. I am wondering if this might be the case. I have reached out to Weebly asking for some insight as to the schematic and components. It may be something as simple as LS vs HC vs HCT vs LCV logic families, wrong size pull-up/down resistors, or signal series resistors. Once I get the information, I can dive into this more. This kind of forensic engineering is what keeps me going here and supporting this hobby. Who knows what has happened in the last 40 yrs to these games and what has been done to keep them running.

I have original boards in my Motordome, orange Xpins, and Andrew’s boards on hand to perform an “upgrade”. I’ll advise if my orange displays encounter any issues once I get Andrew’s boards installed. This never crossed my mind as a possibility, but we’ll see (should be this weekend).

I've had a problem with original displays and the display definitely need to use high speed chips on board.
Read my ordeal in this topic: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-6803-club-all-welcome/page/15#post-7454178

Peter

There is zero difference in any display circuitry the stock 6803 board and the new replacement. Should be no compatibility issues with replacement displays.

Agreeing with this after speaking to you and doing a little bit more work with OP. Some more back and forth and it is heavily leaning towards the IDC connectors that are having issues. Doing pin 1-1 continuity testing between the displays are indicating that this is not the case on the pins that should be 1-1. Inspection shows we might have issues that occurred with push/pull on the connections. More to come!

Solid state pinball repair guide:
Step 1 - Rebuild all the connectors.
Step 2 - Go back and rebuild all the connectors you skipped in step one.

Amen. It is a shitty job to do, but really needed on a lot of games.

I get a lot of "I replaced all the circuit boards in my bally game, but it still doesnt work!". Connectors connectors connectors....

or

"the display is counting only even digits, I think the ROM is corrupted!" connectors connectors connectors.. they are a bid headache.

Apologies for the delay. Installed @Barakandl’s PCBs while utilizing @XPinPinball’s orange LED displays in my 6803 Motordome. Zero issues. Displays working flawlessly. Camera didn’t capture full text, but a seamless system

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