(Topic ID: 180076)

Repair or replace broken switch blade?

By rask4p

7 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by dasvis
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#1 7 years ago

Hi Everyone!

I got my first EM this year and need to do some work on a broken relay. The good news is that I was able to find the problem and don't feel totally useless, but I wanted to check and see if I was going about the repair the best way possible. I've got a 1975 Williams Triple Strike and one of the blades in the 1 to 10 relay has broke, see below! Based on my understanding, I think I need to order a new blade and cut it down to the right size, pop out the relay, unscrew it, replace the blade, put it back together and solder the leads up. Sound about right?

I've got another issue that I'm going to be working on when I find the time, the green star lighting circuit doesn't light, but the scoring seems fine. Based on the schematic, I think I have a problem with the 6V, 'Green Star Lites|Eject Lite circuit that I need to trace out.

One last thing! If I'm going to order some bits, I want to order more than just a single blade. Other than bulbs, what are the essential parts to have laying around?

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#2 7 years ago

If you're ordering from Pinball Resource, you want to crack $100 to get a 10% discount. So get everything you need for a thorough top-to-bottom reconditioning:

1 set rubber rings, including arch rebound, flippers, and a few extra mini-posts and 5/16 if they are numerous on your game. 50 rubber speednuts.

A few boxes of 44 and 47 lamps. 47s behind the glass, 44s everywhere else, IMO. Some folks don't like 44s at all, but 47s artoo dim for me in GI.

Plastic posts if any are damaged. If many are in bad shape and will clash with new, buy at least as many new ones as are visible from a player's vantage point.

Flipper bats if they are discolored or damaged.

Pop bumper caps if they are discolored or scorched. If they are scorched, get wedge-based lamp sockets (and some 555 lamps) that you can lean over in the pop body to get it away from the cap. Might as well go all the way and get pop bumper bodies too. Then you'll need new skirts...will another color skirt look better than what's on it? Try them and see!

You're gonna have at least a handful of bad GI and feature lamp sockets that will be flaky as a biscuit, so get a few of each (they are designated by the measurement of the vertical part between the flange with the screw hole and the spot where the vertical part bends underneath.

Might want to get some large (playfield) and small (relay) leaf blades and contacts.

A couple of good fuse clips

Point files; one coarse, one fine.

Manual/pamphlet/schematics.

Balls.

There's a "starting" point, anyway! Git to it!

#3 7 years ago

I have the same issue on my Fun Fest and am wondering if there is an easy, but permanent repair. Would it be wrong to loosen the switch stack, insert a new wire and then re-tighten it and solder to the broken wire?

I've replaced the whole leaf before, but it was a pain..

#4 7 years ago
Quoted from bonzo71:

wondering if there is an easy, but permanent repair.

Yes. Get a new blade, or at least partial with the lug, and disassemble the switch stack and solder it to the broken blade.

Quoted from bonzo71:

Would it be wrong to loosen the switch stack, insert a new wire and then re-tighten it and solder to the broken wire?

Probably. Best get the wire soldered to the blade, not pressure fit.

LTG : )

#5 7 years ago

Rask, give me a day or two and I'll see if I have replacement blades for you. If I have it, I'll send it n/c. All I ask is that you consider a donation to Pinside.

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from Mikala:

Rask, give me a day or two and I'll see if I have replacement blades for you. If I have it, I'll send it n/c. All I ask is that you consider a donation to Pinside.

I'd definitely donate to pinside, thanks for the consideration!

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

If you're ordering from Pinball Resource, you want to crack $100 to get a 10% discount. So get everything you need for a thorough top-to-bottom reconditioning:
1 set rubber rings, including arch rebound, flippers, and a few extra mini-posts and 5/16 if they are numerous on your game. 50 rubber speednuts.
A few boxes of 44 and 47 lamps. 47s behind the glass, 44s everywhere else, IMO. Some folks don't like 44s at all, but 47s artoo dim for me in GI.
Plastic posts if any are damaged. If many are in bad shape and will clash with new, buy at least as many new ones as are visible from a player's vantage point.
Flipper bats if they are discolored or damaged.
Pop bumper caps if they are discolored or scorched. If they are scorched, get wedge-based lamp sockets (and some 555 lamps) that you can lean over in the pop body to get it away from the cap. Might as well go all the way and get pop bumper bodies too. Then you'll need new skirts...will another color skirt look better than what's on it? Try them and see!
You're gonna have at least a handful of bad GI and feature lamp sockets that will be flaky as a biscuit, so get a few of each (they are designated by the measurement of the vertical part between the flange with the screw hole and the spot where the vertical part bends underneath.
Might want to get some large (playfield) and small (relay) leaf blades and contacts.
A couple of good fuse clips
Point files; one coarse, one fine.
Manual/pamphlet/schematics.
Balls.
There's a "starting" point, anyway! Git to it!

All great info. Plus I would order:

a leaf adjustment tool (although I prefer the one from Marco which has the 45 degree end). I also prefer Marco's bulb remover, but PBR's is good too.

Yes to the contacts - personally i would rebuild that leaf switch with a new contact (you just insert contact into correct hole and hit on the back with a peen end of hammer) but the other methods mentioned above work fine of course

flex stone

assortment of fuses

a large bottle of 91% Alcohol from CVS, and a ton of micro-fiber cloths from Amazon/Costo.

oh, and some Valium...you'll need it at some point with these lovely machines.

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from 4Max:

All great info. Plus I would order:
a leaf adjustment tool (although I prefer the one from Marco which has the 45 degree end). I also prefer Marco's bulb remover, but PBR's is good too.
Yes to the contacts - personally i would rebuild that leaf switch with a new contact (you just insert contact into correct hole and hit on the back with a peen end of hammer) but the other methods mentioned above work fine of course
flex stone
assortment of fuses
a large bottle of 91% Alcohol from CVS, and a ton of micro-fiber cloths from Amazon/Costo.
oh, and some Valium...you'll need it at some point with these lovely machines.

That brings up a good point, this bad boy is dirty! I've been told that if it's not broken, don't touch it because you'll probably break it, but I'd love to clean this thing up inside and get fewer arcs/buzzes. Should I go through this thing and rough up all the contacts and wipe things down?

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from rask4p:

I've been told that if it's not broken, don't touch it

I have to agree, a common mantra on this forum is "the enemy of good is better", so if this relay is the only issue, then I would leave all others well alone.

When I re-read your original post, you really might not need much at this stage, in fact just a leaf blade.

The "big" PBR order could wait until your next EM project. Yes, you will get another...and another...I know.

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from 4Max:

I have to agree, a common mantra on this forum is "the enemy of good is better".

Decided to clean the score reels on a sold game, found/created two broken wires... that will teach me...

#11 7 years ago
Quoted from 4Max:

I have to agree, a common mantra on this forum is "the enemy of good is better", so if this relay is the only issue, then I would leave all others well alone.

I agree too. Fix the relay properly with a new blade and contact. Then PLAY the game. The more you play your EM, the better it will run. The Buzzing and Arcing will get better with play. If you go through the game cleaning contacts because they look dirty, you will more than likely end up introducing more problems. The one caveat would be switch adjustment. If slingshot and other score switches are adjusted too closely, the rubber near them and the sling kickers can make those switches "bounce" causing Arcing and erratic scoring. Adjust those switches to have a good clearance from their rubber and good switch contact separation when sitting still.

Dirty playfield is definitely something you want to clean and wax, but dirty switches are usually OK. However, If there is one switch that is way dirtier than those around it, it should get some attention. It is probably out of adjustment and has been arcing a lot. That switch should be cleaned and adjusted.

#12 7 years ago

I got it for you. PM sent. I measured it up to my Triple Strike, it's the right switch.

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2 weeks later
#13 7 years ago

So attaching contact points to blades is merely done with a ball peen hammer?

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

So attaching contact points to blades is merely done with a ball peen hammer?

I usually solder them on, but yes, they were just peened on at the factory.

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