You should have tried this one;
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBM

Hmmm... install advice that is actually helpful.

I would suggest enrolling in a 4 year electrical engineering program at an accredited college and then you'll learn the answer to your question, AND you'll get a valuable degree at the same time.

Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day, teach a man to fish, etc. etc.

YOU'RE WELCOME

Install NVRAM in your TSPP. It is a plug in play, 30 second upgrade. Easy to change as a game ROM. http://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

For the other games in your collection, if you're not wanting to do the soldering for NVRAM to remove the old RAM and install an IC socket, I could do the 3 for you, or upgrade to Lithium batteries that should not ever leak.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/00486-pinball-remote-battery-holder

Refer to this product picture. Since you already have the battery holder you can make it yourself.
A couple wooden dowels, two screws and solder lugs can make the battery holder you have do what you want it to do if that is the way you decide to go.

PM me if you need more guidance

I don't see the need to keep factory pack on. And honestly soldering wires to those battery holder terminals ends up with poor connection, melted plastics and trouble. So the dowel spacer with screw to act as battery pip is the way to go. I think that was the help first given. So to make your own is fairly easy buy/cut dowel material same size as AA. Two screws and two crimp ring terminals. Done.

But removal of holder, clean up of area and sticker saying remote holder installed and date of battery install is something I personally would much rather see.

Keeping it original looking doesn't score any bonus machine value. Not in the least.

That's like saying look !! All original electrolytes. NOT a good thing at ALL.

like pittpin said,

built your own battery holder, for $2.

look for 3xaa battery holder https://www.aliexpress.com

add longer wires and 3 pieces of wood you can get at home depot for less than a $1 and you're done.

I think it’s considered not elegant to solder wires directly to the original battery holder, but it’s always worked for me.

search youtube

As mentioned, desolder the factory battery holder from the PCB, you no longer need it, no value lost removing it. Then solder remote battery wires to "+" and "-" on PCB... Done. In the future, look into Nvram....

Bought some 3 cell AA holders.

I mounted mine in the backbox, lower right so when I swing the light panel out I have easy access. If I am saying anything wrong here, please correct me but my experience is that there is no necessity to remove the existing battery holder. I simply soldered to the upper right (facing the board) for positive and lower far left. Relocating the holder someplace away is imperative and there are a number of solutions. I also found that on one game that I could secure the replacement holder to the inside of the swinging panel depending upon clearance and length of the leads of the holder. But again, the points where you connect makes a difference. But the most important thing is to get those cells away from where they WILL do damage.

Guys you don’t want to install an external battery pack. We did that years ago and then put batteries in plastic bag. Just install lithium AA batteries. All problems solved. Never leak and no corrosive gases.

You sure about this? I mean getting a degree sounds like a better choice.......

What I would do is de solder the old battery holder and solder in your new remote one. You can do what others have mentioned as well, just depends on your skill and how comfortable
You are with soldering, but I’m sure folks have an opinion on this method as well

E8F43BF1-FE26-4C2F-B95C-3EBF01D2AE5F (resized).jpeg

Actually that was the most simple and helpful post in the thread. Based on your stated purpose and skill level you bought the wrong part. Throw it into a drawer and buy the other one. Personally I use NVRAM and no longer use batteries at all.

He speaks the truth. Don’t wreck your boards just spend the $5

Exactly.

All he said is that he wanted "install advice that is actually helpful", with no other criteria.

Within those broad parameters, my advice is technically the most helpful in the long run.

The return on investment of my idea blows all the other suggestions right out of the water.

I would use a plastic rod to make it a little less hillbilly.

psst.. (Wood has less potential to melt if something goes wrong)

Wood ?? Fire ?? Really. It makes no difference

He will do the smoke detector mod and be fine.

I'm just gonna leave this here to add to the drama.

https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

seriously, what could go wrong that would melt a plastic rod in the battery holder and not completely destroy your whole PCB?

a melted rod would be the last of your worries after the lightning strike.

How about this idea:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4X-Battery-Convertor-Adapter-Size-AAA-R03-to-AA-LR6/32795754994.html

put the empty battery adapters in the battery holder slots, there's no conductivity without the AAA inside.

The one battery with the wires, you neatly drill a small hole in the side and solder the wires inside.

“unsolder and remove the old battery” (holder?).

some games came with a rechargable battery soldered to the board

you would remove it and use the 3 regular batteries to power the game

except you need a 4 battery holder and solder a diode in the first slot so the game won't try to recharge your regular batteries

something like that

Unfortunately, you are too late. You have alkaline damage at minimum of what is in red. Yellow area is suspect.
Remote battery holder install Pinside Forum - Microsoft Internet Explorer prov_2018-04-09_16-44-08 (resized).png

I say, just install NVRAM and never have to worry about throwing another single battery in the trash. Go green as they say.
DE/Sega/Stern Whitestar boards already have the old RAM in a socket and anyone can change it who has changed a game ROM. True plug and play on those boards, 30 seconds and done.

For NVRAM on System 11 and WPC, I can install remove the old RAM and solder in an IC socket and install the NVRAM in 20 minutes. I'm willing to do this for anyone wanting my help.

I love factory original in lots of things. But ain't nobody going to care that you took the original battery pack off in order to have a more reliable machine. In fact, any future buyer will love you for doing this.

Good eye PinballManiac40 but I was not talking about the damage to that board at all, as this thread has nothing to do with that. So, though I thank you for your keen eye, that does not help this guy. FYI look now my friend...

s-l1600 (resized).jpg

Yes, it is a good thread for it. Brings to the attention of what many people do not know what they are looking for when someone says to look for battery corrosion, much less the need to continuously change alkaline batteries or suffer their ill affects. It also shows the alternatives to batteries.

That is a very nicely done repair, Sir. Well done! +1 for NVRAM that never forgets.

Point well taken. And I can’t take credit for the alkaline neutralization that’s all Chris Hibler he is the man when it comes to this. Cheers!