(Topic ID: 211620)

Refrigerators


By pcprogrammer

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 124 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 25 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    image (resized).jpg
    image (resized).jpg
    image (resized).jpg
    General-Electric-Refrigerator-GE-Vintage-Coppertone-Brown-1960s (resized).jpg
    20180313_100000 (resized).jpg
    20180313_100008 (resized).jpg
    20180313_095649 (resized).jpg
    20180313_083753 (resized).jpg
    Screenshot_20180312-003133.png
    Screenshot_20180312-002309.png
    Screenshot_20180312-002256.png
    IMG_0981 (resized).JPG
    f35f2d6cdc4f198c769774236ae921f6--rotary-phones (resized).jpg
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    46a4c6754e34639c7623b069532f593dc744ec6f (resized).jpg

    There are 124 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
    #101 1 year ago

    The reason i asked is because if that evaporator cover isn't installed, the heat from the defrost heater will not be directed upward toward the coils (and in result, it won't defrost properly--even the heater, defrost thermostat, and ADC are good)... Put the evaporator cover back on and let the refrig run for a few days. If temps stabilize around 0 in freezer and 37 in refrig--then you're all done. If in a week or 2 the problem returns, then you may still have an issue with the ADC.

    #102 1 year ago

    Hi pcprogrammer.
    What you are going through is exactly what I went through on my side by side kenmore. After testing continuity on the freezer heater element and finding out that was good, I found my way to the defrost circuit board that was located in the refrigerator side where my controls were. I found that the relay on that defrost board was not working so I ordered a defrost board on eBay. Think I paid about 40$ or less with free ship. That fixed it for me and all the iced up freezer coils got defrosted. The defrost relay kicks on and off several times a day and the contacts inside the relay spark and no longer get the current out to the heater element. I took the relay off the old board and confirmed this with my multimeter. I am sure I could have just replaced the relay but bought the new control board in case my suspicion was wrong. Going strong now for the last six months. Hope this helps you because it is far cheaper than a new fridge. Swapping that small board takes 5 min and is very easy to do.

    #103 1 year ago
    Quoted from gr3456:

    Hi pcprogrammer.
    What you are going through is exactly what I went through on my side by side kenmore. After testing continuity on the freezer heater element and finding out that was good, I found my way to the defrost circuit board that was located in the refrigerator side where my controls were. I found that the relay on that defrost board was not working so I ordered a defrost board on eBay. Think I paid about 40$ or less with free ship. That fixed it for me and all the iced up freezer coils got defrosted. The defrost relay kicks on and off several times a day and the contacts inside the relay spark and no longer get the current out to the heater element. I took the relay off the old board and confirmed this with my multimeter. I am sure I could have just replaced the relay but bought the new control board in case my suspicion was wrong. Going strong now for the last six months. Hope this helps you because it is far cheaper than a new fridge. Swapping that small board takes 5 min and is very easy to do.

    Yea, I already took the board out once to clip off that resistor, it's pretty easy to get the board out. I was going to buy one on eBay also, but the problem is the one I found was $30 and it was a 10 year old used board also. Probably be best to just get a brand new one for $160. I'm guessing these boards only have a 10 year life to them, give or take a couple years, especially with what you described with the relay.

    The defrost still hasn't kicked in since I posted last time. I think I'll take the plunge and buy a new board. Thanks to frunch and gr3456 for your insights into helping me get it fixed.

    #104 1 year ago

    One last suggestion before buying a new board (which it's starting to look like it may be needed after all)--everything is wired up the same as it was originally? Specifically, the heater and defrost thermostat. Also, is the defrost thermostat attached to the evaporator coil?

    Also, you've reinstalled the evaporator cover, right? As i mentioned earlier, if the cover isn't installed, it won't defrost properly. The cover contains the heat and ensures the heat can only travel upward to the coils. If all that's been done and your refrig section temps are not holding around 37 degrees, then it sounds like the adc will need to be replaced. Good luck!

    #105 1 year ago

    Still had the old part from back in August when I did this. The white cable they sent along and I did not need. Do you have a part # or model # of the fridge? I am thinking you can get a new one for less than 50 brand new on eBay.

    image (resized).jpg

    image (resized).jpg

    image (resized).jpg

    #106 1 year ago

    W10135901 should be the model number. I haven't been able to find it any less than $160

    #107 1 year ago

    Love the black stainless appliances. We bought the entire kitchen set from Samsung granted it's only 15 months old but so far no issues.

    #109 1 year ago

    I just took the number you gave me
    W10135901
    Put it in eBay and found 3
    2 were used
    1 refurb for $50.12 and 14.88 shipping.
    if it was me, I would buy the refurb.
    Bet it has a new relay on the board.
    Think he had money back guarantee too.

    As far as a new fridge goes....forget Lowes.

    My girlfriend got a new frigidaire top freezer bottom refrigerator stainless just after Christmas. No fancy anything. I installed the optional ice maker and we noticed the freezer would not stay at 0 degrees. Put in a
    thermometer and it spent more time at 15 degrees than 4 degrees and rarely hit 0. Ice cream soft and ice packs never completely frozen. Had it set to coldest it could get.
    Had them come with a new one to swap it out.
    New one is not much better. I think the frigidaire is junk. Now we have soft ice cream again. They are not made as well so I hope my Kenmore lasts now for a while after the ADC board got replaced. My Kenmore is at 0 to -4
    consistently. Good luck with whatever way you go.

    #110 1 year ago

    Bought an LG last year and hate it.
    It can't control the temperature worth a crap.
    Had LG come out and fix it in the first month. And the third month. And the 6th month. And the fourth time - they responded with "existing problem, we won't fix". Heck - still under warranty and they won't fix?!?!
    Called the store where we bought it (Nebraska Furniture Mart) to complain. Within 10 minutes - LG called and said they would be out within the hour. They replaced half the fridge. Worked for about 6 months and now it's having temperature control problems again. Won't buy that brand again.

    1 week later
    #111 1 year ago

    New circuit board did the trick! It went into a defrost mode right away after I installed it and plugged the fridge back in!

    #112 1 year ago

    We have a GE fridge (came with the house, new construction) from 4 years ago... A year or two ago we woke up and the fridge was completely dead. No power to anything. Weird... We checked fuses, checked the outlet, everything was fine. Couldn't figure out the issue, so called for someone to come out. He spent a few hours and couldn't figure it out either. Eventually he removed one of the LED light bulbs... and everything came back to life! The LED board died and for some reason that took out power to the ENTIRE APPLIANCE. Stupidest design ever. It'd be like if your headlight on your car goes out, and the car shuts down while on the highway. Stupid. At least GE paid for the entire repair (out of warranty), and luckily it was winter in Minnesota, so we stored most of our frozen food outside.

    #113 1 year ago

    I would recommend anyone with a newer fridge to connect it to a surge protector due to the amount of electronics in today's fridges. Amazon sells single socket surge protectors that will do the trick for $10. Same goes for dryer / washer and chest freezers.

    On that note my grandmother just finally had a fridge die in her basement that was from the late 50's. It was being used as a fridge for pop / beer for the past 30 years and always kept drinks cold. Crazy how long it lasted compared to today's household appliances.

    #114 1 year ago

    Awesome pcprogrammer!! Had a feeling you had that issue that I lived through in August. The relay was probably burned out from all the internal sparking over the years. Mine is running strong and probably will for years now. Well done and glad you could fix it!

    #115 1 year ago
    Quoted from PanzerFreak:

    I would recommend anyone with a newer fridge to connect it to a surge protector due to the amount of electronics in today's fridges. Amazon sells single socket surge protectors that will do the trick for $10. Same goes for dryer / washer and chest freezers.

    If you are comfortable with working inside a breaker box, these occasionally go on sale for a good bit less and cover the entire home. Much more protection than your average surge protector for that matter.

    amazon.com link »

    #116 1 year ago

    I have a Kenmore French Door Trio that was purchased 15 years ago with new home. Still have it
    with one small breakdown 6 years ago. It does have an ice maker but internal. Nothing on door.
    Water and Ice inside. No further problems. Knock on wood!
    I believe this fridge was built by Maytag back then. It was the first three door fridge to come out
    by Kenmore.

    #117 1 year ago

    Do you like ice? Does your family use a lot of it? If so do not buy a GE. My GE frig doesn't make enough ice for one person much less a family of four. You have to keep the Max Ice on at all times for it to even make enough to use and that only stays on for 24 hours. Also, all the drawers and shelves are broken because they are cheap crap and the shelves in the freezer fall and everything in the freezer falls to the bottom. I do not like GE, I think their stuff is junk, but I think most appliances are junk now days. I don't know what brand to recommend but I will not go with GE on anything again.

    #118 1 year ago
    Quoted from zr11990:

    Do you like ice?

    YES I DO! Sorry, I get frsutrated with ice Our LG now makes a lot of ice but they are very small pieces which I cannot stand.

    #119 1 year ago

    I get frsutrated myself.

    #120 1 year ago

    Good stuff! Glad you got it sorted out. I was hoping it was gonna be a matter of removing the resistor, but i guess that's not always the solution on these. Thanks for following up!

    #121 1 year ago

    Need to fridge rant.

    I work at a state college in NC. Our money pit chancellor and his wife want a new fridge in the new to us house (1.6 mil, spent another $500,000 getting it "good enough" for them to move in). Nothing wrong with the fridge. Matches the cabinets and a very nice fridge. The cost for the new fridge?

    Wait for it....

    $14,000 for a refrigerator.

    I could tell you stories on how much money they waste on him. I bet the students would just love to know some of their spending.

    Rant off.

    #122 1 year ago

    I hated to get a new fridge when this one was still cooling just fine, it was just the defrost not working. I just got everything put back together, defrost still working great. My bottom drawers on the fridge side are broken too. I'll probably buy at least one of the drawers, they are $72 on the sears parts direct site.

    #123 1 year ago

    If I ever do get a new fridge someday, I'll probably stick with Whirlpool. They are easy to work on (this Kenmore was made by whirlpool).

    #124 1 year ago

    If you grab the part # for the drawer from Sears site and try it at Amazon or ebay, you may be able to save a few bucks. Glad you got it all sorted out. Newer refrigerators are a lot more problematic these days, it's nice you can hang onto the old one for a while.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 26.95
    Playfield - Protection
    ULEKstore
    $ 44.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    From: $ 9.99
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    £ 49.00
    Lighting - Led
    PinballToys
    $ 99.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 29.99
    Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 399.99
    Cabinet - Toppers
    Great American Pinball
    $ 58.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lermods
    $ 7.65
    Cabinet Parts
    Third Coast Pinball
    From: $ 21.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 26.50
    $ 18.95
    $ 14.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 45.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Sparky Pinball
    $ 96.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 38.00
    Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 5.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Doc's Pinball Shop
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Great American Pinball
    $ 86.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 50.00
    Lighting - Led
    Rock Custom Pinball
    $ 13.00
    Electronics
    Yorktown Parts and Equip
    From: $ 20.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Rock Custom Pinball
    $ 42.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    There are 124 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside