Quoted from PBEarwood:You could use a wrench, or socket. It doesn't take much to get them loose.
Okay thanks, I'll give it a whirl!
If the metal post starts turning inside the plastic post, you will need a second tool to grab the metal post. Unless you are ok with removing the whole post assembly.
A thin crescent wrench (spanner) works. Sounds like you were referring to this tool (which is available at pinballresource for $4). Needle nose pliers might also work if it is not on too tight.
0950C1C2-1E8A-4EE5-B06B-EFD33F598AF8 (resized).png
Quoted from jeffc:If the metal post starts turning inside the plastic post, you will need a second tool to grab the metal post. Unless you are ok with removing the whole post assembly.
A thin crescent wrench (spanner) works. Sounds like you were referring to this tool (which is available at pinballresource for $4). Needle nose pliers might also work if it is not on too tight.
[quoted image]
Yah, thats what I saw!
Definitely looks like a useful tool, I was just hoping to switch out some bulbs this weekend and hate waiting around for shipping. I'll have to see what kind of thin wrenches I can find locally.
pair of needlenose usually work, on both ends, no special tools needed. then throw those metal nuts in the trash. nothing but junk and a hassle.
get the plastic ones.
Buy a cheap 1/4 wrench and grind it a little thinner on a bench grinder. That's what I use. Works great
Thanks for the tips, good news is I got the plastics off, but my goal is to change the lightbulb but I can’t figure out how to remove the bulb. It doesn’t seem to want to unscrew from the top of the play field, maybe it’s just stubborn but I feel like I’ll break the bulb if I try turning to hard.
Under the play field puzzles me because it looks like even if I unscrew the one screw that attaches the socket, the metal wire is still stapled so it doesn’t look like it would move very much?
What’s the actual procedure to remove these bulbs, is it from topside or from underneath the Pf?
7DD274D5-A6EC-4260-8A10-C29E3355065A (resized).jpeg997C9194-073B-45B9-8E17-9E806048DED3 (resized).jpegpush down and turn counterclockwise , you should also change the rubber , it looks original and is cracked and yellowed
Quoted from luch:push down and turn counterclockwise , you should also change the rubber , it looks original and is cracked and yellowed
Oh! Pushing down was the secret, thanks!
Yep, rubbers are on my list shipping stinks from the US so I haven’t ordered those yet.
Quoted from Batcade:Oh! Pushing down was the secret, thanks!
Yep, rubbers are on my list shipping stinks from the US so I haven’t ordered those yet.
Where are you located?
Quoted from Mitch:Where are you located?
I’m in Canada too, suppose I should update my profile location.
Quoted from luch:where exactly ? you might be able to have stuff shipped from Player one
Outside of Kingston, ON.
I’ve ordered a few things from player one before, I’ll have to see if I can figure out what sizes of rubber I need because I don’t think they sell the kits.
i think this is what you need https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/151 , it gives you what sizes your game has and how many ,
Quoted from luch:i think this is what you need https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/151 , it gives you what sizes your game has and how many ,
Wow thanks!
let me see if i have enough of the rubbers to put this kit together , i can save you on shipping , canada post has free shipping on tuesday in oct for small bus accounts which is what i have , give me a few days , mike
Quoted from luch:i think this is what you need https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/151 , it gives you what sizes your game has and how many ,
I would not use titan rings.
Use original white rubber.
I know this is old post now, but I bought a rubber kit for mine at Marco. I also bought a buncha white barrel caps to replace the metal acorns. I think it makes the machine look brighter and cleaner and I never liked the feel of those caps tightening and loosening and you won’t need something to hold the post if the metal cap gets stuck. They’ll probably dry up and need to be replaced eventually but should be fine for many years. I kept the originals all in a bag for the diehards that want original parts if I ever sell it (not!). I also needed to replace a few screw posts in the process so good to order some of those too. If you’re ordering parts get yourself a new shooter rod spring too... highest tension (“red” one).
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