(Topic ID: 160503)

Repainting vs. Touching Up - Repainters vs. Originalists


By ZNET

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 85 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by RyanClaytor
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • 2001 Gottlieb, 1971

Topic poll

“REPAINTER or ORIGINALIST?”

  • I would strip and repaint the cabinet to make it perfect, like it was in 1971, right out of the box. 29 votes
    35%
  • It would be blasphemous to repaint that cabinet. It's only original once so I would touch up that puppy. 23 votes
    27%
  • I would neither repaint it nor touch it up. Life is too short. I would put it in my line-up as is and play it. 32 votes
    38%

(84 votes by 0 Pinsiders)

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There are 85 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago

I think I'd like repaints more if it was harder to tell. I mean if you look at it and wonder if that is a perfect original or a repaint then mission accomplished. A lot of guys get pretty close. The trouble is even a perfect original is likely to have a little patina. When they are a day-glo white with heavy splatter it's a dead giveaway that it's a repaint. Part of me realizes that splatter probably was heavier originally. I'm guessing it gets knocked down and thinned out after 50 years of cleaning but I like the subtlety of the less obvious.

A clean original is my ideal. That's generally optimistic and I can live with some battle scars. There comes a point for some games where they look so ragged a repaint is definitely an improvement and adds value. And I think most would agree. It's in that middle ground where it gets tricky and opinions really vary on the proper treatment.

#52 3 years ago

Just sent boilerman a pm asking for tips on the webbing. I was under the impression you thin out black paint by 50% dip a brush and flick at the cab. I guess there is much more to it. Glad I asked.

#53 3 years ago

Flicking a brush seems a bit random of a method for a commercial operation like Gottlieb - they clearly used a machine of some sort to get consistent results. Surely that method hasn't been lost to time.

#54 3 years ago

I like an original paint job, but will usually accept a decent repaint over one of those shag carpet jobs.

#55 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I like an original paint job, but will usually accept a decent repaint over one of those shag carpet jobs.

Would this be decent enough. This is the reason I dislike repaints.

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#56 3 years ago

I'd shag that one.

#57 3 years ago

Hi
a "real" collector will not pay much for a repainted machine - also not much for a touched-up pin.
Well, maybe he does - because he wants the pin for playing / having memories of "good times long gone" ...
Funny ? WE talk about touch-ups and repaints - guitarists buy Tele's and Strats - new from the factory --- roadworn - beaten-up - heavy signs of wear ...
Greetings Rolf

#58 3 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Flicking a brush seems a bit random of a method for a commercial operation like Gottlieb - they clearly used a machine of some sort to get consistent results. Surely that method hasn't been lost to time.

That is the method Clay came up with if you don't have air. I have air but I haven't tried the method yet. It wasn't how Gottlieb did it. They did it in the painting process with a gun, I'm sure.

But that is the thing about webbing. It's not consistent. Sometimes there's more than other times, sometimes it's thicker than other times. It's like the graphics, it was done by hand by humans so no two are exactly alike. The graphics were sprayed with metal stencils, and they didn't take time to be particular, which is why you had the overspray and the graphics being a bit different at times.

#59 3 years ago

In most cases, I like seeing original cabinets left original. Some touch up is ok if it is reasonably well done. I remember a collector a few years ago who found a sample game "Kings & Queens" with a very nice original cabinet. Being a perfectionist though, he had the cabinet repainted. Although it was done by one of the very best restoration guys on the planet, and it looked great when it was done, to me the game's value was diminished greatly. The same for a mint "Foto Finish" that was shopped by a well-known person in the hobby. For some reason, he replaced many of the original coils. The originals were perfectly good, but they were needlessly replaced with new ones with the plastic bases. To me, that ruined the value of the game. It should have been left all original. That's just me though. Of course repainting a trashed cabinet is preferable to leaving it original. I just don't like seeing a reasonably good cabinet getting a full repaint even if it is done well.

#60 3 years ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

Hi
a "real" collector will not pay much for a repainted machine - also not much for a touched-up pin.
Well, maybe he does - because he wants the pin for playing / having memories of "good times long gone" ...
Funny ? WE talk about touch-ups and repaints - guitarists buy Tele's and Strats - new from the factory --- roadworn - beaten-up - heavy signs of wear ...
Greetings Rolf

I agree. Many collectable items are much more valuable if left original. Any restoration or even cleaning (such as coins)
will greatly reduce the value.
Pins are a little different in that regard because most games aren't truly "collectable".

#61 3 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

In most cases, I like seeing original cabinets left original. Some touch up is ok if it is reasonably well done. I remember a collector a few years ago who found a sample game "Kings & Queens" with a very nice original cabinet. Being a perfectionist though, he had the cabinet repainted. Although it was done by one of the very best restoration guys on the planet, and it looked great when it was done, to me the game's value was diminished greatly. The same for a mint "Foto Finish" that was shopped by a well-known person in the hobby. For some reason, he replaced many of the original coils. The originals were perfectly good, but they were needlessly replaced with new ones with the plastic bases. To me, that ruined the value of the game. It should have been left all original. That's just me though. Of course repainting a trashed cabinet is preferable to leaving it original. I just don't like seeing a reasonably good cabinet getting a full repaint even if it is done well.

At times I have repainted a cabinet because there was no other choice due to the cab condition or a previous respray calamity. But I regard a respray, no matter how professionally done, as essentially one big touch up. There just seems a loss of character to a resprayed 50/60 year old machine-IMO.

#62 3 years ago

Hi pinsiders
"Shangri La" was my first love (end of 1960ies): http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2110 , http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2110&picno=18169

Starting the hobby around 2007 - after years of waiting I could buy one in +/- 2011 - it came repainted - all brown / maroon --- UGLY. A friend of mine LIKES to do repair-jobs (fixing so we can play again) and also from time to time: Doing a repaint. We agreed on "Repaint Yes" but a piece of art on its own.
Another person I know "since about 2014" owns an original Shangri La. I do say: Mine is NOT original - but I prefer the "color green" and "color red" on MY Shangri La. Here two pictures (lousy pictures) taken with an cellular / mobile phone.

If a repaint is necessary -> make a clearly visible repaint (?). Greetings Rolf

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#63 3 years ago

Vintage cars provide a useful template for thinking about this subject:

http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2011/01/Original-vs--Restored/3694861.html

The author describes four categories of originality/restoration:

1) "Survivor", kept as original as possible, no refinishing or touchups allowed. Only minimal functional repairs.
2) Surface updates allowed to make it visually attractive, but no more.
3) "Restomod" - originality is unimportant. Replace or modify anything with anything. Original item was just a starting point.
4) Ground-up restoration: take it all apart, polish everything so it gleams, NOS replacements only. Item in better condition than when new.

I'd love to do #4, but have to mostly settle for #3.

Another article explains how an original car may be worth 35% more than a restoration:

http://mycarquest.com/2014/01/now-that-original-is-more-valuable-than-a-perfect-restoration-there-are-a-few-questions-that-come-to-mind.html

Which interestingly has the author asking this question: "Will there be an increase in fake originality and fake patina on classic cars for sale?"

I welcome any increase in value on my pins, but I don't want to be hemmed in by that consideration alone.

#64 3 years ago

Agree with number 1.

After that it is compromising as sometimes there just isn't anything else available.

Although you just can't beat a lovely original survivor. But very rare to find 99% original. Always prefer original glass but sometimes not possible but luckily the repro glasses are very very good.

#65 3 years ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

Hi pinsiders
"Shangri La" was my first love (end of 1960ies): http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2110 , http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2110&picno=18169
Starting the hobby around 2007 - after years of waiting I could buy one in +/- 2011 - it came repainted - all brown / maroon --- UGLY. A friend of mine LIKES to do repair-jobs (fixing so we can play again) and also from time to time: Doing a repaint. We agreed on "Repaint Yes" but a piece of art on its own.
Another person I know "since about 2014" owns an original Shangri La. I do say: Mine is NOT original - but I prefer the "color green" and "color red" on MY Shangri La. Here two pictures (lousy pictures) taken with an cellular / mobile phone.
If a repaint is necessary -> make a clearly visible repaint (?). Greetings Rolf

It's just me I guess, but somehow repainted Williams games don't bother me as much as repainted Gottliebs!

#66 3 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Sometimes a touchup just isn't in the cards.

The Gottlieb Baseball I'm trying to finish before the SFGE in Atlanta. Total Cabinet Repaint.
Brought to you by Rattle Can Restorations™
Pix et al coming soon.

Try a rag and some xylene. Sometimes rattle can comes off easily and the underneath isn't bad.

#67 3 years ago

You have to be able to get the game really cheap if you're going to do a complete restoration on games that are not keepers, unless you just want to do it because you like doing it and you accept that you might lose money as part of just having a good time and doing what you want to do.

A long time ago I decided that this was a hobby for me. Once I accepted that, I no longer limited myself to having to keep the value of a machine to what the market would return on it. How far I will go depends on how much I like the game. I always get them up and running first and if I like the way it plays I go all out making it nice. If I cannot stand the game play then I will dress it up and move it out.

I prefer to keep the original paint and air brush in touchups. If you spend some time on mixing the paint and air brush it so as to fade into the "mixed" color it can be very difficult to detect. Air brush on some semi gloss Varethane and your good to go.

If the cabinet looks like crap, has a hideous repaint on it, or it needs extensive wood repairs I think the repaint is a better way to go.

I take each game differently. I think it is fun to figure out how to make up the different paint on different machines. For the speckles on "Big Brave" I drilled out the spray hole a bit on a rattle can and the spray came out in droplets rather than atomizing.
For the 1950's turquoise multi color speckle paint I bought a drywall ceiling popcorn sprayer from Harbor Freight . I used the smallest nozzle it came with and loaded it with straight latex wall paint for each of the 3 colors. Came out sweet.

I am always interested in how other people fix up their games . I do not think there is a right or wrong. It is a matter of personal preference.
Cliff

#68 3 years ago

Appearance is important. If it bothers you, then have the cabinet repainted. If it doesn't, leave it alone.

#69 3 years ago

Hi
ZNET shows the Backbox in post-1 and the cabinet in post-34. His last post was post-46.
I would repair the cabinet - paint the repaired places in a "nice, good looking way" - put the pin in between two other pins and play - I would do whatever I want to do - later, maybe - doing it for me. I would not do stuff considering "better price when selling". Greetings Rolf

1 week later
#70 3 years ago

Has anyone used this stuff to repair backglasses?

3 weeks later
#71 3 years ago

This Gottlieb 2001 restoration is about 95% complete. I repaired and touched up the cabinet. It's not on par with a professionally repainted cabinet. But, the patina is consistent with the game's overall restoration. The game looks like a machine from 1971, a nice survivor with a few battle scars.

Whereas I prefer original cabinet paint, I'm less particular about components which are easily reversed. For example, on this game, 4 colored inserts illuminate at the kick-out holes and also above the 4 rollover lanes. These inserts correspond to the 4 banks of colored drop targets. The target banks are red, blue, green and yellow. One would expect red, blue, green and yellow inserts. However, the "blue insert" is actually white both at the kick-out hole and at the rollover lane which feeds the left flipper. Successfully striking the 5 blue drop targets ends up illuminating a white insert at the rollover lane and a white kick-out hole. For the sake of uniformity and logic, that white insert and white kick-out hole ought to be blue. Consequently, I placed blue LEDs under the white insert and under the white kick-out hole (blue #47 bulbs were not strong enough) to turn those areas blue in color when lit.

Second, I replaced the original white posts with red, blue, green and yellow posts to surround each of the corresponding colored drop targets. Third, I replaced the 2 original white posts with purple posts at the top center, below the arch. Last, I swapped the yellow bumper skirts for white ones.

(Note: the yellow kick-out hole light is not yet functioning.) I'm enjoying this game. The ball frequently ricochets off of the metal below the flippers and back into the field of play. Nudging isn't required to achieve this effect. Alertness is a necessity, though, when the ball suddenly returns upward rather than drains. I do not remember this phenomenon from this game, when I played it as a youth. Nor do I remember this occurring when I played this game at the expos (and the Dimension at the Silverball Museum in Asbury Park, NJ). Perhaps others with a 2001 or a Dimension can chime in with their experiences?

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#72 3 years ago

A final modification I made was to change the blue flipper lettering to silver. . .no big deal. Below are some cabinet photos.

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#73 3 years ago

Nice work, ZNET!!!

You mentioned that you...

Quoted from ZNET:

...repaired and touched up the cabinet...

...and pardon me if I missed this, but did you previously show where those repairs and touch-ups were? Would love to see a before and after and read more about your process if you're able.

Also, I really like that you...

Quoted from ZNET:

...replaced the original white posts with red, blue, green and yellow posts to surround each of the corresponding colored drop targets.

That looks really slick and works with the gameplay and layout.

However, I was a little curious about why these couple changes were made:

Quoted from ZNET:

change the blue flipper lettering to silver

Quoted from ZNET:

replaced the 2 original white posts with purple posts at the top center

I guess I didn't really understand the integration of those final couple of changes, but I'm interested to hear your thoughts.

Again, fantastic work!

-Ryan

#74 3 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Nice work, ZNET!!!
You mentioned that you...

...and pardon me if I missed this, but did you previously show where those repairs and touch-ups were? Would love to see a before and after and read more about your process if you're able.
Also, I really like that you...

That looks really slick and works with the gameplay and layout.
However, I was a little curious about why these couple changes were made:

I guess I didn't really understand the integration of those final couple of changes, but I'm interested to hear your thoughts.
Again, fantastic work!
-Ryan

Thanks, Ryan. The flipper lettering color change to silver and the purple post swap (and the white bumper skirts) were merely aesthetic preferences, not directly derivative of a companion component's color. As you likely know, Gottlieb's Count Down has an array of target banks, similar to 2001. Years ago, when I had a Count Down, I matched the lighting to each corresponding colored drop target bank. I'm sure that others have done the same on these games.

On 2001, those two white inserts (left flipper feed and 2nd kick-out hole from the left) really ought to be blue, in my opinion, so I added the blue LEDs to those inserts.

Post #29 and #34 earlier in this thread depict several "before & after" cabinet photos. Here's two of them. As you can see, a section of wood was sheared off of the cabinet's lower left side. The right side had a much lesser degree of shearing damage at the bottom. Because the graphics were intact, I opted to retain the game's originality by touching up, rather than repainting it.

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#75 3 years ago
Quoted from ZNET:

Thanks, Ryan. The flipper lettering color change to silver and the purple post swap (and the white bumper skirts) were merely aesthetic preferences, not directly derivative of a companion component's color. As you likely know, Gottlieb's Count Down has an array of target banks, similar to 2001. Years ago, when I had a Count Down, I matched the lighting to each corresponding colored drop target bank. I'm sure that others have done the same on these games.

On 2001, those two white inserts (left flipper feed and 2nd kick-out hole from the left) really ought to be blue, in my opinion, so I added the blue LEDs to those inserts.

Post #29 and #34 earlier in this thread depict several "before & after" cabinet photos. Here's two of them. As you can see, a section of wood was sheared off of the cabinet's lower left side. The right side had a much lesser degree of shearing damage at the bottom. Because the graphics were intact, I opted to retain the game's originality by touching up, rather than repainting it.

Here's a photo of a Count Down playfield (not mine). Matching lights to highlight each drop target bank makes sense to me on this game.

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#76 3 years ago

Nice job, ZNET!

I always enjoy viewing the creativity with regards to improving appearance! You should check out a post titled, "Personal Touch to Your EM's" in this forum. That thread is probably 150 entries long, with many appearance enhancing additions mentioned there.

I added color-coordinated posts as you have with some of my keepers as well, (though I have no pics). Having all white posts to me, seems to take away from the game's appearance somewhat.

On my Dimension, I added colored bulb sleeves to the top kick-outs, but left the hole inserts all white, (which probably helped with their glow). I was originally unhappy with the upper playfield darkness, so I added to the general illumination lighting by adding a 63 bulb to the upper portion of the mid-playfield center kicker plastic, (socket secured under a playfield post, wiring up through existing leaf switch holes). The 63 bulb was horizontal and positioned towards the center, it lit up beautifully. You may not need extra lighting on 2001, as the center plastic is different and looks like it will illuminate better. Funny how the plastic sets on this and Dimension were altogether different.

I also threw in red, blue, green, yellow plastic bulb sleeves, (like the ones above the top arch), on each of the existing bulbs under the center plastic, just to add color. I adjusted the pop bumpers to be lit at all times and used blue "Ink Spot" caps for them. I know they change scoring value when all 10 drops on each side are completed, but they light with the Wow's, and with Wow's lit, who's shooting for them?

Try adding 47's under the plastics behind the drop targets and slings. IMO, They have a fuller, more consistent effect. Those look like LED's in your pics with that directional, "Blotchy" appearance.

#77 3 years ago
Quoted from Boatcat:

Nice job, ZNET!
I always enjoy viewing the creativity with regards to improving appearance! You should check out a post titled, "Personal Touch to Your EM's" in this forum. That thread is probably 150 entries long, with many appearance enhancing additions mentioned there.
I added color-coordinated posts as you have with some of my keepers as well, (though I have no pics). Having all white posts to me, seems to take away from the game's appearance somewhat.
On my Dimension, I added colored bulb sleeves to the top kick-outs, but left the hole inserts all white, (which probably helped with their glow). I was originally unhappy with the upper playfield darkness, so I added to the general illumination lighting by adding a 63 bulb to the upper portion of the mid-playfield center kicker plastic, (socket secured under a playfield post, wiring up through existing leaf switch holes). The 63 bulb was horizontal and positioned towards the center, it lit up beautifully. You may not need extra lighting on 2001, as the center plastic is different and looks like it will illuminate better. Funny how the plastic sets on this and Dimension were altogether different.
I also threw in red, blue, green, yellow plastic bulb sleeves, (like the ones above the top arch), on each of the existing bulbs under the center plastic, just to add color. I adjusted the pop bumpers to be lit at all times and used blue "Ink Spot" caps for them. I know they change scoring value when all 10 drops on each side are completed, but they light with the Wow's, and with Wow's lit, who's shooting for them?
Try adding 47's under the plastics behind the drop targets and slings. IMO, They have a fuller, more consistent effect. Those look like LED's in your pics with that directional, "Blotchy" appearance.

Thanks for the advice. I did not know that Dimension differed from 2001 in so many ways.

The lighting in the playfield photos above is somewhat misleading, distorting the image. The bulbs behind the drop targets are #47 bulbs (although the red drop target bank seems to have lost its illumination by virtue of a loose bulb). The only LEDs in the playfield are the 2 blue ones identified in my post above, for the 2nd from the left kick-out hole and the 2nd rollover lane (from the left). I tend to be judicious with LEDs in EMs, typically utilizing warm versus cool ones, and employing them to "correct" more than to enhance, as with the blue-correction insert issue in this game.

Nevertheless, I have begun to experiment with LEDs in the backglass, now that the game is up and running. Completing each target bank illuminates its corresponding "star clad rectangle" in the backglass (as shown in the 2nd and 3rd photos below). The 1st photo below shows the match numeral and the "2001" title lit, as appears at the game's conclusion. I've seen flashers under the 2001 logo in some games, which looks good. I have a few LEDs installed. There's an ultra-powerful red one installed, that is too strong at the spaceglider's right knee, in the foreground lower right. It's casting an odd shadow on his floating triangle.

I don't remember traveling on triangles 15 years ago? Then again, I live in Jersey. . .(and I know that you can relate, Boatcat).

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#78 3 years ago
Quoted from ZNET:

Thanks, Ryan. The flipper lettering color change to silver and the purple post swap (and the white bumper skirts) were merely aesthetic preferences, not directly derivative of a companion component's color. As you likely know, Gottlieb's Count Down has an array of target banks, similar to 2001. Years ago, when I had a Count Down, I matched the lighting to each corresponding colored drop target bank. I'm sure that others have done the same on these games.
On 2001, those two white inserts (left flipper feed and 2nd kick-out hole from the left) really ought to be blue, in my opinion, so I added the blue LEDs to those inserts.
Post #29 and #34 earlier in this thread depict several "before & after" cabinet photos. Here's two of them. As you can see, a section of wood was sheared off of the cabinet's lower right side. The left side had a much lesser degree of shearing damage at the bottom. Because the graphics were intact, I opted to retain the game's originality by touching up, rather than repainting it.

Nice touch-up and cosmetic surgery on the 2001 cabinet, ZNET. Game looks absolutely beautiful.

Looks like you and I feel about the same regarding this aspect of the hobby. I prefer to keep these games as original as I can but am not adverse to some high quality touch-ups on cabinets and playfields. Some of my games have had this done here and there as I felt was needed. I don't do this work myself, as I just don't have the talent. I have a guy that does the touch-ups on my games and his work is amazing. I don't mind touch-ups but just don't want it to 'look' like touch-ups. If you've ever seen poorly done work, I'm sure you know what I mean. I would rather have no touch-ups at all... than poorly done touch-up.

Now, for the guys out there who think that ANY touch-ups, are "molesting" an original, this is not lost to me. I would put you in a class above me and you probably have the right idea. My problem is, I'm a perfectionist (or at least a recovering perfectionist) and 'any' wear, is too much wear for me. Mr. Picky... but that's okay, my games are like Ivory soap: 99 and 44/100% pure. And in most cases, absolutely 100% pure, as can reasonably be done.

#79 3 years ago

Nice EM Joker Poker

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#80 3 years ago

I really like this machine ZNet and what you have done with it. I like LED because it is cooler temp-wise even when it doesn't look like it did back in the day.On a Space-Themed machine it really fits.I do like coin-door lights/decals,the front of yours is dark.The more lights,the better.
The touch-ups are excellent,I am not sure I could match the quality of your work.Keep it up,and thanks...

#81 3 years ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

I really like this machine ZNet and what you have done with it. I like LED because it is cooler temp-wise even when it doesn't look like it did back in the day.On a Space-Themed machine it really fits.I do like coin-door lights/decals,the front of yours is dark.The more lights,the better.
The touch-ups are excellent,I am not sure I could match the quality of your work.Keep it up,and thanks...

Agreed that coin slot lights are needed. I'm going to experiment with a few cooler LEDs on the playfield, based upon your suggestion regarding the outer-space theme.

Attention all 2001/Dimension owners: please post photos of your games, particularly if your game's lighting is extraordinary.

#82 3 years ago
Quoted from Boatcat:

Nice job, ZNET!
I always enjoy viewing the creativity with regards to improving appearance! You should check out a post titled, "Personal Touch to Your EM's" in this forum. That thread is probably 150 entries long, with many appearance enhancing additions mentioned there.
I added color-coordinated posts as you have with some of my keepers as well, (though I have no pics). Having all white posts to me, seems to take away from the game's appearance somewhat.
On my Dimension, I added colored bulb sleeves to the top kick-outs, but left the hole inserts all white, (which probably helped with their glow). I was originally unhappy with the upper playfield darkness, so I added to the general illumination lighting by adding a 63 bulb to the upper portion of the mid-playfield center kicker plastic, (socket secured under a playfield post, wiring up through existing leaf switch holes). The 63 bulb was horizontal and positioned towards the center, it lit up beautifully. You may not need extra lighting on 2001, as the center plastic is different and looks like it will illuminate better. Funny how the plastic sets on this and Dimension were altogether different.
I also threw in red, blue, green, yellow plastic bulb sleeves, (like the ones above the top arch), on each of the existing bulbs under the center plastic, just to add color. I adjusted the pop bumpers to be lit at all times and used blue "Ink Spot" caps for them. I know they change scoring value when all 10 drops on each side are completed, but they light with the Wow's, and with Wow's lit, who's shooting for them?
Try adding 47's under the plastics behind the drop targets and slings. IMO, They have a fuller, more consistent effect. Those look like LED's in your pics with that directional, "Blotchy" appearance.

I swapped the transparent #47 bulbs for colored #47 bulbs behind the drop targets. The blue one appears green in the photos; however, it is blue in real life. The red one is achieved with a red sleeve.

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#83 3 years ago
Quoted from Boatcat:

You should check out a post titled, "Personal Touch to Your EM's" in this forum. That thread is probably 150 entries long, with many appearance enhancing additions mentioned there.

I searched the site for this thread, but couldn't find it. Any chance of posting a direct link? Thanks for your time, Boatcat.

#85 3 years ago

You rock. Not sure why I couldn't produce that in a search. Thank you, Boatcat!!!

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Lee's Parts
$ 190.00
Tools
PinDoc Restorations
$ 99.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 79.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
$ 2.50
Various Novelties
Pinball Wheezer
$ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
3D MODS
$ 29.25
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
The MOD Couple
$ 19.00
$ 96.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 100.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
$ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Operation Pinball
From: $ 9.99
$ 339.00
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