(Topic ID: 129471)

Remove then replace mylar? Crazy??


By MT45

4 years ago



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  • 42 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by MT45
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Just got a good condition Big Betty's Truck Stop. Mylar is lifting on every insert. Does not affect game play. Looks terrible on an otherwise great looking (or soon will be) game. I can:
1) Leave it
2) Pull it and replace with fresh mylar
3) Pull it and clearcoat

Prefer option 2.
Anyone ever laid down new sheet of mylar?
How hard is it to manage a full PF sheet?
Can you apply using soap/water "wet" method?

Thanks
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#2 4 years ago

Another option you didn't list: Pull it and leave it. Looks great without the Mylar, occasional clean and wax once a year - or maybe twice if you play a lot. It'll be fine

#3 4 years ago

If mylar is lifting on most inserts, you'll likely have to reseat the inserts once you pull the mylar. I think lifting inserts is what causes the mylar to pull up around them.

If you pull it off, you could leave as is like wayout said. I'm kinda tossed about leaving it off though. I'd think some sort of protection, even in home use, would be beneficial. Although maybe waxing it often would be ok.

#4 4 years ago

If the inserts have sunk, the wood will quickly wear around them once you lift the Mylar.

My advice: Unless you plan on putting a clear coat on the playfield immediately, just leave it alone.

#5 4 years ago

I can almost feel the artwork coming up with that mylar. *cringe*

Unless you're gonna go full restore / touch-up / clearcoat I would probably just leave it as-is like vid suggested above.

#6 4 years ago

I use mylar to protect alll my pins just clean really well and wax and apply mylar . when its time to come up or a buyer dont want it it comes right up with no damage to anything of course this is on newer pins(after 1990) with some type of clearcoat.

#7 4 years ago

I'm very much inclined to leave it If, someone can share how to "glue it back down". I have a pro level heat gun.

I've stripped mylar before, then clearcoated with superb results (see my 3 years BOP thread) but, I've also read plenty of horror stories surrounding situations where it did not end well...

Can this be "fixed"? How would you try?

#8 4 years ago

I would leave as is, unless you want to touch and clear.

The only time I replace mylar is in high traffic areas (pops, ball drops, etc...)

#9 4 years ago

Bah. I have a game with a wear spot that has not increased in size in 4 years.....clearing is overkill in a home use IMO. If you keep the game clean and replace the balls with fresh occasionally, you will not wear out that game in your lifetime, IMO.

#10 4 years ago

The previous owner of my Pinbot did a ton of work to it which included removing the old Mylar and laying down new and the results were great! It sits next to an F14 that still has the original Mylar that has bubbling which does bother me a little. The fresh Mylar looks way more appealing!

#11 4 years ago

Thanks every one for the feedback. Here are some pics. Also included a pic of outlane so you could see the current condition of the playfield where there is no mylar. I'm inclined to remove it now and (big and) if the art stays on the PF, I'll add new mylar

Look at these pics and tell me what you would do...

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#12 4 years ago

Put leds in the inserts and you wont notice it when they are on. Great game, don't ruin your art trying to pull the mylar.

#13 4 years ago

Yea its not that bad id polish up everything as nice as possible and add leds then play the hell out of it

#14 4 years ago

I did this on my Tee'd Off.

It turned out nice. It definitely gives the play-field a shiny new look. Not as nice as clearcoat by far though.

Getting the old mylar off is the hardest part. I probably wouldn't do it again unless I was going to clear. It's really is a pain and it runs the risk of peeling paint.

Installing the new Mylar itself was cake though. I laid a full sheet over the entire stripped play field and then cut out all the holes/shooter lane. It's like putting on a giant screen protector for a phone, except with less bubbles.

#15 4 years ago

I'm big on removing Mylar IF it's bubbling and causing the ball to change unnatural directions......essentially effecting pin play to the point it annoys you. As long as it doesn't remove artwork and/or insert graphics....keep it waxed and clean and play it. I wouldn't re Mylar it again. That's just where I'd be....but that doesn't look bad at all.

#16 4 years ago

Where does everyone get their mylar from? Or is it all the same?

#17 4 years ago

Thanks all for added feedback. Lots of common sense advice and to be honest it does not at all look as bad as the images I shared.... Also, I've been able to bring old mylar up to a very nice shine with my buffer and some Novus 2 and Meguiars machine glaze. BTW, removing it is easy (I did it on my BOP) it's the results that worry all of us

Anyone else want to offer an opinion or thoughts?

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Where does everyone get their mylar from? Or is it all the same?

Tap plastics here in ca. 3mm thick, and half of what Marco charges

#20 4 years ago

Off-topic. Someday I hope I get to meet WayOut. I like that guy. I even hear the song in my head when I see his posts.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Tap plastics here in ca. 3mm thick, and half of what Marco charges

What kind of glue does it use?

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

Where does everyone get their mylar from? Or is it all the same?

ebay.com link

#23 4 years ago

Vid ... Would this one work too? Precut for Truck Stop and 2 mil
I used the other one you pointed to and it worked perfectly for the pops area of my Bride of Pinbot. Would like to save a step of creating template from existing mylar, then cutting new

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Truck+stop+mylar

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Vid ... Would this one work too? Precut for Truck Stop and 2 mil

Looks like it was made just for it!

Make sure you wax before installing any Mylar - so you can get it off at a latter date.

#25 4 years ago

Will do. Thanks. I waxed before I added piece to pops in BOP too.

#26 4 years ago

Marco Pinball has mylar pre-cut for Tuck Stop, if you still want to go this route.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

What kind of glue does it use?

I am not sure honestly. But it works great, and I have had 0 issues with it staying down, and is just as easy as the original stuff to remove.

#28 4 years ago

This is what I used and it worked great. The only problem was that part of the roll had a fold in it, so there's kinda a line going across my play-field. I can't get it to stick down at the fold.

I should have laid the sheet flat under some heavy books for a few days.

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from asay:

The only problem was that part of the roll had a fold in it, so there's kinda a line going across my play-field. I can't get it to stick down at the fold.

Try gently heating it with a hair dryer, then use a seam roller .

#30 4 years ago

Got mylar off today. My second time as I already completed my BOP last year using freeze method. Was afraid that freeze might cloud the inserts so I used my heat gun. Worked perfect and was done from start to finish without rushing in about 25 minutes. I literally lost no art or insert lettering to speak of!

In pics you can see I lost a speck of the "C" on left of playfield and about a little larger than a pinhead x2 in the main insert area (circled in yellow). It's as close to perfect as you can get. Very pleased.

Now, a question... I've removed the glue before using goo gone. Is that still best method to use considering age of this machine? I don't want to have a perfect mylar pull only to have a disastrous glue removal.

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#31 4 years ago

Pack the glue with white flour. Really rub it in.

Dampen the flour with 92% iso alcohol.

Allow alcohol to almost evaporate.

Roll up glue into little logs.

Super fast, and no obnoxious goo odor.

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from pinbum:

Marco Pinball has mylar pre-cut for Tuck Stop, if you still want to go this route.

I've yet to find a pre-cut mylar from Marco to fit.

#34 4 years ago

I had problems also with fit being 1 inch to big all around, so i called Marco and they sized a new one down for me. Some were fine but like you say indyhead a couple were slightly to large or to small.

#35 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I've yet to find a pre-cut mylar from Marco to fit.

Thanks for heads up on this. I can trim to size. On another subject. Were you pleased with your reinstall?

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

The Vid. That's what I'll do.!

How did the glue removal go?

In my case I lost no art when pulling the mylar, but lost some removing the glue.

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from asay:

How did the glue removal go?
In my case I lost no art when pulling the mylar, but lost some removing the glue.

Same here. Lost more in glue removal but still not much. Mostly small bits of black. Can fix in an hour max. This glue was waaaay tougher than my BOP. I'm about 2/3rds done. Hope to finish tonight. The inserts on this one are "many" and all in a tight space. Only way I could even get glue to move was lots of goo gone and plastic razor blades. Anytime you use the scraper where there are inserts, you'll lose a little. Overall very pleased with result and I'm probably going to just clearcoat it. This machine is about 2x easier to strip than BOP. Should go fast

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Same here. Not much. Mostly small bits of black. Can fix in an hour max. This glue was waaaay tougher than my BOP. I'm about 2/3rds done. Hope to finish tonight. The inserts on this one are "many" and all in a tight space. Only way I could even get glue to move was lots of good gone and plastic razor blades. Anytime you use the scraper where there are inserts, you'll lose a little. Overall very pleased with result and I'm probably going to just clearcoat it. This machine is about 2x easier to strip than BOP. Should go fast

Yea, flour+alcohol took about 80% of the glue off for me. The other 20% was much uglier and took a lot of goo gone.

#40 4 years ago

Funny. I tried flour and alcohol but it literally barely budged. I'm sure it was a "you're not giving it enough alcohol or not waiting long enough" issue but I just couldn't get it to budge. What little came up did roll up nice but it was so little it was not worth it. Softening with goo gone then working it off carefully with plastic razor was the trick. Still a tiny amount here and there that "won't move", wondering if my planned Novus 2 polishing would remove last bit? I'll then sand with 1000 grit just before clearcoat.

#41 4 years ago

Over 40 years, it's possible that different brands of Mylar were used - some easier to remove that others.

+ if the game ever froze in a garage, look out!

#42 4 years ago

Question for anyone with ramp repair experience. This is my ramp from Truck Stop. Almost impossible to tell it's missing these big pieces once installed BUT I want to repair so it does not get worse. Most damage is to upper ramps that take a beating from the upper flippers. They do, however, have metal protection plates and on the left upper ramp, that metal plate is the only thing the ball touches... Thoughts on repair? I'm not that concerned at all by the missing "C" shaped chunks missing at the ramp ends, more the structural tear outs on the sides. How well I can "fix" this will determine if I clearcoat this machine or simply re-mylar it after leveling the inserts.

What do you think? Epoxy?

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