(Topic ID: 315573)

Solved: Relay sticks on, even after power cut

By RonSS

1 year ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by RonSS
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    #1 1 year ago

    Working on a CCM pitch n bat - Bullseye Baseball. Every so often the "bat control relay" under the playfield will get stuck, which causes a terrible racket and quickly blows a fuse!

    I can catch it if I run to cut the power, but the relay remains in the engaged position. I have to manually free it.

    I cannot reproduce this sticking action manually.

    Magnetized? Mechanical issue with the pivot flap?

    Thoughts appreciated.

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    #2 1 year ago

    Either magnetized or the leaf blade switch arcs and holds them closed.

    LTG : )

    #3 1 year ago

    Flexstone that switch and report back

    #4 1 year ago

    9/10 times it is magnetized.

    If you have a soldering GUN (not iron, gun), you can hold it close and try to use it as a degausser. It would prove to be a temporary fix in all likelihood, but would prove the point.

    You could also wrap the armature with a turn or two of electrical tape. This might actually work for a while, but you would need to readjust your contacts.

    I've heard of people whacking it with a hammer, but I can't vouch for that.

    Also load up the release a bit with the active contact. That may help.

    Your best bet is a new armature.

    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    Magnetized? Mechanical issue with the pivot flap?

    Just for a trial, slide a small piece of paper
    between the coil and plate, then give it a try.

    #6 1 year ago

    Thanks everyone.
    Looks like I have a few experiments to try tomorrow.

    So ultimately, new coil? Or new blades? Or both?

    #7 1 year ago

    The blades won't cause the armature to stick. You can swap in matching parts from other relays to isolate the problem.

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    So ultimately, new coil? Or new blades? Or both?

    A piece of paper between the coil and plate I'm thinking will let you know,
    and it's the plate that gets magnetized, so I usually change the plate. But in
    one strange instant I had a plunger that got magnetize and there was much
    involved to change it, so I just filed around it with a point file, wiped it with
    Lemon Pledge, and a little surprisingly, that did the trick.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from newmantjn:

    I've heard of people whacking it with a hammer, but I can't vouch for that.

    I've done that many times, with good success. Temporary fix is to put paper or tape between coil and armature plate.

    The switch looks quite bad, and may indeed weld itself closed preventing relay release. So, as already said, file the switch contacts or replace switch.

    #10 1 year ago

    Hammer method works great to reset any magnetism. I know this is the EM thread but I use this method a lot on 90s games ball gate where a coil pulls in to let a ball through and doesn’t close. There is usually a spring to aid it’s release but with enough magnetism it’s not enough. The skip ramp on RFM was famous for doing this.

    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    wiped it with
    Lemon Pledge, and a little surprisingly, that did the trick.

    Does it have to be "lemon" Pledge?
    Seriously though, put any magnetized parts in the freezer for a day or two. The cold will rearrange the crystalline structure of the metal, releasing the magnetic flux. Also, make sure you have an insulating brass washer between the base of the coil, and the bracket it's mounted in.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    Does it have to be "lemon" Pledge?

    If you want Spring Time Freshness..
    But Dead Scott, of course not for demagnetizing, but lemon pledge
    works good for slicking things up where oils shouldn't be used..
    (Good for Shuffleboard prepping also)..

    #13 1 year ago

    Don't mean to sound ungrateful, just haven't had time yet.

    I'll report back.

    #14 1 year ago

    Well, I removed the coil and flexstoned the contacts on the blades. Guess what, now it's sticking with no coil and no power.

    Looks though it may not be magnetic, but rather a mechanical issue with the blade holder thingy. Sorry I don't know the proper name.

    I can touch the contacts without sticking. I need to really extend the plate all the way and then they stick.

    #15 1 year ago

    I think it's time for a new contact/blade.

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    #16 1 year ago

    If you have a schematic, check to see if maybe there's supposed to be a resistor in that circuit. Seems like maybe too much current going through that switch.

    #17 1 year ago

    I have a schematic. Let me check tomorrow.
    Thanks.

    #18 1 year ago

    I had the same problem on an old Exhibit Supply game.

    See description and solution here:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/relay-residual-magnetism

    #19 1 year ago
    Quoted from Gotemwill:

    I had the same problem on an old Exhibit Supply game.
    See description and solution here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/relay-residual-magnetism

    Funny you mentioned this, and glad you posted. I too was thinking too much travel. My solution was going to be to shave off a little of the blade slot piece.

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    If you have a schematic, check to see if maybe there's supposed to be a resistor in that circuit. Seems like maybe too much current going through that switch.

    I see resistors for the bat, but not bat relay.

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    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    I see resistors for the bat, but not bat relay.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Are they using coils as resistors?

    #22 1 year ago

    I really don't know. Looks it at the bat end. I don't see anything else.

    #23 1 year ago

    Replaced the long blade. Problem "seems" solved. I'll run it through some paces before calling it official.

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