(Topic ID: 148259)

Remote Battery Works But Doesn't Hold Desired Settings

By aytsgamer

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

Hello all. I just added a remote battery to my Flight 2000. My issue is that the game is not keeping the settings I set. I can tell the battery is working because I no longer turn the game on to zero credits after having several the night before. I locked in settings earlier today, played several games then turned off. Just turned it on to 51 credits and some weird high score to date. The problem with 51 credits is that there is a 40 credit max on the game. I also have had credits in the 90's. I am using a 4 AA holder with 3 AA's and a diode soldered into the 4th battery slot. Anything different about a classic Stern????

#2 8 years ago

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#3 8 years ago

Is there corrosion on the board?

#4 8 years ago

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#5 8 years ago

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#6 8 years ago

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#7 8 years ago

Vid there was slight corrosion on the board prior to adding the battery. I removed the old solder and cleaned/sanded it pretty well.

#8 8 years ago

The more I look at my neg lead it does have some lingering corrosion on the board. Definitely didn't come as clean as the other.

#9 8 years ago

Did you neutralize? There is not a lot but it still could be hidden and active. It is very close to the 5101 chip.

And just an FYI, I do not know anyone who uses those batteries. Nothing to do with the issue if they are fresh.

#10 8 years ago

Yes I neutralized the entire area just in case anything might be active. The previous owner clipped the old battery before I got it. There was enough corrosion to keep my first attempt at the battery from getting any voltage to the board.

The batteries are fresh, probably not the best choice. I just happened to be at one of the few Radio Shacks left in the country.

#11 8 years ago

With machine off measure the voltage at the board. Should be around 3.5v.
But chances of 5101 failed pretty good.
Do yourself a favor and grab an NVram from nvram.weebly.com
I swear just looking at those 5101 wrong and they go bad. One of the most static sensitive parts (or other failure) part ever made.

#12 8 years ago

is the diode the right way on

#13 8 years ago

From picture it sure looks right to me.

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from Raff:

is the diode the right way on

The banded side of the diode is facing the MPU in the positive connection. That is correct.
The original sockets, especially the 5101 sockets, were junk. 35+ years old, they are really junk now. They may not be the cause, but if they are the originals, they are suspect.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#15 8 years ago

You might have corrupt data in your ram. Go through each setting and zero them out, then set them where you want them, see if that helps.

#16 8 years ago

I think we have this issue figured out. Upon testing the voltage at the board I was only getting .05v. When I tested closer to the battery holder I got 4.3v. I then reworked/double checked my wiring and found a bad connection. Fixed the bad connection and had 4.3v at the board. Set all thresholds where I wanted them and turned the game off to test. 3hrs later the settings/recent scores were still holding.

Thanks again
Rob

#17 8 years ago

Is that AMI branded RAM???? if so get that shit off of your mpu board.

stern mpu-200 is sensistive about rams have matching speed. I would put in two PCD5101P or NVRAM(s)

#18 8 years ago

I'm pretty sure most of the components on the MPU are original so that is probably a yes on the RAM. You are the second to suggest that so, I will definitely correct that if so. Thanks for the heads up.

Rob

#19 8 years ago

Just curious..was the bad connection at one if the diode points in battery holder?

I have found that trying to solder to the battery terminals material is near impossible and joint will always be suspect.

glad you got it sorted out.

#20 8 years ago

No, I repurposed a little bit of wire from a parts power supply I had laying around to get the length I needed to reach the board. One of my splices had a bad connection.

Initially I tried to feed the ends of the diode through the ends of the holder and put a bead of solder on each end to hold it.( like the examples I found online.) But the plastic holder wasn't holding up very well to the heat, so I went another route.( you are correct though it took some doing to get a decent joint)

2 weeks later
#21 8 years ago

Will any diode work in the 4th battery location? I have a lot of DN4004 MIC. Unfortunately they are too short to span the distance so I am wondering what to use with it to get from + to -. Guess I could snip leads from another diode and solder them on or even put two diodes together in series....unless that's a bad idea.

Ha! I bought the same batteries yesterday! Half price! They will probably go in my trail cams instead of pins after reading this

#22 8 years ago

You could just jump the battery slot with wire and put the diode in series anywhere along the positive wite. Remember band side closest to board unbanded closest to batt pack

#24 8 years ago

Thanks. Will 18 gauge wire be ok for the diode install and for the wiring between the batteries and the board? I tried to find 24 today but 18 was as small as I could get. Sorry for all the questions. Still learning a lot about electronics and boards. Thanks for the great help!

#25 8 years ago
Quoted from wannabewiz:

Will 18 gauge wire be ok for the diode install and for the wiring between the batteries and the board?

Yes. 18 gauge will work quite well.
Twist the wires neatly.
See: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#How_to_Twist_Wires_Together_Neatly
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

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