If you replace bridge rectifier BR2 with a brand new one (as shown in the picture), does rectifier BR1 have to be the same type? I replaced BR2 today on my machine and I put the board back in, put the connectors back, turned the machine on, and nothing turned on. I tried the same process again, but still nothing. I only replaced BR2, but does BR1 have to be the same type of rectifier also?

The picture included is an example of what the new BR2 rectifier looks like. The rectifier for BR1 (non-replaced one) looks like the one with the white background.
200px-WPC_Brdg_1and2_Removed3 (resized).jpgkbpc3506w-bridge-rectifier-35-amp-600-volt (resized).jpg

I made sure to label each connector and made sure to put them back in the same spot. As far as I can tell, each leg is getting the correct voltage. I made sure to follow this pattern.

TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps (resized).jpg

It's weird because the voltages all work on both rectifiers. For all I know, if might be a cap as well. I don't think that the heating compound for the rectifier would affect it.

What in the world is a 5 volt test point? I'm new to these types of machines and don't know a lot about them.

Good call. I'll just find someone who is more familiar with these machines to fix it.

When I bought this machine, which is a JackBot, I knew that it would need some work. I'm familiar with EM games and I was ready to try something new, so I went looking for a machine. I managed to buy it for a bargain, and I noticed some work straight away. Nothing I haven't done before, such as changing bulbs, rubber, etc. The playfield was extremely dirty, but I managed to get it back to it's former glory. After changing the bulbs, I noticed that the flashers and a strand of lights in the backbox didn't work. I noticed that a certain fuse keeps blowing, which is F108 on the machine, and I haven't been able to locate the culprit. Now this problem? It all happened when I change the rubber on the machine. One day it worked fine, then the next day the lights under the playfield didn't come on. Then the common "check fuses F114 an F115" error message popped up in the display. I've been following a PinWiki article and started with checking the fuses. They weren't blown. I then read that the bridge rectifiers on these Williams/Bally machines of this era are prone to this problem, and that it will throw this error message. I then decided to test both rectifiers, and soon found out that BR2 had a voltage that kept going up. I also watched a similar video where a person had the same problem on a Williams Dracula. His was doing the same thing with the bridge rectifier, where the voltage will keep going up. I ordered a new rectifier to replace BR2, and then took out the old one and put the new one in. It was a different brand and looks nothing like the old one, but fits in the same way and does the same thing. After checking the rectifier after putting it in, it fixed the voltage. I went down to bridge rectifier BR1, checked it with a multimeter, and found out that it now doesn't work. It showed correct readings before I put the new rectifier for BR2 in. I took a break, came back, and it showed the correct voltage! Double checked it over and over and it worked. I put the board back in the game, connected all of the connectors (and made sure that they went into the right spot), turned the game on, and nothing turned on. I don't know where to go from here or what to check now.

I got the GI bulbs to light up! I still have the problem of the bulbs not lighting up underneath the playfield and the display glitching, but at least it gets power!