(Topic ID: 259242)

Replace whole flipper set up with newer on a Old Gottlieb?


By weeze

51 days ago



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  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 48 days ago by SteveinTexas
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    #1 51 days ago

    This is a "what if" or just thinking out loud question. Have any of you ever done this? Im talking about the Gottlieb Flipper setup with the big wire, you press flipper button, button moves wire, other end of wire actuates switch. And of course there is all the assorted grounding of oneself, etc that can possibly be involved
    what with the paper insulator ,etc, etc, etc.
    So I was thinking, as long as the existing flipper buttons have a spring under them or the switch itself cause some resistance, couldn't a later Gott, Williams, nof Bally flipper system be used? keeping the 2 inch flippers of course.
    Thanks and a Happy Belated New Years to all!

    #2 51 days ago

    The flipper switch is just a high current switch so any other normally open high current switch with appropriate shielding could be used. The trick however is that if the flipper switches are mounted to the underside of the playfield (and activated by the stiff wire from the flipper button) you'd have to rewire the switches to be mounted to the side of the cabinet behind the flipper buttons. That means running new wire the length of the cabinet, through the playfield jones plug (or a new one) to get to the flipper circuit. Electrically there'd be no difference but the new wiring would take some thought.

    /Mark

    #3 50 days ago

    Um, lets see here. Im looking at the underside of a FLIPPER POOL here. so lets say I try to just eliminate the long "z" shaped wire, Gets pushed on so it closes a switch over on the underside of the playfield.
    Now if we install your good old good , decent flipper button switchs. we run the wires to the existing switchs that is under the playfield and then just eliminate that switch completely right? So wires now go straight from flipper button to coils.
    Except for the inconvience of the wire that is attached on one end to the inside of the cabinet ala flipper button to the coils, this should work .yes?
    What do YOU think MARKG?

    #4 50 days ago

    You can either relocate the existing switches to the cabinet inside walls, or wire new switches in parallel with the existing switches. Either should work. The flipper coil won't care where the switch is if it's wired correctly.

    Sounds like a lot of trouble though. Especially if you ever need to remove the playfield. Are the flipper buttons not working well as they are?

    #5 50 days ago

    I'm sure you could do this but I don't know why you would want to. I've had several games with those type of flippers and they work just as well as the newer style.

    #6 50 days ago
    Quoted from edednedy:

    I'm sure you could do this but I don't know why you would want to. I've had several games with those type of flippers and they work just as well as the newer style.</blockquote

    edednedy makes a valid point. I had a 1965 Dodge City with those flipper mechanisms and I thought it added a certain and unique dimension to playing the pin. There was a feel to the action as if you were moving the flippers purely mechanically. I loved that -- it fit with the age and play experience of the model. It gave you a more tactile machine connection. IMO I think a hack to remove that aspect would detract from it's value and appeal.

    #7 50 days ago

    (repost)
    edednedy makes a valid point. I had a 1965 Dodge City with those flipper mechanisms and I thought it added a certain and unique dimension to playing the pin. There was a feel to the action as if you were moving the flippers purely mechanically. I loved that -- it fit with the age and play experience of the model. It gave you a more tactile machine connection. IMO I think a hack to remove that aspect would detract from it's value and appeal.

    #8 50 days ago

    1965 Dodge City left flipper shaft mounted inside cabinet.

    DSC06873 (resized).JPG
    #9 50 days ago

    I would leave as natured intended. If everything is set up correctly, I cant see the need to alter anything, plus of course should you want to pull the playfield out, then what?

    #10 50 days ago
    Quoted from Classicpinballs:

    I would leave as natured intended. If everything is set up correctly, I cant see the need to alter anything, plus of course should you want to pull the playfield out, then what?

    Lubricate the button shafts and the wireform pivot points and spring with just a touch of teflon lube. Replace the flipper switches with new ones from PBR, and if you feel they need it, replace the buttons as well. Adjust the position of the switches (you have a little wiggle room with the screw holes), and if necessary, reform the wireforms slightly so that the flippers are adequately responsive to normal finger pressure on the buttons. If you're concerned with the potential shock hazard, put a small piece of shrink tubing on the vertical part of the wireform (the part which contacts the playfield switches).
    Doing all this will make the flippers work just as well as the modification you're contemplating, without changing the basic design. This type of thing is a major turn-off with me when I look to buy a machine, so it's something to consider if you're ever thinking about reselling the game.

    #11 50 days ago

    I thought about it on my Gtb. Poker Face (only game I really remember owning with this old setup) but I like to keep things as original as possible. It's just as prone to shocking somebody as a game with button switches that also has metal flipper buttons. But I am no big fan of that wire-activated system to be sure. Too many moving parts and pivots, not as tight a 'feel' as games with button switches. If you wanted to do it, might be easier to wire the flipper button wires and the new flipper switches to quick pull connectors that you reconnect (thru the coin door opening) once you drop the playfield instead of running flipper button wire all thru the cabinet.

    #12 50 days ago

    Thanks for the input. I have several games with these flippers, as I restored or redid or whatever you call it I did lubricate and usually any part that acted strangely or whatever I replace. Its not that I want to do this, I just wanted to hear if anyone had and if they thought the job was worth it.
    If I had a complaint its the same complaint we all have, every once in a while I need to remember to wear shoes and/or don't lean on another Gott while playing a Gott.
    Thanks all, appreciate it!
    OH and just in case anyone reading this doesn't know this, NEVER touch the inside door of a old Gottlieb unless you wish to have your sinuses and ears totally cleaned out. Game on or off, makes no difference!

    #13 50 days ago
    Quoted from weeze:

    OH and just in case anyone reading this doesn't know this, NEVER touch the inside door of a old Gottlieb unless you wish to have your sinuses and ears totally cleaned out. Game on or off, makes no difference!

    It all depends on what your other hand is resting on, and if you're wearing shoes or not. I routinely turn off games by flipping the weighted switch inside the coin door. I just make sure I'm not touching anything with my other hand. Not that I recommend that... just sayin'. It'll do more than clean out your ears and sinuses if you ground yourself while doing it.

    #14 48 days ago

    All my machines, particularly Gtbs, are fitted with an earth/ground wire, including the metal front door ( I use a strip of plastic instead of the factory fish paper too) lock-down bar housing and I also like to slide heat-shrink sleeves over the metal rods that operate the flippers. All mine are run on 240volts too, so a truly hair raising experience were something to go wrong.

    #15 48 days ago

    Any one know a supplier of the spring on these early 60’s flipper metal rod assemblies?

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