(Topic ID: 296920)

Repair advice for B/W eddy boards? Specifically TOM.

By harryhoudini

3 years ago


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#1 3 years ago

Seems like these are fairly unobtanium. The part listing at pinball life confuses me (https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html) as the part number specificity doesn't match up with the TOM manual so I'm not sure if that is a replacement part for what is in my game and then it's only for the outlanes. At $38 bucks a pop I thought I'd check into any information on repairing. Seems like the pinbits auto board isn't usually in stock, although I emailed.

The left outlane board on my is flaky and hard to get adjusted and then isn't capable of sensing the ball through the playfield (but will sense it when pulled out of the playfield and held very close).

I found a few threads on repair, specifically on replacing the TDA0161DP chip which I'm capable of but unsure if any of the other components need to be replaced. I'd guess the pot probably needs to be replaced as well. Do I do this on working boards as well (assuming they will eventually need it)?

Any input or advice?

#2 3 years ago

I used the pinball life one for the trunk and it works good. I believe the outline eddys are different from the trunk one.. I believe it's one capacitor and another component that's different between the trunk eddy and outlane eddy boards.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

I used the pinball life one for the trunk and it works good. I believe the outline eddys are different from the trunk one.. I believe it's one capacitor and another component that's different between the trunk eddy and outlane eddy boards.

Replacing the pot and connector are reccomended as well.

#4 3 years ago

Sounds like you are focused on repairing but if you can get the auto-eddy boards they are superior. I had to recalibrate the original eddy boards all the time but the autos have run flawlessly for years now.

Either way good luck with the fix!

#5 3 years ago

Thanks, I'll see if I can source all of those parts somewhere.

I am waiting to hear back from pinbits on the auto-eddy boards. I would definitely rather go that route.

#6 3 years ago

Make sure you have the correct board. The same board (electrically) has different components when used for "area" (trunk) or "focused" (outlane). It is likely that the correct board is in place but it does not hurt to verify.

Repairing your board is going to be cheaper than replacing it. It may require a little bit of leg work to find components, patience waiting for the components and appropriate equipment to perform the repair.

If you are unable to locate an automatically configuring board I have an untested reproduction that I made for a person who has been having trouble with the Star Trek TNG outlane that should work. If anything you could try it if you want.

Point #2 in post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/10#post-6308140 shows the board.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Make sure you have the correct board. The same board (electrically) has different components when used for "area" (trunk) or "focused" (outlane). It is likely that the correct board is in place but it does not hurt to verify.
Repairing your board is going to be cheaper than replacing it. It may require a little bit of leg work to find components, patience waiting for the components and appropriate equipment to perform the repair.
If you are unable to locate an automatically configuring board I have an untested reproduction that I made for a person who has been having trouble with the Star Trek TNG outlane that should work. If anything you could try it if you want.
Point #2 in post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/10#post-6308140 shows the board.

Thanks Victor

I am going to attempt to repair. I'll pull one and grab the chip and pot and reflow the connectors as those sound like the common issues. I'll let you know if I don't get any success there.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I am going to attempt to repair. I'll pull one and grab the chip and pot and reflow the connectors as those sound like the common issues. I'll let you know if I don't get any success there.

Just curios, have you tried swapping the 2 drain sensor boards to see it the problem follows the board?

#9 3 years ago

Oh I found my Eddy sensor parts over the weekend, the potentiometer I use is an exact replacement for the original ... unfortunately these are on back order.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/531-PT10V-10K

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Repairing your board is going to be cheaper than replacing it. It may require a little bit of leg work to find components, patience waiting for the components and appropriate equipment to perform the repair.

With the exception of U1, this should be the full parts list from the last time I ordered eddy board parts: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JldkcrDKpzEhbf9p7weN8CUWl0OMJfuhk6k87WlfqQM/edit?usp=sharing

Quantities and prices listed are current bulk prices, reducing quantities may increase prices or make the part unavailable at lower quantities.

#11 3 years ago

Ah awesome, thanks! I found the chips on ebay (seemed like those were the hardest to come by) so I grabbed a few of those. I did not switch boards, I'll do that to confirm. I hate to rebuild the whole thing if most of the components are ok so I guess I'll start with the chip and go from there. Easy enough to test. Maybe I'll grab some pots (they have some on ebay) too.

1 month later
#12 2 years ago

Replaced the chip, LED still on 100%. Checked all solder points, nothing looks bad. Tested it on the other side of the game, same result. Waiting on the pot to be delivered so I can replace that next. I socketed the chip as well and tested a different one so pretty sure it isn't the chip.

#13 2 years ago

We've had great luck with the boards Victor makes. We've got some of his eddy boards in our Roadshow machine here at Olympia Rare Coins.

#14 2 years ago

Cool, thanks. I'll definitely hit Victor up if it ends up that I replace them.

I have the ones from Tangles in AUS in my cart (auto adjustment ones) as well, but was hoping I might be able to repair this one, even just for the fun of it. Plus I'd order 3 from Tangles if I needed just one so not so cheap and quick. It would have been much more fun but I guess I lost the smaller tip for my Hakko FR301 so it was a lot of desoldering braid to get it clean enough to solder in the socket. I probably pulled out a through hole as well but I don't think it was needed as the traces are single sided and this one was on the bottom, I think. Tip is on order along with some more drill bits as I broke the 1.3mm one, doh.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

We've had great luck with the boards Victor makes. We've got some of his eddy boards in our Roadshow machine here at Olympia Rare Coins.

I need BOTH outlane boards for my TOM. Can you please tell me who Victor is, or where I can order these from. Thank you!

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from DB62:

I need BOTH outlane boards for my TOM. Can you please tell me who Victor is, or where I can order these from. Thank you!

Victor is pinside member "DumbAss":

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repair-advice-for-b-w-eddy-boards-specifically-tom#post-6392004

#18 2 years ago

Well, not the chip and not the pot. Almost seems like at this point I should just replace all the capacitors and diodes. I was going to order 3 of the Tangles boards and call it a day but now they are out of stock.

#19 2 years ago

Board is ready to be sent tomorrow.

generic_proximity_sensor.jpggeneric_proximity_sensor.jpg
#20 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Board is ready to be sent tomorrow.
[quoted image]

Many thanks!! Still going to mess around with this bad one. I'm on a mission!

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