Regarding the old idea about replacing the glitchy BK drop switches with microswitches.... anybody ever try replacing with modern rollover microswitches with the built-in plastic bracket? Used on Stern, JJP etc. but I don't have any real recent games so didn't even know these existed. I'm guessing the mounting holes for the bracket are the standard switch stack spacing and would fit the existing holes in the target unit but I don't know for sure. But I'd bet a nickel they are. If not you could route 'em out a little I guess. Thinking these could work if you straightened out the wireform as required and maybe even had the end of the wire bend down over the edge so there is more travel on the switch from the drop target if it was needed. That's assuming the actuator pressure is low enough, but the actuator will have some leverage to it plus it's a rollover switch which should be pretty low-sprung, and the the drops are spring loaded too. Was thinking of getting one and see if it would work, only 4 bucks. Unless somebody already knows this won't work for some reason.

18-3004-01 JJP Rollover_300x300 (1) (resized).jpgdownload (34) (resized).jpg

I ordered a couple, will report results after I get them and try them.

It will work with these rollover switches, they are very light sprung so that is not an issue but they have a lot of 'throw'. The arm moves so far up at rest I had to tweak the position of the end so the reset bar can't hit it on its way up or down. I think I need to experiment with some other newer switches with less throw but still light enough for the targets. And maybe with flat actuators instead of the wire one although the latter does let you tweak the actuator positioning on the target left or right if you need to. Also matters where the existing switch was mounted as to whether you need to use a L or R oriented switch base since some spots one will fit and the other won't.

151275357_431941307922225_798378017386594656_n (resized).jpg

Orrr maybe something like this on the next test target - have the arm simply go past the target edge, then no more worry about the reset bar interference or the particular positioning of the end of the actuator at the base of the target. Plenty of actuator length to work with. What the hell I'll see how/if it works.

Also on the first version maybe I'll try getting the actuator to one side or the other of the reset bar instead of riding over it to better insure there's no interference.

4a70e05bd99bbc44e85d042711aa82cde4eb422b (resized).jpg

4e1ae1bf6f6446856b3bfc18897a7d5e62e0c15d (resized).jpg