(Topic ID: 287373)

Replacement Bally Rectifier Board AS-2518-49

By RDBowers

3 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by pindude80
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Which rectifier would you recommend?”

  • Pinhead Electronics (Pinball Resources) 2 votes
    13%
  • XPin (Big Daddy Electronics) 1 vote
    7%
  • Pin-Tek (K's Arcade.Net) 0 votes
  • Gulf Pinball (K's Arcade.Net) 0 votes
  • NVRAM.weebly.com (aka barakandl) 9 votes
    60%
  • Anarchy PCB (Pinball Life) 3 votes
    20%

(15 votes)

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#12 3 years ago

There's more here than just wire mounts. Somebody needs to do some brute force comparisons on these.
For proper evaluation - you must know the components by mfr and specs. Several do not provide enough info to do a thorough evaluation.

Personally, I prefer soldered connections for the wires, how often do you really plan on changing this board? Spring loaded wire clips - would you be willing to risk these springs going bad due to heat and age over the years?

Fuse clips -- did they use high current fuse clips for all fuses? Or only for select fuses? For any of the fuses? Cheap Chinese fuse clips? No future Data East fuse clip problems in the works?

Test points -- just a pad or hole in the board? Or is there are a real test point that you can probe or clip onto? Real test points are less than 5c each. Why sell a board for $60 or more if you scrimp on less than 30 cents worth of parts?

Board composition -- can it withstand full current load capabilities?
Some of these board makers do not specify copper thickness. Is the copper sized in accordance with Mil-Std-275? (Now part of IPC commercial specs but I cannot remember spec number off the top of my head)
A 20 amp fuse requires a minimum thickness of of 2 ounce copper plus very, very wide traces (about 150 mils or more). And a preferred thickness of 3 or 4 ounces.

Did they completely eliminate relying on the top of board solder pads for connecting to the headers? This was a major source of problems for the old original rectifier boards.

Any thermal reduction such as oversized (e.g. 15W) resistors? Or did they go to hugely increased snubber resistor value to reduce heat but also reduce effectiveness?

Heat sinks on all bridges? Or just BR1? Are the bridge rectifier heat sinks sufficient? Should be a thermal resistance of less than 10. Standard TO-220 transistor heat sinks used by some are too small and are > 13. Note that one of the boards went with discrete diodes for the two lower current bridges. Although this does not allow heat sinking - it is still a valid idea as the overall heat per device is reduced by distributing the heat amongst four devices. This was one of the better changes that Williams made with their WPC95 power driver board.

How about liability issues? Did they make an attempt to at least make the 120VAC stuff somewhat protected? Or wide open for all fingers? Did they put fuse condoms on the fuses? If so - some of us know what happens to these cheap protectors when the fuses heat up.

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