(Topic ID: 247068)

Removing set screws on later style Gottlieb flipper shaft


By Gotemwill

5 days ago



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  • 19 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by MikeO
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    #1 5 days ago

    I am rebuilding the flipper assemblies on a 1976 Gottlieb Buccaneer. I am having a lot of difficulty removing the set screws which hold the flipper shaft in place. Even if I decided to not replace the plunger (which I do want to do) I cannot get to the upper bushing without being able to disconnect the flipper shaft.

    What is the best tool and method to get on these square shaped set screws to loosen them? I tried an ignition combination wrench but can get enough leverage on them.

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    #2 5 days ago
    Quoted from Gotemwill:

    What is the best tool and method to get on these square shaped set screws to loosen them?

    If you don't have a socket that fits that you could use a breaker bar or big ratchet on. I'd clamp a small vice grip on it, and a big vice grip to that, and crank it. And hope you don't break it off.

    LTG : )

    #3 5 days ago

    Those square-head screws are not original.
    I'd let some penetrating oil do it's job for a while before attempting to remove them. I'd say the possibility of breaking one off is high.
    Good Luck!
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #4 5 days ago

    What should be there instead of the square head set screws? This game is not supposed to even have this style of flipper assembly according to PBR’s dating information. It is a Sample game.

    The other side is the same.

    It’ll get the Aero Kroil treatment tonight.
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    #5 5 days ago

    Certainly looks like the right set screws in this exploded view.

    http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/kt-gflip-03amfa.jpg

    #6 5 days ago

    Your "set screws" are square-head. OEM screws were either hex-head or, later, allen key. The hex-head set screws were too easily snapped off which causes a huge problem. It is my theory that Gottlieb transitioned to allen key screws because you can't snap them off.

    I wouldn't be surprised if those screws aren't set screws at all but instead something a prior owner had laying around and came in handy.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #7 5 days ago

    BTW, those flipper mechs are far superior to the mechs that "should" be on the game.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #8 5 days ago
    Quoted from ChrisHibler:

    BTW, those flipper mechs are far superior to the mechs that "should" be on the game.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    Opinions vary on that. Those linear assemblies can lack feel and feel clunky at times. Harder to rebuild than the generation before them too.

    I concur those are not original setscrews. Get rid of them

    #9 4 days ago

    I've never seen square head screws on a Gottlieb flipper assembly. What should have been there is Allen socket head screws. Before the Allen heads were decided on, Gottlieb was using some chintzy hex head screws which they over-tightened at the factory. When you needed to remove them, the heads snapped off!

    #10 4 days ago

    If they snap off, that's when the fun begins. Not too long ago on a EM Bally I had to break out the angle grinder with a cut off wheel and totally cut off both flippers mid shaft destroying the cranks in the process. Shooting a ten foot shower of sparks should never be part of a flipper rebuild!

    #11 4 days ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    If they snap off, that's when the fun begins. Not too long ago on a EM Bally I had to break out the angle grinder with a cut off wheel and totally cut off both flippers mid shaft destroying the cranks in the process. Shooting a ten foot shower of sparks should never be part of a flipper rebuild!

    4th of July!

    #12 4 days ago

    They’re getting the Kroil treatment now in the hopes that they’ll budge. If they do snap off, any suggestions on the plan of attack? There is not much room to do much of anything and as you know, you can’t remove the assembly from the playfield to get more access without having removed the flipper shaft.

    I can’t believe how tight they are.

    #13 4 days ago

    You could try heating it with a heat gun on low power, or a hair dryer. It might have Loctite on the threads that may soften after heating. Be careful not to melt anything in the area.

    #14 4 days ago
    Quoted from Gotemwill:

    They’re getting the Kroil treatment now in the hopes that they’ll budge. If they do snap off, any suggestions on the plan of attack? There is not much room to do much of anything and as you know, you can’t remove the assembly from the playfield to get more access without having removed the flipper shaft.
    I can’t believe how tight they are.

    Look up "8 point socket" for use removing square bolts. Sears even sold them at one time.

    I can confirm they are suppose to be Allen head, just rebuilt flippers on a 1986 Gottlieb last night.

    #15 4 days ago

    As someone said earlier I'd just spray PB Blaster on it and then give it a turn in an hour.

    #16 2 days ago

    Well, I gave the set screws the old Kroil and time treatment and was able to coax them loose with a small ignition wrench. Thanks for all of the help and encouragement. I replaced them with Allen head set screws.

    Everyone has their own go-to for penetrating lubricants, but Aero Kroil truly is amazing stuff.

    http://www.kanolabs.com/

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    #17 2 days ago

    My 76 Volley has the hex head screws as well as a friend's Joker Poker so the use of Allen heads was not the only thing out there.

    #18 1 day ago

    I do have one additional question. After reassembling the flipper assembly with all new bushings, I was surprised to find that the flipper itself is still very close to the playfield. It does not appear to be touching but it’s also not gapped off the playfield like I’m used to seeing on my 2” flipper games. Those are gapped off the playfield by a good 1/8”.

    Should the flipper shaft be set right down onto the top bushing? That’s how it’s shown on this exploded view. There’s also a groove in the shaft where the set screws go which make it appear that there’s about 1/4” of play up and down.

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    #19 10 hours ago
    Quoted from Gotemwill:

    I do have one additional question. After reassembling the flipper assembly with all new bushings, I was surprised to find that the flipper itself is still very close to the playfield. It does not appear to be touching but it’s also not gapped off the playfield like I’m used to seeing on my 2” flipper games. Those are gapped off the playfield by a good 1/8”.
    Should the flipper shaft be set right down onto the top bushing? That’s how it’s shown on this exploded view. There’s also a groove in the shaft where the set screws go which make it appear that there’s about 1/4” of play up and down.[quoted image]

    Your explanation is how I learned to set this style of flipper up. The flange of the flipper shaft sitting on the top bearing/bushing.

    The crank arm is then clamped to the flipper shaft without contacting either the upper or lower bearing/bushing.

    I have found the flipper bat covers close to the playfield also. My solution is to take the bottom edge of the flipper bat cover to a sanding block and remove some of the edges that extend close to the playfield. You can easily take 1/32+ off and make it a comfortable clearance.

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