I have been asked several times regarding this cap and have not had luck finding them.

I have seen lots of posts regarding the back to back caps and there is a lot that can happen if you don't do this right (yes, there is a lot of room for human error in this one especially in the future when somebody else looks at this solution and "simplifies" it). I have decided not to suggest that one. But it does seem that as long as you go much higher in voltage with the replacements (as barakandI said) then this seems to work ok. It is somewhat space limited which makes it difficult to fit in even more caps.

I am working on a large capacitor order right now. I'll see if they still make axial non-polarized caps (not many companies make any axials anylonger). If they are available, will probably add in some 100uF, 160V caps. I do know they make these in radial style so we may need to go there.

Can you take a quick measurement of lead spacing for the C1/C2 caps so I can determine the max length? And measure C3/C4 if you can.

Ed

But that is just the strobe assembly -- not the driving board.

SPICE for simulator? Looks like a much different version than what I last used.
I saw the negative on C2 originally but never even considered putting a shunting diode across him to take care of the negative voltage. Excellent post, Would be nice to somehow work this into pinwiki.

To simplify what he said:
For both C1, C2 caps -- use 100uF, 200V axial electroltyic caps. Could also use 100uF, 160V caps but that is cutting it close.
In order to use these more common caps - you need to protect capacitor C2. Install a protection diode directly across C2. Anode of diode to negative lead of C2, Cathode (banded end) of diode to positive lead of C2. SB140 is a good choice.