So on that topic.. what's the "right" way to pull these snap cap legs without damaging the board? Since it's the physical force holding them in..
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So on that topic.. what's the "right" way to pull these snap cap legs without damaging the board? Since it's the physical force holding them in..
Quoted from pindergast:I don't know if this is the "right" way, but I use a desoldering iron with pump to clean out as much solder as possible, then I clip the ends of the cap as close to the board as possible. If necessary, I'll heat up each contact and give it a light wiggle to get the end loose. Eventually it pops out quite easily.
I would think having the clipped lead would be a surface more likely to drag and damage the through hole. Unless the snip is on the side before the widest part of the lead..
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Here's what I do. I haven't torn a through hole since I started doing this.
1. Clip the leads of the existing cap close to the board.
2. Add solder to the leads, creating a small "dome" of solder
3. Heat both leads simultaneously with a broad iron tip. I have a "spade" type tip that can stretch across 9X .156 header pins at one time. It was pricey, but worth it since I perform this action so frequently on boards sent to me for repair. If you don't have a wide tip, use two irons. Heating the pads alternately and "rocking" the part is a poor substitute.
4. Once the solder on both pads is molten, see if light pressure can be used to "rock" the part out. If more than light pressure is required, then the through hole solder isn't completely melted.
Here's a video I posted using the tip to remove headers...nice.
» YouTube video
Rock on...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Is the only way you had that tip is through one of their full JBC stations? Doesn't look to be compatible with the pencils... and Wellers closest is only 10mm wide... and the Hakko spatula tips are only for their higher end series as well.
Quoted from Mitch:I couldn't see it working with a pencil style as it would take a lot of heat to warm the hole attachment. Don't think a pencil style would have the power.
I mentiin it inly in seeking cheaper alternatives than thei super expensive stations
Quoted from ForceFlow:Wow, that's a lot quicker than desoldering each pin individually. I wonder if weller has anything comparable to that tip.
Nope - biggest is 10mm
Quoted from pindergast:A solder goes cold
solder doesn't 'go cold' - A cold solder joint is one that was done improperly when it was MADE - and fails later due to the physical movement.
Jumpers are not hacks - they are used even in production modifications. The point is they are done properly, with the lead being secured and insulated where necessary.
You're hung up on cosmetics which mean nothing. Please keep throwing your money away buying excess boards... that usually means more spare boards for the rest of us.
Quoted from pindergast:Through hole repair and trace replacement, IMO, is a much better solution than running wires that can fall off, ground out, or short the board if someone nudges wrong in the right conditions with a cold solder
all of these concerns are matters of 'poor implementation' and have nothing to do with the use of jumpers
Wires that can 'fall off' are wires that were not secured with tape or glue
Wires that can 'ground out' are wires that were not insulated and trimmed properly
Cold Solder joints are bad solder joints - don't make bad solder joints
Quoted from pindergast:that they can't respect others' opinions
Because it's based in ignorance.
Quoted from pindergast:There are best practices for both through hole repair as well as trace repair.
which according to you are... is throw out the board and replace. Some great practices you got there...
Just make sure you keep those boards warm... we wouldn't want your solder going cold again!! /s
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