(Topic ID: 292914)

Does it matter if two bridge rectifiers are different? (On a 90's Williams)

By Mr_Pinball

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Mr_Pinball
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps (resized).jpg
    kbpc3506w-bridge-rectifier-35-amp-600-volt (resized).jpg
    200px-WPC_Brdg_1and2_Removed3 (resized).jpg
    #1 3 years ago

    If you replace bridge rectifier BR2 with a brand new one (as shown in the picture), does rectifier BR1 have to be the same type? I replaced BR2 today on my machine and I put the board back in, put the connectors back, turned the machine on, and nothing turned on. I tried the same process again, but still nothing. I only replaced BR2, but does BR1 have to be the same type of rectifier also?

    The picture included is an example of what the new BR2 rectifier looks like. The rectifier for BR1 (non-replaced one) looks like the one with the white background.
    200px-WPC_Brdg_1and2_Removed3 (resized).jpg200px-WPC_Brdg_1and2_Removed3 (resized).jpgkbpc3506w-bridge-rectifier-35-amp-600-volt (resized).jpgkbpc3506w-bridge-rectifier-35-amp-600-volt (resized).jpg

    #2 3 years ago

    The case of them can be different. They don't need to be identical. Newer ones of the same voltage tend to be slimmer.

    LTG : )

    #3 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    but does BR1 have to be the same type of rectifier also?

    No.

    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    turned the machine on, and nothing

    Something else going on.

    All connectors back on right ? Didn't lose through board continuity on BR2's legs ? 5 volt test point showing 5 volts ?

    LTG : )

    #4 3 years ago

    I made sure to label each connector and made sure to put them back in the same spot. As far as I can tell, each leg is getting the correct voltage. I made sure to follow this pattern.

    TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps (resized).jpgTestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps (resized).jpg
    #5 3 years ago

    These bridge rectifiers have an offset pin so it's almost impossible to insert them incorrectly.

    #6 3 years ago

    It's weird because the voltages all work on both rectifiers. For all I know, if might be a cap as well. I don't think that the heating compound for the rectifier would affect it.

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    each leg is getting the correct voltage. I made sure to follow this pattern.

    I'd grab a meter and check each bridge rectifier leg from the leg on the component side of the board to a solder joint away from the repair area on the solder side of the board.

    LTG : )

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    if might be a cap as well.

    Don't, you'll risk further damage.

    What does your 5 volt test point show ?

    LTG : )

    #9 3 years ago

    What in the world is a 5 volt test point? I'm new to these types of machines and don't know a lot about them.

    -1
    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    What in the world is a 5 volt test point? I'm new to these types of machines and don't know a lot about them.

    WOW!

    I think you should step away from the machine and do some RESEARCH before you destroy the machine or hurt yourself.

    PLEASE read ALL of the details on PinWiki about repairing these machines BEFORE going anywhere near the machine - PLEASE!!!!

    #11 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    What in the world is a 5 volt test point?

    On the driver board are little metal studs sticking up labeled things like TP1, TP2, etc. etc. and next to them a number for voltage like 5 or 12, or 50, etc. etc.

    Take heed of pins4u 's post.

    You'll be glad you did.

    LTG : )

    #12 3 years ago

    Good call. I'll just find someone who is more familiar with these machines to fix it.

    #13 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    Good call. I'll just find someone who is more familiar with these machines to fix it.

    Sure, you can do that. Be mindful that it will probably get VERY expensive, VERY quickly.

    If you need to call a tech for every job you might quickly realise that pinball ownership isn't for you.

    Why not study up a bit and at least gain the knowledge to tackle simple issues?

    #14 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Pinball:

    I'll just find someone who is more familiar with these machines to fix it.

    Hopefully hook up with a local collector that can assist you.

    LTG : )

    #15 3 years ago

    Didn’t you originally have a fuse that was blowing? How did you narrow it down to the bridge in the first place as the source of the issue??

    #16 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    Didn’t you originally have a fuse that was blowing? How did you narrow it down to the bridge in the first place as the source of the issue??

    When I bought this machine, which is a JackBot, I knew that it would need some work. I'm familiar with EM games and I was ready to try something new, so I went looking for a machine. I managed to buy it for a bargain, and I noticed some work straight away. Nothing I haven't done before, such as changing bulbs, rubber, etc. The playfield was extremely dirty, but I managed to get it back to it's former glory. After changing the bulbs, I noticed that the flashers and a strand of lights in the backbox didn't work. I noticed that a certain fuse keeps blowing, which is F108 on the machine, and I haven't been able to locate the culprit. Now this problem? It all happened when I change the rubber on the machine. One day it worked fine, then the next day the lights under the playfield didn't come on. Then the common "check fuses F114 an F115" error message popped up in the display. I've been following a PinWiki article and started with checking the fuses. They weren't blown. I then read that the bridge rectifiers on these Williams/Bally machines of this era are prone to this problem, and that it will throw this error message. I then decided to test both rectifiers, and soon found out that BR2 had a voltage that kept going up. I also watched a similar video where a person had the same problem on a Williams Dracula. His was doing the same thing with the bridge rectifier, where the voltage will keep going up. I ordered a new rectifier to replace BR2, and then took out the old one and put the new one in. It was a different brand and looks nothing like the old one, but fits in the same way and does the same thing. After checking the rectifier after putting it in, it fixed the voltage. I went down to bridge rectifier BR1, checked it with a multimeter, and found out that it now doesn't work. It showed correct readings before I put the new rectifier for BR2 in. I took a break, came back, and it showed the correct voltage! Double checked it over and over and it worked. I put the board back in the game, connected all of the connectors (and made sure that they went into the right spot), turned the game on, and nothing turned on. I don't know where to go from here or what to check now.

    #17 3 years ago

    Bridge rectifiers are rated by voltage and amperage. A KBPC3506W, like it says right on the side, is rated at 35 amps and 600 volts. If you Google KBPC3506W data sheet, you can see for yourself. The part numbers for the originals are in the parts book, but don't bother looking. The KBPC3506W is almost overrated for the job. Use with confidence. Lightly scrape the legs with a blade before soldering to remove any oxidation and get the best connection possible.

    The through whole connections can get dicey with bridges. If you're completely missing a voltage somewhere, buzz out all the paths on the board.

    #19 3 years ago

    Don't shoot the messenger here!

    Most of the problems I see like this with bridge rectifiers (and capacitors) is that the person replacing them breaks the connection between the top and bottom layers of the board...most of these folks have jumper wires in their future.

    #20 3 years ago

    I got the GI bulbs to light up! I still have the problem of the bulbs not lighting up underneath the playfield and the display glitching, but at least it gets power!

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.