(Topic ID: 240227)

Repairing my first machine, 6803 truck stop Solenoid issue

By EdHess

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by frunch
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

Testing my 6803 mpu board to find why upper right slingshot solenoid is always on.

Power off to machine.
Fluke 115 meter set to diode mode.

Visually I can see transistor q17 and 4 others do not look the same as all other transistors in the top edge row. (The board is mounted with the top edge to the left side of the back box as this is a truck stop machine.) The 5 different looking transistors have what appears to be a 1/2 inch heat sink metal tab extending out vertically inline with the 3 pins to help you visualize this were as the others look like what you see in photos of this OEM board

So a comparison of all these

Q17 transistor probing top most pin to center base pin .0009 volts
Q17 transistor probing bottom most pin .264 volts

Other 4 non OEM transistors
Top most pin .364 volts
Bottom mostly pin .264 volts

So the question here is does this sound like I confirmed the problem correctly?

This is my first foray into owning and repairing a pinball machine.
I suspected this may be the problem prior to testing after searching and reading other 3806 topics and threads on this forum, as well as the pinrepair.com writeups and pin wiki.

My only electronics experience is from installing remote starters in autos for 30 years as well as wiring in relays for various functions in my past owned racecar.

Since buying truck stop a few months ago I have repaired the following.
1 Replace lower cabinet graphics.
2 Replaced upper flipper bushings that were both cracked
3 Sourced and replaced one plastic (found it in Germany) that I had to modify to fit as their template to manufacture has incorrect hole mounts and red lense diameter
4 Replaced Power supply board with swemmer electronics unit

To be done:

1 Waiting for delivery of out hole switch that has intermittent failure and appears to not be correct oem unit

2 waiting for delivery of 2 pinscore displays that took out the fuses on the oem power supply board (figured i would upgrade that board to just make the improvement and forget about it.

3 I found Fred Swemmers email address on his YOU Tube video so I sent him an email requesting how to buy his replacement 3806 MPU board since no one had one in stock. He responded and is making me one as I type this.

So I think i Might be off to a good start in learning how to make improvements and repair my first pinball machine. Your thoughts?

#2 2 years ago

I seem to have an intermittent failure to launch that I thought the out hole switch replacement would fix.
It did not. However if manually triggering that switch after a failure, even though the solenoid kicks the ball into the trough, then the trough kicks out the ball as it should.

I am thinking loose solder joint on either the optical sending or receiving boards in the ball trough that reconnects from the solenoid vibration on the second manual kick?

#4 2 years ago

The first two I already found. The first of those got me up to speed real quick.
But that 3rd link... Going to take a Loooong time to get through all of that!

Thank You!
Ed Hess

#5 2 years ago

I'd definitely pull out that opto board and re-flow the solder for the header pins. It's in a pretty active area, so it's very possible the connectors need it anyway. You can also clean the opto's gently with Windex and a q-tip. Hopefully that will get you back in business. Good luck, let us know what you find!

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

I'd definitely pull out that opto board and re-flow the solder for the header pins. It's in a pretty active area, so it's very possible the connectors need it anyway. You can also clean the opto's gently with Windex and a q-tip. Hopefully that will get you back in business. Good luck, let us know what you find!

Clean the optos and and re-flowed all the solder joints on both boards. So far so good.
Also checked all resistor values.

Thanks

#7 2 years ago

Just changed all 90 bulbs with led's. Really made the game POP!

Had to use a 90 degree pick to lift staples from various ground strap locations to lower the light sockets on many. Not sure how to replace the staples since there is next to no clearance for a staple gun on most of them. Thoughts on using a glue gun to secure the cable?

Since buying it one of the slingshot solenoids was constantly powered on in the retracted position.
Probably what made the transistor on this circuit not be up to spec. I found that some moron had taken some of the coil windings from the solenoid (not sure how he un-wond them) and connected one side to a light socket next to the assembly. anyway the solenoid now works as it should and somehow the transistor that doesn't measure correctly is getting the job done.

Next two things are to swap out the mylar playfield protector (on order from marco) and wondering if I can upgrade the sound to a pinsound board. Waiting to hear back from pinsound if they have one compatible... This box is starting to look and play like new!

#8 2 years ago

Nice!! Good work!

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