I dunked mine in evaporust for a few days. Got rid of the rust but left some dark pitting. Then I sanded it forever till it was shiny again. Left it like that, but I think the proper course would be to use a bluing kit to get it the right color again. Not sure how the bluing will react with the plastic... Not sure if the evaporust is useful since you have to sand after anyways, but if you do use it, make sure all of the metal is in, otherwise you'll leave a line you can never fix :/

IMO that one's not bad enough to mess with...

You don't have to remove it from the ramp to use evaporust. I wouldn't submerge the decals though. I don't think it would damage them big the moisture probably would.

I would prefer not to use a liquid like evaporust since it's almost impossible to get any moisture out from between the ramp flap and the plastic (if there's any moisture left it will rust again very quickly). I would use sandpaper or a dremel tool with abrasive buffs. It's difficult to get the bluing to turn out well, but will probably look better than it does now. After bluing flush the area with alcohol and squeeze paper towels between the metal and plastic to remove any moisture. Air compressor or canned air will also help.

It can be done, but the best bet is to find someone local with the setup to press the rivets for you. You could post on here and probably get someone to help you out.

I use my drill press for the same thing works great. Mike

Gun Blue works well.

Any gun shops in Texas?

There are rust neutralizing pens in auto supply.

If the flap is a dark blue, and the rust isnt raised, the neutralizer turns rust black, and in some cases
blends well. Mask off playfield well first, if testing in game.

There are also spot sanding pens...on my list to try....

ebay.com link: sch

...or use it as an opportunity to experiment.

Alan

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Is that a replacement? Looks good!

Carbon Fiber...find it on Ebay.

Pinbits makes stainless steel replacement ramp flaps and they work great. You would obviously still have to deal with the riveting. I made a rivet press but sometimes in tight spots I have to use a hammer. I haven't had a ramp crack on me yet. I redid a Jokerz center ramp and was able to press most of them but had to hammer a couple.

Early on, when I was afraid to rivet, I found small chrome or brass with no slots and small nuts, I used these, and added some Loctite to the nut with tightening, and never heard or saw an issue....a bit of a cheating way, but no fear, easy, done in minutes back to a new metal ramp.

You can soak some evaporust in a paper towel and lay it down on the affected area. It's not quite as good as submerging, but it may help. I've done this for siderails.

I wouldn't hesitate to replace it, rivit it yourself if you are comfortable doing it. Greatest issue is making sure you have the proper rivet length.

That should Polish right off just tape off area with masking tape, I like to use autosol metal polish, or you could use that wading polish from the auto parts store.

I know the OP said no liquids, but just as a suggestion for any rusty metal part soaking in white vinegar works pretty well on Rust.

I can't vouch for Evaporust as I've never tried it, has anyone compared Evaporust to Vinegar?

You will do fine, not that hard. I would consider buying a new flap, pre blued, if you can. You can certainly buff off the rust and polish it, but the bluing kits can't match the finish or durability of the factory heated process.

You should be able to order from them online. I've bought the stainless steel flaps for BSD, ToM and they are great. They will never rust again and no lengthy process of cleaning and rebluing( I've done it). Or trying to cut your own (tried it) cant beat ones that are stamped out. Just drill out and install the new ones. I believe they also include press-less rivets for those who do not have a rivet press.

White Vinegar will do a good job on new rust, and light surface rust, for me. (different brands)
Evaporust will knock out 30 years of rust.

When in doubt, vinegar is cheap, and you can start there.....dont leave too long in any rust removing product.

If dull, it can be buffed, if you take a wire brush etc, rust can come off easier, but buffing can be harder to removes these new "scratches"....

I've has some pretty good results with Eagle One never dull wadding polish. Here are T3 before & after.

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I would just use 0000 steel wool and a little oil.Works for me.

This is 100% definitive proper method.

Birchwood-Casey

Look at these photos, buy the entire kit (don't cheap out), read the instructions, follow the instructions, and apply properly.
Remove the ramps from the game!
You need to make sure you silicon wipe with Barricade after application for even color.
Your spring steel ramp flaps will look BRAND NEW.
Do not jump steps, do the work properly.
Take the preparation time for best results.

NEVR-DULL is good for a few small spots.
Alternatively, you can pop rivet new ones inexpensively.

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Yep this is all i use on my 24inch chrome wheels and pinball parts and it works really well

Anybody saw video tutorial how to restore pinball flaps? i made as i read in instruction, but i have not solid layer, somewhere darker somewhere lighter. Any ideas what i made wrong?