I was wondering if there is a thread or any information on how to repair the bottom/rear of a classic Bally cabinet (panel with the four plastic feet). That panel is made of MDF wood particle. That surface/panel gets damaged by water quite often, when the pinball is stored, erected, on concrete or other flood-able surfaces.
Before attempting a repair on my cabinet, I was wondering if there was some tricks or things to be careful about.
Any information would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Yves
Quoted from Clnilsen:I used Vid's guide for my cabinet rest. Lots of good info there.[quoted image]
Beautiful Playboy machine. Which color did you end up using? I like the pink/fuschia color....very intense.
Yves
Quoted from Arcane:Beautiful Playboy machine. Which color did you end up using? I like the pink/fuschia color....very intense.
Yves
Rustoleum 2x Magenta Satin Spray
Rustoleum 2x Gloss White Spray
Rustoleum 2x Gloss Black Spray
That's for the bottom of the bottom of the cabinet. He is talking about the backside panel that has the 4 small sliders on it. That piece take lots of punishment
Quoted from vdojaq:That's for the bottom of the bottom of the cabinet. He is talking about the backside panel that has the 4 small sliders on it. That piece take lots of punishment
This post does not go into much detail, since the method is discussed earlier in his topic.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide/page/5#post-3731806
I would be interested if someone has a fix for the particle board back panel. If anything, I'll use epoxy to keep the exposed side from continuing to fall apart.
I replaced a back cabinet panel recently for a Capt. Fantastic, I just used a table saw to match the miter and rabbet / rebate. It's super helpful to cut the rabbet then the miter. I also replaced the corner glue blocks with some hard maple. A table saw, glue and some long pipe clamps will get you there.
Let me know if you have any questions I might be able to answer.
Quoted from FatPanda:I would be interested if someone has a fix for the particle board back panel. If anything, I'll use epoxy to keep the exposed side from continuing to fall apart.
I'm guessing that is what vdojaq was asking about, as well as the OP.
Quoted from Jahkub:I replaced a back cabinet panel recently for a Capt. Fantastic, I just used a table saw to match the miter and rabbet / rebate. It's super helpful to cut the rabbet then the miter. I also replaced the corner glue blocks with some hard maple. A table saw, glue and some long pipe clamps will get you there.
Let me know if you have any questions I might be able to answer.
How did you remove the existing panel without damaging the rest of the cabinet?
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I'm guessing that is what vdojaq was asking about, as well as the OP.
Yes, i believe it is. Same with the link that you posted to Vid's guide. I have a Spanish Eyes and this back panel is falling apart at the bottom. I'd like to replace it but not damage the rest of the original cabinet. my wood working skills are like 1.5/10 lol
Quoted from FatPanda:How did you remove the existing panel without damaging the rest of the cabinet?
It was REALLY swollen and rotten, I seem to remember a couple nails that if needed, could be pushed through the side with a punch and then you'd only be dealing with old glue.
Quoted from Jahkub:It was REALLY swollen and rotten, I seem to remember a couple nails that if needed, could be pushed through the side with a punch and then you'd only be dealing with old glue.
ok. Mine is literally flaking apart at the bottom. I haven't done much with it. Just wondering if I needed to attack it with a stiff flat blade or something like that.
Quoted from FatPanda:ok. Mine is literally flaking apart at the bottom. I haven't done much with it. Just wondering if I needed to attack it with a stiff flat blade or something like that.
Prying would be tough if the glue is still holding, I'd check all the sides for any give and see if you can work it apart without too much force. I'm not sure if the nails I encountered are factory but I assume so. If you can find them and drive them through the cabinet it should make things easier.
Quoted from Jahkub:I replaced a back cabinet panel recently for a Capt. Fantastic, I just used a table saw to match the miter and rabbet / rebate. It's super helpful to cut the rabbet then the miter. I also replaced the corner glue blocks with some hard maple. A table saw, glue and some long pipe clamps will get you there.
Let me know if you have any questions I might be able to answer.
Wasn't there a proper router bit to make that joint?
Quoted from vdojaq:Wasn't there a proper router bit to make that joint?
Something like this one?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide/page/7#post-4007015
Quoted from vdojaq:Wasn't there a proper router bit to make that joint?
I'm sure there is but I do have a nice big table saw. It only required changing the blade settings a couple times so it seemed better than spending the time looking for and buying the proper bit.
Quoted from Jahkub:I'm sure there is but I do have a nice big table saw. It only required changing the blade settings a couple times so it seemed better than spending the time looking for and buying the proper bit.
I swear the proper bit for the Bally cabinets had been posted at one time?
Quoted from vdojaq:Wrong cabinet, that's for modern Bally/Williams. We are talking classic Bally
Likely in that topic however.
I finally fixed the rear panel of my Classic Bally Cabinet. It was actually quite simple and did not require any special bits.
It may look like an heresy to the purist, but compared to the MDF crappy board that Bally provided, it will be a lot better and sturdier.
The most difficult is to actually remove the old soaked panel: I used a rubber mallet and broke it out, so to speak. The board was so bad, it only took a blow to break it:
DSC04643 (resized).JPG
This is what you get after sanding and priming. The corners holding the legs, will be removed and glued back in place for stronger bonds.
DSC04640 (resized).JPG
Basically, you are left with a square opening of 1/2 inch thick and a 45 degrees angled opening on both horizontal sides.
DSC04641 (resized).JPG
DSC04642 (resized).JPG
The idea is to glue in place a piece of 1/2 inch plywood squarely cut of about 19 x 22 inches (measure to make sure it matches your cabinet). The piece is glued and clamped for at least 24 hours. I use Titebond 3 as a glue. That piece of plywood has a little gouge of 1/4 inch, to hold in place the bottom of the cabinet:
DSC04644 (resized).JPG
My cut was a little bit too large and I should have done it smaller (in width).
DSC04645 (resized).JPG
Test fit the board and then glue in place using a few wide clamps.
DSC04646 (resized).JPG
Once the glue is dry, flip the cabinet over and re-install the corners, while adding some more glue for good measure.
DSC04653 (resized).JPG
The, re-create the hols for the leg bolt. I used a round file to finish smoothly the openings, and verified with a bolt that it slides easily:
DSC04655 (resized).JPG
Them a piece of 1/4 inch plywood (approximately 19 x 22) is carefully cut with its two horizontal sides cut at 45 degrees. Make sure that the board fits perfectly:
DSC04658 (resized).JPG
After gluing overnight, the board is ready for sanding, priming and painting.
DSC04659 (resized).JPG
DSC04661 (resized).JPG
It may not be perfect for some of you, but when I compare with the original condition, I like my simple and easy modification a lot:
Figure-1 (resized).JPG
Picture-2 (resized).JPG
Picture-3 (resized).JPG
Once painted, I will add four large gliders (not the stupid and useless tiny Bally gliders) that will hopefully protect the bottom of the cabinet from water damage and humidity, when stored erected.
Yves
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Raleigh, NC