(Topic ID: 67992)

Beacon Motor Repair Tutorial (for HS2 and possibly others)


By steve1515

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by 0geist0
  • Topic is favorited by 29 Pinsiders

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13
#1 5 years ago

When my Getaway beacon motor stopped working correctly, I search all over to see if someone had posted a tutorial on how to repair a beacon motor for HS2. I couldn't find anything, so I figured I'd document my attempt at it so that it might help others in the future. Below I'll explain what I did to get my motor working again. This is for HS2, but I believe that it will be very similar for other games that use these types of motors, such as F14.

The problem with the motor was that it didn't always turn. Sometimes it did, sometimes it didn't. You can see my other thread about it here: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-hs2-beacon-motor

I did end up buying a new motor, but it turns out that I really didn't need to as you'll see below.

This is where the motor/gearbox combo should look like (this is the new motor, because mine was missing the motor cap):
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To open it up, you'll have to pull off the cap on the motor. You will then have this:
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You can now pull the motor off of the gear box. It might be tight. Just make sure you pull it straight out, and don't pull on the wires.
Here's the motor separated from the gearbox:
NOTE: Ignore the paper clip on the motor shaft. That should NOT be there. It was my previous attempt at fixing this before I knew how the motor went together.
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To open the gearbox you'll need to bend the metal tabs holding the cover back a little. I did this with a large set of needle nose pliers:
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Here are some pictures with the cover off:
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Here are some pictures with all of the parts separated and cleaned. You can clean the old grease off with brake parts cleaner (do this outside on a non-windy day).
NOTE: Those pins that hold the gears in the gearbox come out, so don't lose them.
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Here's the grease that I used (Super Lube):
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Here is a close up of the motor coil and its housing before greasing. You'll want to put some grease on all the moving parts that make contact (shaft and under shaft). To get grease under the shaft in the housing, I used a bent paper clip.
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Next, put the motor coil back in its housing and push it into the gearbox case. You'll hear it click into place if you did it correctly.
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When putting the gears back into the gearbox, note the orientation of this middle dual gear. It has to go in with that long bar against the side like that. This allows that little bar to hit the gear and prevent the motor from going in the reverse direction. See the correct orientation here:
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Next, grease up all the gears. You'll want grease on the pins holding the gears and the gear surfaces that touch other parts. Turn the motor to get the grease to go into all of the teeth. See the greased up gearbox here:
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Finally, snap the cover back on. Mine held in the way it was, but you might want to try to bend the metal tabs back a little. Either way, once it's screwed into your pinball machine, the cover will be held into place. Here's what my final product looked like. If yours had a motor cap, snap that back on as well.
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I've tested this with 12VAC on the bench and it works very smoothly. It starts spinning every time, and is very quiet. I'm keeping this as my spare.
NOTE: I've seen things posted about these motors saying they are 24VAC and also 48VAC. This information is incorrect. They are in fact 12VAC motors.

I hope you guys enjoy this tutorial. Please let me know if you see any errors.

#2 5 years ago

EXCELLENT!!! Very helpful, thank you very much.

- Ingo

#3 5 years ago

Nice job.

I was missing the entire assembly in my F-14, only had the domes. Used beacons from autozone and it worked out well. Had to do some minor voltage changing and rewiring but it looks good and has worked well for a few years.

#4 5 years ago

Great write-up! My motor's working but I'm tearing down my machine to clean the playfield, might as well clean and re-grease the motor now, too.

Thanks!

#5 5 years ago

I bet these instructions are similar or identical for the Cyclone Ferris wheel motor. It's made by the same manufacturer and looks the same externally; it just has different specs. That motor is also used in Black Knight 2000.

So was the issue just that the old grease had solidified?

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

My motor's working but I'm tearing down my machine to clean the playfield, might as well clean and re-grease the motor now, too.

Since your motor is still working, and since the gearbox probably wasn't intended to be serviced, I'd probably wait till you need to open it before opening it. If you do decide to go ahead with it though, please let me know if my instructions worked out for you.

Quoted from kyle5574:

So was the issue just that the old grease had solidified?

The old grease wasn't solid, but I think it was sticking and causing the motor to not turn at times. It seems to turn a lot freer now.

2 months later
#7 5 years ago

Hi, just came across this thread after doing the motor in my F14-Tomcat.

Mine worked once in a while and it turned out the 2 arms that prevent the motor from turning back were worn to the point that they were causing interference with the gears. I broke/cut them off and the motor works fine and if it happens to turn the wrong way, it probably would not bother me (so far has yet to).

#8 5 years ago

Another common failure is the wires break just as they enter the housing. You need to be careful but you can cut/strip and repair them there and use shrink tube to make it look pretty.

1 month later
#9 5 years ago

Fellow Getawayers - Can you help my son and I? We are in the process of reviving our

getaway that has been sitting idle for 10 years! Aside from faded graphics and the following two issues, the machine plays remarkably well. We were thinking of selling it but it plays so well that we are reconsidering. I think this is one of the more undervalued games in the Pinball world.

OK - so to the issues:

1. I purchased a replacement dome light from Marcos(it is no loner available) and just got around to installing it. Here's the rub (as indicated in test mode): It lights up for a few seconds and the motor hums but does not turn. It seems like insufficient voltage but are not sure what the voltage should be a were to test. we "asked Lloyd" who suggested we reflow the boards - but that did not help.
would anyone be willing to shoot me a picture of where to test the voltage values(s) and what they ought to be? Nay other suggestions would be welcome.

2. The only play field blemish the a scoring line by the left play filed ramp right below the metal plate that is the entry point for the ramp. I notice this on most machines. Has anyone a repair sequence(paint color recommendation) for repairs this blemish?

thanks in advance - HJBondar

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Hjbondar:

Fellow Getawayers - Can you help my son and I? We are in the process of reviving our
getaway that has been sitting idle for 10 years! Aside from faded graphics and the following two issues, the machine plays remarkably well. We were thinking of selling it but it plays so well that we are reconsidering. I think this is one of the more undervalued games in the Pinball world.
OK - so to the issues:
1. I purchased a replacement dome light from Marcos(it is no loner available) and just got around to installing it. Here's the rub (as indicated in test mode): It lights up for a few seconds and the motor hums but does not turn. It seems like insufficient voltage but are not sure what the voltage should be a were to test. we "asked Lloyd" who suggested we reflow the boards - but that did not help.
would anyone be willing to shoot me a picture of where to test the voltage values(s) and what they ought to be? Nay other suggestions would be welcome.

Wow, talk about timing. I was just having this discussion in the HS2 club thread. I started having problem # 1 last night. What it is, is you probably have stripped gears. I will attach this photo of mine that I found last night. On the very bottom gear (the largest) you will see that the right side has teeth but the left side does not. That explains why it starts moving then gets stuck but still able to hear the motor. That is exactly what happens to mine. Open your gearbox and yours will probably look similar.

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#11 5 years ago

Thanks for the quick response but I have an after-market dome light that looks nothing like this. For that reason I am looking for the voltage outputs so that I can see if my boards are faulty or there is a problem with my dome light. HJBondar

#12 5 years ago

On mine, it was a 12VAC motor.

2 years later
#13 2 years ago

I was just following the instructions in this thread but can't figure out how to separate the motor from the gearbox. Attached is a picture, which shows a gear that seams to be holding the motor on. Any suggestions?

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#14 2 years ago

I believe that it just pulls out. I think when mine when back in it snapped in. Unfortunately, I don't recall how much force it took though.

#15 2 years ago

Back in the day we got like 7 or 8 new getaways and none of the beacons worked 100% out of the box when they hit the streets.
They lit up alright, but rotation was hit and miss. No big deal, since games with beacons the beacons had to be shut off most of the time, since most locations didn't like flashing red lights through their windows.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Nice job.
I was missing the entire assembly in my F-14, only had the domes. Used beacons from autozone and it worked out well. Had to do some minor voltage changing and rewiring but it looks good and has worked well for a few years.

Did you hook up three beacons together in sequence? Details please.

-1
#17 2 years ago
Quoted from chucktee:

Did you hook up three beacons together in sequence? Details please.

All you need is a bridge rectifier to change the AC current to DC

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