(Topic ID: 120157)

Removing backbox wh20 for restoration


By Blackbeard

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 61 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Blackbeard
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 years ago

Somewhat contemplating a restoration on just the backbox as the cab is really nice. I removed a taxi head once and it was a pain.

For others who have done this, would it be easier to disconnect the wire harness from the cpu/boards and feed it down into the neck OR would it be easier to disconnect the wire harness from inside the cab and feed the wiring upwards?

I may even go the route of a new head from Doug Huse..

Thoughts?

#2 4 years ago

What? No way you're going to de-solder the playfield harness from the playfield just to take off the head. LOL. Disconnect the harness plugs from the head and be done with it.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

What? No way you're going to de-solder the playfield harness from the playfield just to take off the head. LOL. Disconnect the harness plugs from the head and be done with it.

I guess I was under the impression that there were more connectors inside the cab way in the back to undo.

#4 4 years ago

If I do have to disconnect all the board connectors, does anyone have any tips in keeping things orderly/tidy? Obviously pics and labeling.. but what about zip tying, etc. And any tips for feeding the harness back up the neck once the backbox is back on?

#5 4 years ago

Just take a couple of pics. no need to label everything.

#6 4 years ago

Thanks.

It's mainly the edges of the backbox that need some love and new decals. My idea is to leave the boards intacked, just mask them off really well. Sand, putty, prime, paint, redecal, clear.

#7 4 years ago

I would wright on each conector the pin number Usually there's room.

#8 4 years ago

You have two main harnesses. The first (usually the black hose) is the playfield harness. It is comprised, generally of three separate harnesses. They are the switch, solenoid and GI harnesses. One end is soldered directly to the playfield, the other end to connectors in the Backbox. The other hose(usually gray) is the cabinet harness the connects all the cabinet items to the connectors in the Backbox.

The harnes holds its shape. Take pictures. I label each connector with the "J" connector number silkscreened on the board with painters blue tape. Taking them off and labeling will take time but reconnecting them should be a 5-10 minute process. Everything falls in place.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

I would wright on each conector the pin number Usually there's room.

That looks like crap and a pia to get off. Use painters blue tape and wraps around the wires, not the connector.

#11 4 years ago

I have this thread saved. Drano did an awesome job.

I need to order some backbox decals and buy a spray gun. There is one at harbor freight that doesn't use an air compressor and should be perfect for this use.

#12 4 years ago

There is no need to label the connectors.
Just look near the back of the manual for the connector list of each board.

#13 4 years ago

I just take detailed pics of the boards with the connectors in place.

#14 4 years ago

Yeah, I just take pics, etc. I'd probably tidy the harness up with ties too.

Anyone have any thoughts on type of decals to use, i.e. place to buy the best type?

#15 4 years ago

The best ones would be from Darin @ http://www.phoenixarcade.com ....not sure if he has any left .

#16 4 years ago

Looks like the backbox light panel disconnects inside the cab?! Tried to find the end of its wiring and it looks like it runs into the cab. Sound right?

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Looks like the backbox light panel disconnects inside the cab?! Tried to find the end of its wiring and it looks like it runs into the cab. Sound right?

Nope. It's in the head.

#18 4 years ago

Thanks Bryan I'll try to track it down.

#19 4 years ago

I wouldn't leave the boards in the game while you are sanding and painting even if they are masked off.

It looks confusing at first but after you get the playfield harness and cabinet harness out there's not many connectors left. And at that point you could just take the light panel off (they look really nice with a new coat of white gloss btw) and pull the ground plate out with all the boards attached ( if you don't feel comfortable removing them individually)

The head will be much easier to move around and no chance to damage any boards

#20 4 years ago

I will remove boards.

Three things:

1. Will be using spray paint in can. Painters touch deep blue. Will the wood need to be sanded completely of old paint or will the new paint cover after many light coats? Primer in a can to use?

2. The wiring harness: looks like such a mess inside the backbox. I'm guessing once it's unplugged it can be sorted/detangled and ziptied a bit to make it more cosmetically nice?

3. The support brackets inside the backbox: I'm assuming the bolts holding these on can be removed for restoration of wood without the structure collapsing?

#21 4 years ago

I removed the backbox of my White Water in the driveway of the guy I bought it from when I realized it wouldn't fit in my rental SUV, with weather coming in. Stressful...

Took me about 2 hours to put it back together. The wiring harness did kind of lay back into place, but there were several connectors that took me a while to figure out, and some that probably should have plugged in before others.

I did it with no labels, no hi res pictures - just a picture I found on IPDB.....

Worked 100% the first time it powered on.

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I will remove boards.
Three things:
1. Will be using spray paint in can. Painters touch deep blue. Will the wood need to be sanded completely of old paint or will the new paint cover after many light coats? Primer in a can to use?
2. The wiring harness: looks like such a mess inside the backbox. I'm guessing once it's unplugged it can be sorted/detangled and ziptied a bit to make it more cosmetically nice?
3. The support brackets inside the backbox: I'm assuming the bolts holding these on can be removed for restoration of wood without the structure collapsing?

You're going to all this work might as well do it right. Sand the head to bare wood. What that does is show you all the indentations and low spots. There will be paint left in these spots and bare wood around them. Fill, sand, prime. Then check your work and finish paint.

#23 4 years ago

1. Yes sand all the way. Wood fill sand more. You want a very smooth surface for decal application so you don't see any of the wood imperfections under the decal

2. The playfield harness is actually 3 harness tied together: switches, lamps, and high voltage (coils and flashers). So yes when removed you can group together and make some sense of things

3. Yes. Pull everything out of the backbox to clean

#24 4 years ago

Couple pics of wpc backboxs in various stages

First still in the game connected. Second harness removed. Third and forth putting it back together

image.jpg image-227.jpg image-303.jpg image-474.jpg
#25 4 years ago

Nice.

Using spray paint, should I paint the area under the side decals as much as the other areas of the backbox? Just wondering if the decals will stick better to primer than spray paint?

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Nice.
Using spray paint, should I paint the area under the side decals as much as the other areas of the backbox? Just wondering if the decals will stick better to primer than spray paint?

I painted mine and then sanded down so that it was sealed and glassy.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I painted mine and then sanded down so that it was sealed and glassy.

What do you mean?

You painted the sides then sAnded the paint down I the middle of the sides prior to laying the decals?

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

What do you mean?
You painted the sides then sAnded the paint down I the middle of the sides prior to laying the decals?

Pretty much. Spray paint is still going to leave some texture and imperfections. After doing the final coat I block sanded with 220 and then used a tack cloth to get any sanding residue up before laying down the decals. I did my decals wet so having the wood sealed was important as I didn't want to raise the grain.

#29 4 years ago

after final coat and sanding with 220IMG_4051.jpg

tack clothIMG_4064.jpg

positioning and weighting to keep in placeIMG_4065.jpg

after decal was installed i used a sanding block to "cut" the decal and give it a bevel instead of a razor knifeIMG_4054.jpgIMG_4057.jpg

hit up edge with paint pen. I'd do a search to see if there is a painter's pen that matches your color. I found a semi-gloss one that matched mine pretty well. IMG_4059.jpg

doneIMG_4068.JPG

#30 4 years ago

Awesome. Thank you for the clarification

This is my first time with this and I don't want to flub it up.

#31 4 years ago

Anyone have any recommendations on wood filler products?

#33 4 years ago

I have read on these forums about Bondo and this product:

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler

This product is specifically for wood and I used it to restore all the old windows in my 1909 home. It sands perfectly and performs like wood.

#34 4 years ago

Thanks.

My biggest concern is using something that spray primer will stick to well...

#35 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I have read on these forums about Bondo and this product:
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler
This product is specifically for wood and I used it to restore all the old windows in my 1909 home. It sands perfectly and performs like wood.

Lots of products work well. The nice thing about Bondo is it cures in about 30 minutes so you don't have to wait long to continue working.

#36 4 years ago

Is it pretty safe to remove the bolts on the sides of the backbox during sanding, etc? Then attach to the brackets inside, which add stability. The box would fall apart on me, will it if they're removed?

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Is it pretty safe to remove the bolts on the sides of the backbox during sanding, etc? Then attach to the brackets inside, which add stability. The box would fall apart on me, will it if they're removed?

It will not fall apart. If you want to do this right, remove everything. Clean it all before you put it back in. Restore the entire head. Inside and out. Don't cut corners. It's so easy to do it right.

#38 4 years ago

My other concern is the backside of the box. I want to save the decal, but paint around it as there are scratches, etc.

I was thinking of using frisket paper or something like that to tape off each line of the warning.

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

My other concern is the backside of the box. I want to save the decal, but paint around it as there are scratches, etc.
I was thinking of using frisket paper or something like that to tape off each line of the warning.

Find someone local who can rescreen the warning text. The blue you're using will NOT match the original color. At least it never did on the ones I've done. It'll be close but you'll see the difference on the back.

#40 4 years ago

The text on the back is screen printed. One of the first games I did I tapped off the text and painted. It looked ok. But it was a black head. Not sure if the blue would be better or worse. New screen print is the way to go

Reach out to your local pin community and see if anyone has a backbox screen you could borrow.

#42 4 years ago

There really aren't any people around that would have that.

My idea is to not just tape a big square over the warning, but do each line with frisket (time consuming I know) to really minimize the area so that it blends as well as possible without having to use a screen

#43 4 years ago

In that case just tape off the entire back and don't touch it. You won't notice a color difference between the sides and the back as much

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from nutshell79:

In that case just tape off the entire back and don't touch it. You won't notice a color difference between the sides and the back as much

Probably what'll I"ll end up doing.

The back isn't too bad.

#45 4 years ago
Quoted from nutshell79:

In that case just tape off the entire back and don't touch it. You won't notice a color difference between the sides and the back as much

That's kind of my thought too. If you tape off all the lines, you will see and feel edges everywhere you had tape. It will also be pretty obvious what you did.

#46 4 years ago

Thanks guys.

I'm trying this using the things I have available without breaking the bank.

I will forgo the backside of the box.

I'll use the painter's touch deep blue. Satin? Gloss?

Also I see painter's touch makes a spray primer.

#47 4 years ago

Use the grey primer and semi-gloss, although it may only come in gloss.

#48 4 years ago

I used gloss on my wh20. Do t have pics on my phone. If you want I can snap a few later tonight.

I also use the painters touch primer.

#49 4 years ago

Yes. I think the blue only came in gloss. Well at my local menards

#50 4 years ago

Once you've installed the decal, the fun begins. You're going to see a white edge against the newly painted blue. You'll want to tape off the decal around all the edges. Not sure what you'll do on the back edge as that will be the original paint. Spray some of the paint into a small container and using a small paint brush, touch up that white edge.

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There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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