Did you replace an IDC connector with another IDC connector?

You should replace them with molex connectors.

In any case, to test, plug in both ends to the board, and do a continuity test from the closest through-holes on the boards to the pins you want to test.

IDC connectors are generally unreliable.

No offense, but saying theyre generally unreliable isn't true.

You would test the female end with a continuity setting on your multimeter, but it would be a bit awkward. Just see if the lights/switches the connector is associated with works. That would be a good "test".

You should feel the wire kinda pop down into the slot if you pushed hard enough. I replace IDC with IDC cause I think it's easier and frankly, my pins aren't on a lot. I find using crimps a pita. Others will say otherwise. But to call them unreliable just isn't true.

IDC is totally fine in home setting.

What machine and what's the issue joe?

Did you replace the male part as well? If not you will need to, especially if there was corrosion. If you did, did you test for continuity? You may have ruined a through hole trace when replacing the male headers.

Yes, answer dsuperbee's question.

Also, on your other Demo Man help thread, you mentioned you thought it was indeed connector related. Have you tried wiggling the associated connectors in the cpu while the pin is on and see if you can simulateously try to get the optos to fire? (I'm trying to see if this is indeed connector related).

So when you switched to other cpu boards, the optos DID work?

So connectors are indeed a possibility but moreso the male ends.

Do what I said: turn pin on. Start a game and while trying to activate an opto, wiggle the connectors in question. See if you can make a connection.

Also: did you just replace female connector ends or the male pins on The boards too?

So I would think this isn't an issue w a board then.

Have you tried to track the wiring to the Optos under the pf or looked for a separate opto board under the pf?

As blackbeard said, did you check the opto boards under the playfield? I didn't read your other thread so I don't know if you have checked that or not.

Joe: you need to be careful how you're writing things out on here. It's confusing.

So to clarify: you've tried different CPUs and power supplies, but the opto issues persist. You've also swapped opto boards out with working ones, and the Optos still don't work, correct?

I'd think then that the problem is somewhere in the wiring from the Optos to the backbox. We're you working under the pf on something unrelated, and then this started happening?

Check to make sure all the wires fort the connectors are on the correct pins. Compare them to the manual.

I'm guessing then that there is a wiring issue from opto board to connectors in backbox. Find the wiring and follow it up.

Did you do any shopping of the pin or changing over to LEDS around the time this all happened?

Swap the LEDs near those optos for normal bulbs and see what happens. Maybe LED light is interfering with optos?

This.

This is where I was going PoMC, although I'd think the leds would just make them activate.

Which optos aren't working?

The playfield opto power feeds from J118 on the power driver board (although since J116-J118 are identical someone may have swapped positions in the past during a repair). It's not uncommon to have a 2-pin inline connector routed from the J118 connections that then feeds the playfield opto power; check real carefully near the bottom left corner of the power driver board to see if perhaps you have a connector unplugged.

Have you traced the wiring from J118 to whatever opto board under the playfield? There is probably something loose or not right. This sounds like a break in the wiring somewhere if the boards are good (as tested in other machines), and the opto boards work.

Did you trace the wiring from opto board to J118?

You missed the point of what I said: "It's not uncommon to have a 2-pin inline connector routed from the J118 connection that then feeds the playfield opto power; check real carefully near the bottom left corner of the power driver board to see if perhaps you have a connector unplugged." Follow the wiring (black & gray-yellow) that leads from EACH of the THREE connectors that plug onto J116-J118 to be sure there's no 2-pin inline connector that was disconnected (NOT the 4-pin connector that connects to J116-J118).

Saving