You can get rid of the acorn nuts and use the rubber nuts that don't thread on, they just stay on by friction. They will never bind on like the acorn nuts.

Also, you can get some of the really cheap stamped open ended wrenches. They are thin and easy slip under the playfield plastic so you can engage the nut to keep the screw from turning. They are much smoother and will not easily damage the playfield plastics like a needle nose pliers will.

There's a Gottlieb gadget - basically a flat wrench stamped from sheet metal - available from pin part dealers.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=04100F2809422625D75C8855D70D7D24.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=post+wrench

I took a 1/4" wrench and ground the open end thinner.

IMG_0222.jpg

At left - an open end from Snap-On(about as thin as they come). At right - a wrench from Stanley after a trip to the grinder.

I have had the same issue, a pain for sure. I have removed the screw completely and drilled out the existing hole and glued a wooden dowel in, let dry for 24 hours and drill in the center of the new dowel and reseat the original screw, clean and lube the threaded part and the acorn nut or use the nylon acorn nuts they seem to work better when the screw is set in tight? that's the best result I can offer.

Change the bulb from the bottom.

I use this all the time. Basically, you use this to grip the post to keep it from moving, then use a nut driver or socket wrench on the nut.

The one I have came from PBResource. It's not sheet metal--it doesn't flex at all. I thought it might have been steel, but it's not magnetic. It's 3/32" thick, according to my digital calipers. I haven't had any trouble with it being too thick.

I use the 1/4" and 5/16" open end ignition wrench set from Sears:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-standard-combination-ignition-wrench-set/p-00942319000P

They are smoothed surface so you won't scratch your plastics. Just slide the 1/4" one under the plastic to grab the screw then you use your 5/16" nutdriver to take off the nut.

Of course you could always switch over to using "Post Cap Rubbers" instead of acorn nuts.

Seriously, welcome to pinball. At lerast every individual game has done this at one point or another, and *every* tech has run into this.

Why not grind the Snap-On wrench? They can't cost much more then a Stanley or Pittsburgh. Pittsburgh, China that is

I slowly take all the screws out by giving each a few turns until the plastic with all the screws with the caps attached comes out. Then take some pliers and hold on to the screw while also using a nut driver to remove the nylon cap. Upon re-assembly tighten down all the screws and posts, put the plastic piece on and make sure to not tighten the nylon cap much - barely finger tight works perfect for taking it off again in the future.

they arent really nuts, and dont unscrew. you often have to lift up under the screw with a screw driver as you turn. they suck, but look nice all shined up.

I like those, however I've had cases where they pop off in the middle of gameplay. It seemed isolated to one particular "acorn" so maybe its just a bad one.

I hate those nylon nuts. When I remove them, I replace them with metal ones.

I always just cut stuck nylon or hollow metal nuts off with end nippers.

Pinch into the nut vertically, just a bit from the bottom so you don't scratch the plastics.

You don't have to cut the nut all the way off, as soon as you relieve the pressure, it will turn normally.

Replace with rubber nut.

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Just throw those damn useless things away go with the plastic ones. Damn gottlieb junk!! Lol

There is no substitute for quality!

It's a cost savings move. But how much are they really saving when the look is cheap on a $7,000 piece of equipment.

What is this rubber nut you are referring to? Nylon insert lock nut?

White post cap rubbers:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=51

Black post cap rubbers:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=52

So they just push on and pull off? No tools required?

Correct.

However, some would frown upon using the incorrect post caps for the game.

Yup, easy as pie. Just push on or pull off.

At the large game route operator I worked at for many years, I used to order post cap rubbers by the thousands!