(Topic ID: 210176)

Removing/lessening Yellowing in the Clear Areas of Plastics?


By BleacherBum

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

I am in the initial stages of evaluating a recent pin I obtained (Bally Space Time). I have begun making part and supplies list to restore. One question I have concerns the plastics. They are all intact but dirty. I cleaned one and the colors still look good, but the clear edges have a yellowest cast to them. Do any of you have a method that removes/lessens the yellowing in the clear areas of plastics.

I found this thread from two years ago. Say Goodby to Old Yellow Plactics https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/say-goodbye-to-old-yellowed-plastics

Just wanted to check if anyone was still using the methods described in the thread or have better methods been develop since then.

Thanks for your input.

Phil

5 months later
#2 1 year ago
Quoted from BleacherBum:

I am in the initial stages of evaluating a recent pin I obtained (Bally Space Time). I have begun making part and supplies list to restore. One question I have concerns the plastics. They are all intact but dirty. I cleaned one and the colors still look good, but the clear edges have a yellowest cast to them. Do any of you have a method that removes/lessens the yellowing in the clear areas of plastics.
I found this thread from two years ago. Say Goodby to Old Yellow Plactics https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/say-goodbye-to-old-yellowed-plastics
Just wanted to check if anyone was still using the methods described in the thread or have better methods been develop since then.
Thanks for your input.
Phil

I've been using 30% peroxide (hot tub sanitizer) with a 1/4 teaspoon of Oxi-Clean, and it works amazing.
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#3 1 year ago

Just soaking, or with sunlight?

#4 1 year ago

How long should stuff be soaked? Looks great!

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from albummydavis:

Just soaking, or with sunlight?

The UV light of sunlight is the catylist that makes the reaction happen.

A 1/4 teaspoon of Oxi-Clean, 30% peroxide, and you are good to go.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from too-many-pins:

How long should stuff be soaked? Looks great!

That was a ~4 hour sunshine bath.

I think I did a thread a few years ago, but I can't find it on my phone.

#7 1 year ago

This stuff is amazing too, pretty much the same treatment using uv light.

http://www.retr0bright.com/

One Osborne 1a done (resized).jpg

#8 1 year ago

That's a pretty amazing transformation for those pop bumper caps and bodies. How does the peroxide/Oxi Clean combo work on clear but yellowed plastics? Does it affect the printing at all? I have a whole machine's worth of Space Invaders plastics awaiting a bath, depending on what the answer is.

2 months later
#9 12 months ago

Will this work on white pf insert plastics? I am guessing it will remove the decals on the inserts.

#10 12 months ago
Quoted from jibmums:

How does the peroxide/Oxi Clean combo work on clear but yellowed plastics?

Pretty good.

It's not 100% clear, but probably an 80% improvement

21995c4a2709c8f0d53c7172a510159a38941dff (resized).jpg
#11 12 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I am guessing it will remove the decals on the inserts.

If you mean decals like waterslide decals or stickers, it depends on what they are made of.

If you mean the silkscreen paint that came from the factory, it's probably OK.

But remember, the peroxide can only "bleach" what it can touch.

So if your inserts have lacquer on them that has turned yellow, it won't work on that, nor will it work on plastic surfaces protected by a lacquer coating.

#12 12 months ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Does it affect the printing at all?

Some playfield plastics seemed to lose a little paint, but it's hard to tell if it was a chemical reaction, or some just flaked off that was already loose.

I guess someone could use some playfield rubbers as gaskets and try screwing it down to keep the backside ink from getting wet.

#13 11 months ago

The insert plastics are our of a project Atari Space Riders. Looks like they are decals and not painted on.

What about the colored PF insert plastics- red, green, etc? They appear to darken over time as well.

#14 11 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

The insert plastics are our of a project Atari Space Riders. Looks like they are decals and not painted on.

Post a FOCUSED, well lit, glass off, set of pictures.

Quoted from StratDoc:

What about the colored PF insert plastics- red, green, etc? They appear to darken over time as well.

Usually they fade from the UV light.

But there can be lots of variation
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#15 11 months ago

Here are example pics of the plastics in question

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#16 11 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Here are example pics of the plastics in question
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those look in nice shape, with nice unworn silkscreen graphics.

I'd put them back in if I were you.

#17 11 months ago

Thanks for the advice. I will do that. Some are a little cupped. I usually use a heat gun to heat and then try to press flat. Is there a better procedure?

#18 11 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Thanks for the advice. I will do that. Some are a little cupped. I usually use a heat gun to heat and then try to press flat. Is there a better procedure?

They just re-cup when you heat gun them.

Do it right, do it once; it's easy:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/17#post-1717646

#19 11 months ago

Thank you for the link, great advice. How do you keep from sanding too much of the PF when sanding the clear on the inserts. The PF on this pin is in great shape but certainly has not coating other than a good wax.

#20 11 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Thank you for the link, great advice. How do you keep from sanding too much of the PF when sanding the clear on the inserts. The PF on this pin is in great shape but certainly has not coating other than a good wax.

Put a piece of blue masking tape on each side of the insert.

Use a singe edge razor blade VERTICALLY with 2 hands and scrape it flush.

When you get down to the masking tape, switch to Scotch Tape (it's thinner) and get them flush.

Buff and you are done.

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