Fixing/Reinforcing Stern Cabinets with better Leg Plates - Step By Step

(Topic ID: 216251)

Fixing/Reinforcing Stern Cabinets with better Leg Plates - Step By Step


By vireland

3 months ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by vireland
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    #1 3 months ago

    So, I've posted some of this in a number of Stern threads from Ghostbusters onward when they started cost cutting on cabinet wood/glue/god-knows-what-else and cabinets started splitting. I just finished reinforcing an Iron Maiden and took pics this time so I can post more of a step-by-step instruction type thing this time, hopefully as a single reference instead of bits of this hidden in lots of different Stern threads.

    The goal is to replace the wimpy almost no-support Stern leg brackets with the older, more robust Bally/Williams style brackets to give some reinforcement to the new-improved cheaper, softer wood cabinets Stern is using now beyond what they ship with and reduce instances of splitting cab joints due to the stress this crappier wood can't withstand from unreinforced leg plates. Thank Stern's ongoing cost-cutting materials in their ever-more-expensive machines for this new required protection update on new machines!

    You'll need some supplies first. Here's your leg reinforcement shopping list:

    Wood screws (#10 x 3/4" Coarse Deep Thread Pan Head Screws) $6.95/100. These are real wood screws with a nice, wide bite. Don't use sheet metal screws. The difference in bite is obvious when you compare it to these:
    amazon.com link »
    screw-pic (resized).jpg

    Titebond III glue $7.47/16oz. The best wood glue on the planet:
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-16-oz-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-1414/100522343
    titebond3 (resized).jpg

    Bally/Williams Leg Plates (x4) $4.95. Marco has these too, I just get them from Terry at PBL:
    https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144
    leg-plates (resized).jpg

    Before installing for real, put a wood screw through the leg plate and line that up with the top edge of the cabinet to eyeball how far through the cabinet the screw will go. It should ALMOST come out the other side (like 1/16" from the other side). If you're concerned about this, use a lock washer to move the screw away from the other edge a little when you install it. Due to variation in cabinets, DO NOT INSTALL WITHOUT THIS CHECK FIRST. I don't want people putting pinholes through to the outside of their cabinets. I've done 5 machines and none needed a washer, came out the other side even a little, nor even made a pin-sized bump, but I ALWAYS PRE-CHECK, and you should, too.

    Turn the machine off, and raise the legs off the ground with a pin dolly or in a pinch, a stool.

    Here's the inside right of the cabinet. That vertical strip of metal is the "leg plate" from the Stern factory. Note that this brand new Iron Maiden Pro has this plate installed backwards from the factory. Those raised threaded holes should be pointing INTO the wood, and the black side of the plate should be facing out instead. What's become the usual lax Stern Q/A of late accidentally demonstrated fully when I did this upgrade.
    01_Inside_Right_Cab (resized).JPG

    Remove both legs from the front of the machine.

    Here's the inside left of the cabinet. Note that this plate has the correct orientation with the raised thread part not visible because it's going INTO the wood as it should. It's a little more complicated because on Iron Maiden at least, there are two wire-routing clips that have to be removed to make room for the wider bracket and then re-installed slightly off from where they were originally. Remove the three small screws from the bracket and slide the bracket out from under the wire braid to remove it:
    02_Inside_Left_Cab (resized).JPG

    I'm only showing pictures of the inside left removal since it's the harder one. Here's a comparison of what the machine comes with, and the enhanced bracket and better screws we're replacing it with:
    03_Bracket_Comparison (resized).JPG

    Spray some dry graphite lube (NOT regular WD-40) into the threads on the new bracket so the Stern leg bolts you're re-using will glide in easier. We don't want the nice, new brackets to be cross-threaded!
    04_Dry_Lube_bracket_Threads (resized).JPG

    Put the new leg bracket in place (note orientation of the two leg bolt holes should be situated near the TOP side) then screw in one of the leg bolts (without the leg) on the outside until it's finger-tight. Repeat with the bottom bolt. This will hold the leg plate in position while you put the screws in.

    Note that I have the cabinet ground braid (the flat metal braided wire) lined up so it passes just behind the upper center screw hole in the new bracket (you can kind of see the metal through the hole before I put the screw in in the picture below). Since the braid only has to contact the bracket tightly, and the new leg brackets will press against the wood corner brace tight enough, it's not necessary to screw through it, but I did anyway, just to make sure I had a good ground. Your choice if you want to be this picky with your upgrade. Pressed behind the plate is probably enough:
    05_Screw_Bolts_In_To_Hold Plate_In_Place (resized).JPG

    Dip a screw in the titebond (I just take the cap off and dip because it's faster than squeezing some on a screw) and brush the excess off by scraping against the bottle edge, then with your drill on LOW TORQUE (so you don't overtighten and reduce the effectiveness of the grab on the screw into the cabinet), screw it into the leg plate. I do one on the top, then one on the bottom opposite side, then fill in the rest. If the plate gets a little crooked after you put the first one in, straighten it a bit, then re-tighen the leg bolts to hold it again and then repeat the process until all 8 screws are in.
    06_Dip_Screws_In_Titebond (resized).JPG

    Put the wire guides back on (if applicable), then remove the leg bolts, put the leg on, and put the leg bolts back on and tighten with a wrench. One side complete.
    07_After_Drilling_All_8_Screws (resized).JPG

    Repeat for the other side, then if you wish, the back two legs, too. The front ones are the critical ones, but I usually replace all 4 while I'm in there.

    Congrats, you have reinforced your Stern cabinet to reduce the likelihood of it splitting on you!

    All done with this project? Here's a couple other guides I've made for newer Spike machines:

    Are LED lights popping out of your spotlights? Make sure they never fall out again:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

    Want to put a quieter fan in your noisy Spike power supply? I made a guide for that, too. It's here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans

    Iron Maiden speakers crackling (clipping) when you crank it up? Fix it with a cheap, external amp:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-on-board-amp-with-external-amp-for-iron-maiden

    Is your Spike machine occasionally resetting during hectic play, torpedoing your high score runs? This guide to fixing it might be for you:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-stern-reboots-on-spike

    #2 3 months ago

    Thanks for posting this.

    #3 3 months ago
    Quoted from indypinhead:

    Thanks for posting this.

    No problem. I had to update an Iron Maiden today and thought it was a good time to take pics for a step by step reference thread for those that want to do it to their machines.

    #4 3 months ago

    Awesome - thank you very much

    #5 3 months ago

    Awesome vireland my BM66 just started splitting so I have all these parts on their way to me already will certainly reference this mate nice one!

    #6 3 months ago
    Quoted from J85M:

    Awesome vireland my BM66 just started splitting so I have all these parts on their way to me already will certainly reference this mate nice one!

    No problem. With the splitting cab issue re-appearing on Iron Maiden, it was time to get this information all in a thread of its own so people can reinforce their Stern cabs at will BEFORE they have a chance to split.

    #7 3 months ago

    Just curious if there has been any examples of a cab splittling and showing something other than cosmetic damage? My Sterns get thousands of plays on location and I've had zero issues but was wondering for future consideration.

    #8 3 months ago

    Kick ass! Thank you for posting this!

    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from fattdirk:

    Just curious if there has been any examples of a cab splittling and showing something other than cosmetic damage? My Sterns get thousands of plays on location and I've had zero issues but was wondering for future consideration.

    There have been a couple pictures posted with more than just sticker tears - actual gaps that developed, but you'd have to dig through the threads to find the pics. Most people see the split starting and upgrade the leg plates to arrest it and that's the end of it.

    #10 3 months ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    There have been a couple pictures posted with more than just sticker tears - actual gaps that developed, but you'd have to dig through the threads to find the pics. Most people see the split starting and upgrade the leg plates to arrest it and that's the end of it.

    Have there been any more than the 2 Iron Maiden Pro machines at Allentown that have shown signs of splitting, recently?

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from Chambahz:

    Have there been any more than the 2 Iron Maiden Pro machines at Allentown that have shown signs of splitting, recently?

    I think the first word on pinside of Iron Maiden cabs splitting was the last few days. I hadn't seen any mention of it before then, but that makes sense as the Pros have only been out a couple weeks.

    #12 3 months ago

    good on you for posting this.
    I know that's one of the first things I do to any game that has those crappy leg brackets. Just put some on a Spiderman vault a couple days ago, even if the cab doesn't split, the brackets seem to strip relatively easily. crappy thing about sam is the round cord thing in the back, you either have to put the cord thing over it, or cut a piece of the bracket off. Wish stern games came with these, it'd save me a little time.

    #13 3 months ago

    Do you remove the playfield to put the back support brackets on? The front ones appear to be easy with the playfield in the upright position.

    #14 3 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzzz:

    Do you remove the playfield to put the back support brackets on? The front ones appear to be easy with the playfield in the upright position.

    I did remove my playfield, because I also install art blades after installing the cabinet brackets

    #15 3 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzzz:

    Do you remove the playfield to put the back support brackets on? The front ones appear to be easy with the playfield in the upright position.

    No, I'm lazy. I just pull it all the way forward and rest the PF on the service brackets. It's a little tight, but totally do-able for the back ones that way.

    Quoted from Spiderpin:

    I did remove my playfield, because I also install art blades after installing the cabinet brackets

    For the future, if you do a wet install, you can do art blades pretty easily without removing the PF.

    #16 3 months ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    No, I'm lazy. I just pull it all the way forward and rest the PF on the service brackets. It's a little tight, but totally do-able for the back ones that way.

    For the future, if you do a wet install, you can do art blades pretty easily without removing the PF.

    Can you describe the "wet install" method?

    #17 3 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzzz:

    Can you describe the "wet install" method?

    Just make a spray bottle with soapy water (like a tablespoon of dawn or whatever), then unpeel the art and spray the sticky side. Then while the art blade back is wet and a little soapy, slide it into place (with the PF up when I do it, usually) until you get it lined up, then use a squeege (or something with a soft, firm edge) to squeeze out all the water and any small air bubbles. It's a very forgiving install method.

    Here's a youtube video demonstrating (starts at about the 14:38 mark):

    #18 3 months ago

    Smaller less expensive bottle of Tilebond III for under 4 bucks on amazon. you can put this in your shopping cart plus the screws. but will need a minimum 25.00 order with amazon for the free shipping due to it being an add-on item.

    amazon.com link »

    #19 3 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzzz:

    Smaller less expensive bottle of Tilebond III for under 4 bucks on amazon. you can put this in your shopping cart plus the screws. but will need a minimum 25.00 order with amazon for the free shipping due to it being an add-on item.
    amazon.com link »

    That's why I bought the gallon of glue for $40.00 and 1000 screws for $26.99. Can't help but to buy in bulk, just like the brackets when I purchased them from BPL.

    #20 3 months ago

    You just paid $66.99 for glue and screws?
    Kinda metal af but no.

    13
    #21 3 months ago

    A word of caution. There is no reason to glue the screws in, it may be impossible to remove the plate if you ever spin one of those pressed in thread fittings. I've spun 2 of those fittings because of bad bolts cross threading and if I had glued the screws in I would have really been in a world of hurt to get that bad plate off. The 8 screws are more then enough to keep that plate from ever coming loose.

    #22 3 months ago

    Great post! What the hell do those wire braids do anyway? Always wondered.

    #23 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sinestro:

    Great post! What the hell do those wire braids do anyway? Always wondered.

    That’s your ground for the cabinet.

    #24 3 months ago
    Quoted from tktlwyr:

    That’s your ground for the cabinet.

    That had crossed my mind, but wasn't sure.

    I see the OP just covered them with the new brackets. No issues there I assume?

    #25 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sinestro:

    That had crossed my mind, but wasn't sure.
    I see the OP just covered them with the new brackets. No issues there I assume?

    No issues. As long as there is electrical conductivity between the braid and the leg brackets (whether the braid goes behind or in front of them doesn't matter) then the legs will be grounded as intended.

    #26 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sinestro:

    Great post! What the hell do those wire braids do anyway? Always wondered.

    Cabinet ground. I just left them behind the bracket and screwed through it with the top center screw. Honestly, you don't even need to screw through it since the new bracket will be pressed tight against it and that's enough.

    Thanks for pointing that out. Sometimes I overlook explaining things that a newer pinhead might not know. I'll explain it a little better in the OP.

    #27 3 months ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    A word of caution. There is no reason to glue the screws in, it may be impossible to remove the plate if you ever spin one of those pressed in thread fittings. I've spun 2 of those fittings because of bad bolts cross threading and if I had glued the screws in I would have really been in a world of hurt to get that bad plate off. The 8 screws are more then enough to keep that plate from ever coming loose.

    Nah. I've been able to take the leg plates back off, even when the screws are glued in. I had an Addams I had to re-do after one plate got cross threaded. It was no big deal. It's not like lock-tite where you have a machine screw going into metal - THAT can be hard to get out. This is a wood screw into wood with some glue to help it grab a little better. No problem getting them back out if you need to, but if you do, you DEFINITELY need to use glue the second time when you're screwing back into the holes you already made.

    #28 3 months ago

    Screwed up my order...thought it came with 4 as a bundle! Did the corner above the shaker. Not too bad. The other side will be a bitch. The back two look super easy to do. However, I noticed tonight that you have to reverse the orientation of the bracket for the back two. There's no room to mount them in the orientation where the threads are at the top.

    #29 3 months ago

    LOL! There's some jokers in the Stern Enthusiast Facebook group claiming that Stern's brackets are superior to the Bally/Williams ones!

    Sheesh! And I get accused of being a Stern fanboy......

    #30 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sinestro:

    LOL! There's some jokers in the Stern Enthusiast Facebook group claiming that Stern's brackets are superior to the Bally/Williams ones!
    Sheesh! And I get accused of being a Stern fanboy......

    Thats got to be Who-day!

    #31 3 months ago

    vireland we had our differences before, but I really appreciate this thread. I just bought 12 brackets for $60, cheap insurance. Very disappointed that Stern cheaped out on such a fundamental part of the game to save $20 (at most).

    #32 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sinestro:

    ...some jokers in the Stern Enthusiast Facebook group claiming that Stern's brackets are superior to the Bally/Williams ones!

    When you say "Stern's brackets" do you mean this design? This example is from 1962, long before Stern was around. It's been used successfully on literally thousands of games.

    2018-05-10 23.14.52.jpg

    #33 3 months ago

    i got rid of my MOPLE a while back and since havnt a stern in the line up
    this is a great thread and thanks to the OP for starting
    ation
    BUT i am bewildered that stern hasnt been using these or an improvisation of these brackets
    with the issues they have been facing in QC
    what would the cost be in the manufactring phase to install these $10

    standards ?

    #34 3 months ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    vireland we had our differences before, but I really appreciate this thread. I just bought 12 brackets for $60, cheap insurance. Very disappointed that Stern cheaped out on such a fundamental part of the game to save $20 (at most).

    We have? I don't remember, but whatever it was, I'm sure it was just a matter of time until you saw it my way.

    Glad I could contribute to reducing the instances of Stern cabinet splitting for you and everyone here. It sucks that Stern doesn't AT LEAST offer the better leg plates on ALL their Prem/LE machines, but we're all obviously just living in Stern's cost-cutting world while trying to find ways to mitigate the ever-cheapening build quality.

    #35 3 months ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    When you say "Stern's brackets" do you mean this design? This example is from 1962, long before Stern was around. It's been used successfully on literally thousands of games.

    The problem is Stern decided to use those brackets AND substantially reduce the quality of the cabinet wood. 1962 cabinets are tank-grade. You can't use crappier wood and bare-minimum brackets without seeing the results we're seeing in the wild.

    #36 3 months ago

    So here’s an interesting thing, I was honestly really surprised. I checked my LOTR (2003) and POTC (2006), and the also had the cheaper leg brackets. Has anyone ever reported cabs splitting on these games? I think the heftier leg brackets are good insurance on these newer pins, but clearly they were not needed until recently. What happened?

    #37 3 months ago
    Quoted from swampfire:

    So here’s an interesting thing, I was honestly really surprised. I checked my LOTR (2003) and POTC (2006), and the also had the cheaper leg brackets. Has anyone ever reported cabs splitting on these games? I think the heftier leg brackets are good insurance on these newer pins, but clearly they were not needed until recently. What happened?

    The wood Stern changed the spec to was cheapened. It was a "hidden" cost reduction that happened (from observation) around the release of KISS. Some KISS seem to have the older, better wood cabs, some have the crappier, softer wood cabinets. EVERYTHING after KISS has the crappy softer wood cabinets from what I've seen.

    Same reason JJP and CGC are essentially unaffected - they still use good cab wood. This is a Stern special because only Stern over-cheapened their cabinet wood in the interests of squeezing more cost out of every machine. What we've learned is you can't use wimpy leg plates AND cheap, soft wood. It's either/or. We're Stern's real-world lab, and we pay to participate.

    #38 3 months ago

    An alternative supply for the screws.

    ebay.com link

    Plus, it's cheaper, free shipping, and looks like it comes directly from the manufacture.

    #39 3 months ago

    I don’t think the “spec” changed in so much as the supplier changed for the cabinets. They are clearly different now in both joint appearance and other things. They don’t look anything like the older cabinets or the current Churchill ones.

    #40 3 months ago

    vireland are the joints on your splitting cabinets different than these? The photo with the metal is a 1962 Gottlieb, the other a 1976 Bally.

    IMAG0580_1.jpg

    IMAG0581_1.jpg

    #41 3 months ago

    Stop your complaining.....just buy them.

    2a3vne (resized).jpg

    #42 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    You just paid $66.99 for glue and screws?
    Kinda metal af but no.

    I paid about .31 per oz.= $5.00 for 16 oz.and not $7.49 fir 16 oz.
    Screws around .025 each and not .064. Each Or yes $66.99 no big deal. I needed microfiber towels to clean pinball glass I bought 432 towels per box. I just ordered 250 pinballs because I need 6 for AS and 4 for TWD. Like I said, I buy in bulk.

    #43 3 months ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    but if you do, you DEFINITELY need to use glue the second time when you're screwing back into the holes you already made.

    if some of the wood came out on the first go round you shouldn't need glue the second go round either... at least not with the screw.
    Usually If I have a wood hole that is loose all you have to do is
    - get some toothpicks add a little wood glue to the end and break them off in the hole.
    - cut down the parts that are sticking out of the hole
    - make it flush again.
    - let the wood glue dry
    - now the screw has something to grab onto.

    #44 3 months ago

    Vireland are you sure about the screw length? Not questioning you but I saw someone say 1/2 inch in another thread. I am just afraid of going through cabinet.

    #45 3 months ago
    Quoted from starbase:

    Vireland are you sure about the screw length? Not questioning you but I saw someone say 1/2 inch in another thread. I am just afraid of going through cabinet.

    I just did my AS today. I went slow and 3/4" screws that are listed worked. The bracket have some thickness to them as well. Like he said if you want add a small washer.

    #46 3 months ago

    I would add a washer, the wood is very soft.

    #47 3 months ago
    Quoted from Spiderpin:

    I just did my AS today. I went slow and 3/4" screws that are listed worked. The bracket have some thickness to them as well. Like he said if you want add a small washer.

    How thick is the plywwod on a Stern cabinet 7/8”?

    #48 3 months ago

    Ok thanks will pick up washers. Back cabinet sounds alot harder to reach then the front, any tips for that other then pull playfield out and to the side?

    #49 3 months ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    So, I've posted some of this in a number of Stern threads from Ghostbusters onward when they started cost cutting on cabinet wood/glue/god-knows-what-else and cabinets started splitting. I just finished reinforcing an Iron Maiden and took pics this time so I can post more of a step-by-step instruction type thing this time, hopefully as a single reference instead of bits of this hidden in lots of different Stern threads.
    The goal is to replace the wimpy almost no-support Stern leg brackets with the older, more robust Bally/Williams style brackets to give some reinforcement to the cabinets beyond what they ship with and reduce instances of splitting cab joints due to Stern's ongoing cost-cutting materials in their ever-more-expensive machines.
    You'll need some supplies first. Here's your leg reinforcement shopping list:
    Wood screws (#10 x 3/4" Coarse Deep Thread Pan Head Screws) $6.95/100. These are real wood screws with a nice, wide bite. Don't use sheet metal screws. The difference in bite is obvious when you compare it to these:
    amazon.com link »

    Titebond III glue $7.47/16oz. The best wood glue on the planet:
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-16-oz-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-1414/100522343

    Bally/Williams Leg Plates (x4) $4.95. Marco has these too, I just get them from Terry at PBL:
    https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

    Before installing for real, put the screw through the leg plate and line that up with the top edge of the cabinet to eyeball how far through the cabinet the screw will go. It should ALMOST come out the other side (like 1/16" from the other side). If you're concerned about this, use a lock washer to move the screw away from the other edge a little when you install it. Due to variation in cabinets, DO NOT INSTALL WITHOUT THIS CHECK FIRST. I don't want people putting pinholes through to the outside of their cabinets. I've done 5 machines and none needed a washer, came out the other side even a little, nor even made a pin-sized bump, but I ALWAYS PRE-CHECK, and you should, too.
    Turn the machine off, and raise the legs off the ground with a pin dolly or in a pinch, a stool.
    Here's the inside right of the cabinet. That vertical strip of metal is the "leg plate" from the Stern factory. Note that this brand new Iron Maiden Pro has this plate installed backwards from the factory. Those raised threaded holes should be pointing INTO the wood, and the black side of the plate should be facing out instead. What's become the usual lax Stern Q/A of late accidentally demonstrated fully when I did this upgrade.

    Remove both legs from the front of the machine.
    Here's the inside left of the cabinet. Note that this plate has the correct orientation with the raised thread part not visible because it's going INTO the wood as it should. It's a little more complicated because on Iron Maiden at least, there are two wire-routing clips that have to be removed to make room for the wider bracket and then re-installed slightly off from where they were originally. Remove the three small screws from the bracket and slide the bracket out from under the wire braid to remove it:

    I'm only showing pictures of the inside left removal since it's the harder one. Here's a comparison of what the machine comes with, and the enhanced bracket and better screws we're replacing it with:

    Spray some dry graphite lube into the threads on the new bracket so the Stern leg bolts you're re-using will glide in easier. We don't want the nice, new brackets to be cross-threaded!

    Put the new leg bracket in place (note orientation of the two leg bolt holes should be situated near the TOP side) then screw in one of the leg bolts (without the leg) on the outside until it's finger-tight. Repeat with the bottom bolt. This will hold the leg plate in position while you put the screws in.
    Note that I have the cabinet ground braid (the flat metal braided wire) lined up so it passes just behind the upper center screw hole in the new bracket (you can kind of see the metal through the hole before I put the screw in in the picture below). Since the braid only has to contact the bracket tightly, and the new leg brackets will press against the wood corner brace tight enough, it's not necessary to screw through it, but I did anyway, just to make sure I had a good ground. Your choice if you want to be this picky with your upgrade. Pressed behind the plate is probably enough:

    Dip a screw in the titebond (I just take the cap off and dip because it's faster than squeezing some on a screw) and brush the excess off by scraping against the bottle edge, then with your drill on LOW TORQUE (so you don't overtighten and reduce the effectiveness of the grab on the screw into the cabinet), screw it into the leg plate. I do one on the top, then one on the bottom opposite side, then fill in the rest. If the plate gets a little crooked after you put the first one in, straighten it a bit, then re-tighen the leg bolts to hold it again and then repeat the process until all 8 screws are in.

    Put the wire guides back on (if applicable), then remove the leg bolts, put the leg on, and put the leg bolts back on and tighten with a wrench. One side complete.

    Repeat for the other side, then if you wish, the back two legs, too. The front ones are the critical ones, but I usually replace all 4 while I'm in there.
    Congrats, you have reinforced your Stern cabinet to reduce the likelihood of it splitting on you!
    ALL done with this project? Here's a couple other guides I've made for spike machines:
    Want to put a quieter fan in your noisy Spike power supply? I made a guide for that, too. It's here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans
    Is your Spike machine occasionally resetting during hectic play, torpedoing your high score runs? This guide to fixing it might be for you:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-stern-reboots-on-spike

    This is really great, thanks.

    This should be the new job of the idiot at Stern who came up with the idea of customers submitting a videotape as to why they deserve a BM66SLE.

    #50 3 months ago
    Quoted from Concretehardt:

    How thick is the plywwod on a Stern cabinet 7/8”?

    I haven't measured it, but my guess would be 3/4". The bracket about 3/16". Like I said I went slooow and had my finger on the outside of cabinet and didn't feel any movement for every screw I did.

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