(Topic ID: 25901)

Removing rails from a restored AFM

By hank35

11 years ago



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#1 11 years ago

With the exception of two small dings from the head coming down on the rails, this machine is close to collector quality. With that said, I would like to remove the rails but fear cabinet or decal damage. Is there a safe way to remove the rails without high risk of damaging the cabinet or artwork?

Thanks in advance.

#3 11 years ago

Excellent thread. Thanks.

#4 11 years ago

I still don't see how that thread "flossing " would work. I wanted to chime in on this thread earlier. But I'm not qualified to answer the question. I would have major concerns about damaging the artwork.

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

I still don't see how that thread "flossing " would work. I wanted to chime in on this thread earlier. But I'm not qualified to answer the question. I would have major concerns about damaging the artwork.

With using dental floss; how so?

The whole theory is to slide the floss under the stainless and slice upward thus slicing the double-sided tape.

Some guy on RGP swears by the method; and apparently, it's an old car-guy trick to successfully remove badges.

My theory is to improve upon the idea: by ripping a bandsaw blade in half (which is thinner than a putty knife) and slicing upwards--thus removing any risk to the original screening, and ripping through the tape in no time.

I'll post my final results in the thread.

#6 11 years ago

Having powder coated all my rails, they're very easy to remove. It takes me about 2 minutes to get a side rail off. The rail is garbage after. The rail is held on by the front bolt, sometimes a back screw or nail, and double sided tape.

1) remove the front screw
2) fold down the back board and remove the back screw or nail of it exists
3) get a long flat blade screw driver and start at the front.
4) Jam the screw driver in under the rail ripping the tape. Gently and slowly pry outward. You should never hear splintering wood. If you do, stop and go slower. Jam the screw driver in and pry gently letting the tape separate from the rail or the cabinet on each place you jam. You should jam it in every two inches or so and should not have to pry very hard

The rail will come off all bent leaving some tape on the cabinet. This tape can help you secure the new rail on. You definitely do not need so much tape as they uses before. Pinballlife sells new rails and tape. I put about 5 2" strips of tape on the new rail and stick it on with the screw in front and one in back that has a shallow enough head to clear the bracket when the cabinet folds down.

It's actually a much scarier sounding task than it is.

#7 11 years ago

Just for laughs I opened this thread hoping to see the infamous blow torch method.
I believe it was in the BR GRG. Priceless.

Just playing BR that is funny $*It

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