Did you bump any of the connectors when removing the battery? Try reseating J210 and J211.

Yes, the game should still work, even without a battery. Usually you can just go into diagnostics and then exit to play a game. You might try gently pushing down on the large chip just to the right of the battery, with power off of course.

Yeah, it would matter. If you are missing the ground, then you would not get the voltage to the RAM that is needed to hold the settings. Actually, I don't think that battery (-) is connected in the right place.

After all that battery damage repair, I believe NVRAM is always the way to go, especially if you can solder. https://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

Yes, it should boot up fine without battery. What are the state of the 3 red LEDs on the board?

Keep in mind, the free play setting would have defaulted to coin play.

Can you add credits if you press the credit button on the coin door?

Then, close the coin door and try to start a game. Does a game start? Usually, there's an interlock switch that disables the coils when the door is open.

Ok, what do you mean by "lights come on and everything"?

Yes. That is why all the copper area is showing. Normally those areas would be covered with green masking, just like the rest of the board.

Then unplug all the ribbon cables. Does it boot now? A good boot is the middle LED would be blinking fast and the top LED will turn off. If not, press on all the socketed IC chips.

If it boots without all the ribbon cables connected, then reseat all the ribbon cable connections starting at the CPU board, making sure that the ribbon cables are not plugged in one row off.

Which lights? The inserts, or just the GI?

Hard to tell on my phone but R22 looks damaged, possibly cracked and open. I don't have schematics handy so I don't know if that would affect boot up or not but it's worth checking regardless.

The good news is that the sticker that says "That Pinball Place" most likely means that the previous work was done by John Wart Jr.
He did excellent repair work until personal issues caused him to shut down a couple years ago.

Just looked on the schematic and R22 is the pull up for the Power On Reset input, if you cracked that when replacing the battery it would stop the game from booting and there is definitely some damage to that resistor so test it with a meter.

Saw that as well but wasn’t sure. If not that, could the reset generator have been bumped?

Battery orientation looks Ok to me too.

I'm thinking bobukcat is on the right track here. It certainly looks like R22 could have been damaged in the process of removing the battery, especially if it was difficult.

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Yes. That one will work. It is guaranteed to be 2%, which is better than the 5% mentioned in the manual.

So it measures open?

Bust out that desoldering gun and install the new one. Sounds like you found the problem. Resistors don't have a "polarity" so you can install it in either orientation.

This is how all Pinside troubleshooting posts should be. Well described issue with decent pics, some eagle eye recognizes an issue, people confirm this could be the problem. OP fixes problem, fixes game. Reports back to Pinside (this is the one everyone skips), everyone is happy. Well documented for the archives.

When I install the coin batter holders .

I use a flat file to bevel the edges on the side of the holder that faces the resistor and transistor so that you do not damage or even touch the two with the holder.

The Transistor legs can easily be damaged when installing the holder.

You will be amazed how far you can bevel the holder before cutting through.

and marks thread “resolved” so future readers know a solution was found.

THAT's a good call..

joekiss , go to your original post and click the edit button. That will allow you to edit the title, and place something like ** FIXED ** in the title so future members with your exact same problem know there is a resolution in the thread.

Fingers Crossed this is what just happened to my Judge Dredd when attempting to relocate the battery tray.

Now I just have to find out what part I need.

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Parts - U16 and U20 have some damage, and maybe other areas below the battery holder area.

LTG : )

LTG is correct. Look at the green corrosion between pins 1 & 2 of the U20 chip (green = copper corrosion).

If you can see this here there is guaranteed to be more UNDER the chips - probably a LOT more.

I think your issue with this board is a lot more serious than the OP's issue.