EDIT: I've solved this!! Scroll down to see the working Molex 508 KK series that's a direct replacement. HUGE thanks to Ken for leading me down the path of the KK series.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-10-circuit-connectors#post-6116654

--------------------Original Post-------------------

I've recently got myself into a 1978 Playmatic Chance, (something I couldn't pass up, as "Chance" is my first name).

I'm in the middle of getting everything back up into working condition and I've run into a little wall with some connectors in the box.

I'm looking for a modern replacement, doesn't have to be exactly the same pins and connector, but something that will fit. I can always cut and crimp on new pins. Looks to be 0.2 on center, 8 and 10 circuit. Doesn't need to have that "key" on one end. Anyone have any ideas?

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Haha! Yep, starting to be a pain in the dick for sure.

Nope no markings at all. I took a few more pics of one of the connectors and its header. Let me know what you guys think.

Plan A: replace the connector
Plan B: replace the header so I can use a different connector.

I'd rather not use Plan B, it seems like it's asking for trouble.

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Pins are approximately 0.06" in diameter, and approximately 0.260" long. I say approximately because it's a bit hard to get the digital caliper in there to measure.

I've taken a better look around the cab, primarily I need 8 Circuit connectors, a few 6 Circuit, a couple of 7 and even 2 Circuit. There's one 6 Circuit one that has a larger gap in the middle between the 2 sets of three.

Major priority is still the dozen 8 circuit ones.

Anyone realistically think that they could fabricate something with a 3D printer using a more standard molex pin?

I can take the measurement as soon as I get back to the house.

So the general consensus so far is that these molex parts will be my best bet:

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0010013086_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0010321081_PCB_HEADERS.xml

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0008701031_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml

I am. It's still awkward to get in beside the pin with how it's arranged to n it's spot. I'm gonna pull that PCB out soon because I'm starting to think I'll need to put new headers on it anyways.

What do you guys think for those molex parts I listed above? I'm thinking the next step is to order what I need of those from mouser and see if the headers will be a good replacement. Actually, I might just pull the PCB and compare it to the drawing on molex.com

Still nothing.

I can't find any decent pricing for a similar Molex KK series header that's being discontinued. and I'm investigating 3D printing new ones. A buddy of mine just picked up a really particular 3D printer in order to print large molex connectors for his Nintendo Red Tent, so I might go that route.

Shit, I'm really sorry guys, I haven't seen this thread in a LONG time.

I've solved this but it take a bit of work and patience. I was 10000% correct about using the Molex KK series headers and connectors. I'd have to get the exact part numbers, but they work EXTREMELY well.

The one caution I will give is that if you're not careful these old playmatic boards seem to want to peal traces as those pins are individual through hole. Its ridiculously stupid as the pins are wedged in so tight. For one of the boards I actually started ripping them up until I got wise: I removed all the solder I could per pin, snipped the ends of the pins on both sides of the board flus with the PCB, and ever so carefully drilled out the remainder with the drill press. It was tedious, but thankfully it was a single board our of the whole pile. After I went back and did some trace repair.

Everything had to go. Every single pin on the board set, and every single wire had to get a new pin crimped and put into the right order. Thankfully the wires had a bit of memory in them, and I went one wire at a time into the connectors. You can also go with a "High Friction" pin from Molex, but honestly that's overkill.

Attached are some pictures of the work as I went. And here's a link to my Flickr gallery of the game... https://flic.kr/s/aHskttPSCb

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Heres the link to the data sheets on the 5.08mm Molex KK "508" series I used.

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family/kk_508

You'll need Crimp housings, Crimp terminals, and PCB headers.

as well as some pictures of the finished work, the data sheet for the molex, and the before pictures showing the stupid original pins and connectors.

Again, sorry for the late reply. I hope this helps you save your games.

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I just counted 2-8 circuit connectors across the boards, then that many of each for both headers and connectors. Plus pins. I also added a couple of each to break some quantity discounts and have spares.

There were a couple times when I had to remove a pin from the headers prior to installation, but I just pulled them out with needle nose. Like for instance there is a gap in a couple of the header locations in my pictures. So I pulled that pin out so it would fit on the board once the old pins were removed. .

Pins, connectors, and headers. Replace it all. My Playmatic is now 100%. Lots of work but so worth it.