HE washing machines suck too. Fortunately you can still get a traditional model for much less money.

We have well water...clean and clear. Plus the fridge runs it through a filter before it hits the ice maker anyway. Been working for 15 years and we LOVE IT! We use a LOT of ice. I practically fill my glass (big) with ice multiple times a day as does my wife and daughter. Making ice multiple times a day in those old trays would be a PITA. My wife's parents still do that and they never have enough ice when we go over.

The automatic ice maker is one of the greatest convenience's I've ever owned....2nd only to central air.

That being said my Mom lives in the city...and while her ice maker works, it does taste funny.

Make sure that water line that runs to your ice maker is in good shape, or you're in for a real surprise!

Two ice trays are convenient enough for me.

I have a GE profile side by side that's going 15 years now. I've had to replace the control board and the defrost heater late last year. So I put ~$200 in it to keep it going and its running like a champ and still looks almost new (hard to beat black texture). Beats dropping $1500+ on a new one that in the end does the same thing this one does...keeps food cold and makes ice (which is all I need it to do).

I'll take your word for it, but it looks more like Harvest Gold to me.

A friend of mine went to buy a new fridge a while back. Sales weasel asked him what he was looking for in a refrigerator. Mine friend said "I'd like it to last 20 years, like the last one." The guy replies "Oh, they don't make those any more."

There! I just fixed up your whole kitchen for you.

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Appliances should all be analog, forget the digital computer controlled sh*t,
I do not need my washing machine or Fridge to be "smarter" than me or
think it knows better or how I want to wash my clothes.
LG and Samsung make great TVs, but make crap washer/dryers or kitchen appliances.
The New top loading washers with low profile agitators are crap
constantly going off balance.
Front loading is the only way to go on washers.
We currently have all Kitchen Aid appliances in the kitchen and Electrolux Washer/dryer in Laundry.
the Whirlpool company markets Whirlpool, Roper, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air & Amana.
Electrolux also owns & markets Frigidaire & GE products.

I love how they market the $4000.00 set as “a spa for your clothes”. F-them.

If anyone happens to have one
I'm looking to buy
Frigidaire 3 door refrigerator model FPE-22V3A or similar

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OMG, The one picture had coppertone? was that the color? My mother back in the early seventies had refridge, washer, dryer, and stove. I don't think there was any other appliances out back then......maybe a dishwasher I don't remember.

We even had the wall phone to go with our avocado green kitchen.

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Bought matching LG appliances roughly 5 years ago and the only thing that has been problematic is the dishwasher. The 1st motor died within a month of use. They fixed it though. It's certainly not the best performing dishwasher, but other than making funny noises if you try to use detergent pods, it's still going strong.

bought the ge at lowes, mine is 5 yrs old now, still making it too. like $1000 no complaints

Our phone was the harvest gold, looked just like yours only a yellow color. I can remember way back then, we lived in a small town, you only needed to dial the last 4 digits of the number you =were calling.

My wife works for Whirlpool, so please buy any of the following brands:

Whirlpool
Maytag
KitchenAid
Jenn-Air
Amana
Inglis
Estate
Brastemp
Bauknecht
Indesit
Consul
Hotpoint
Diqua
Acros

In terms of features and quality from least to best for North America, it goes Amana, Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air. Man, some of those Jenn-Air fridges are amazing.

I've always had good luck with maytag appliances.

Oh, and if it matters, all Whirlpool appliances are made in the USA.

That's the one I bought for our new house. Don't know why but I had to have it. Black stainless too, that's the best part.

I've never known how to feel aboot a Michigan Company with all their plants in Ohio; That's a tuffy.

I have a GE profile, looks like yours except an older model. Have had it for 11 years now, zero issues and mine's been quiet too.
Selecting appliances is hard, I feel your pain! Good luck with what ever you choose

There's a Whirlpool factory down the street from my house, they make dishwashers there. I had terrible luck with whirlpool appliances, always seems the plastic cracks and falls apart. I switched to LG a few years ago and not had any issues with them, my fridge is very quite and I love it.

Do you have a model #, op? I can do a little research for you and possibly come up with a solution. If you already replaced defrost thermostat and heater, the only thing left is whatever controls the defrost cycle--most likely a circuit board of some sort.

(I fix household appliances for a living)

Interesting,, I have had my Amanda top freezer fridge for 26 years, still going strong, and my washer and dryer are GE, 35 years old and still working great. I had to do some dryer stuff 10 years ago but still working great....I must mention no kids, or pets...and currently no wife...maybe that is why..those panties could be rough on a washing machine.

Back when they were built in Amanda, Iowa.....

Best fridge for beer is the old pop ones. Holds 100+ bottles, or cans.

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Till like 8 years ago my parents tub and toilet were avocado green.

Well, i looked into your model and it uses an ADC (Adaptive Defrost Controller)--the small circuit board inside the control panel at the top-front of the refrigerator section. I've run into a few of these over the years and picked up a handy trick for fixing them. Often times the board still possesses the functionality to run the defrost cycle, but it's the 'adaptive defrost' feature that stops working. It's supposed to calculate how frequently to run the defrost cycle based on temps, how often the doors are opened/closed, and some other stuff. Luckily, there's a very easy fix that won't cost you a dime. All you have to do is cut a particular resistor off the board. Doing so disables the adaptive defrost feature and puts it into a timed defrost cycle every 8 hours instead. Here's the link to the pdf, but if it doesn't work, I'm also including screen caps of the service pointer.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.whirlpoolparts.ca/POL/ServicePointerDownload%3FpdfName%3D8178769C.pdf&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwiT9czW9-XZAhVhkuAKHUVUAPYQFggLMAA&usg=AOvVaw0iONR3w-rHJhBRsNiDyXgj

Note there are 2 different types of ADCs used on these refrigerators, yours is the ADCWFI style, which is shown in section 2. Before you do anything, unplug refrigerator. You'll need to access inside of control panel, which should hopefully be fairly straightforward, and is detailed in the service pointer. Once you're inside control panel, you'll pull the ADC board, locate R15 on it, clip it off, reinstall board. Make sure *before* you plug refrig back in to put both freezer and refrig temp controls around the middle settings. (That will insure the refrig starts up compressor and runs properly right away. Otherwise, if controls are off when it's plugged in, i think it runs a defrost cycle first, which may take 40+ minutes before it starts cooling again). I would suggest defrosting freezer before trying this.

Good luck! Hopefully that will fix it for ya. It's worked for several of my customers over the years.

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Well I wish there were more pros like you. Because Samsung seems to hire the cheapest sub contractor to come to my house and look up ways to fix my fridge on her phone. So goddamn agitating.

Does she look at YouTube videos as part of the service/troubleshooting techniques?

No I don't think it was anything that helpful. Probably a step by step procedure in a Samsung portal or some shit.
You know when a "pro" wants to borrow your hairdryer for a frozen ice maker you're in trouble.
But hey, a quick 6 months later and it was solved.

I hear ya. Samsung is a tough one though. They started coming around several years ago and I've been hesitant to get involved since a few so-so experiences trying to fix them. The tech manuals are loosely translated into English, which can make an already difficult diagnosis even harder to do. I also avoid most Bosch and LG appliances too, for similar reasons (with a few exceptions)...

To be fair, I'm certainly not above consulting YouTube/Google for help on the job. I also have access to a really good appliance repair site, and frequently access repair manuals and advice there. It's another tool in the arsenal. I can understand how it could lead one to question how knowledgeable a tech is when they're on their phone more than half the time though...

Nice! Good luck, and feel free to hit me up if you have any questions along the way.

Well, i only know from experience that this particular refrig doesn't usually start the compressor unless the controls are both in the on position when it's plugged in. Has the compressor come on at all since you plugged it back in?

As far as defrosting it, i will usually remove the evaporator cover in the freezer and defrost using a steam gun. In this case, I'd empty the perishables into a cooler, pull the plug and let it sit with both doors open for at least 10-12 hours (though i would usually recommend 24 to be thorough). Put towels down to soak up any water that may leak out in the process, or use a shop vac to periodically remove the water from the drip pan (which you may have to access from the rear, but I'll not certain about that). Then I'd put both controls on the middle settings, plug it in, keep the doors closed for 4 hours or so, and it should be ready to go.

Edit: i found a procedure for running the defrost mode if you want to try it. Note your refrig is actually a Whirlpool. If the evaporator is still frosted over pretty heavily, then the defrost bi-metal should be closed--which will allow you to put the refrig into a 21-minute defrost by following the steps. They don't specify if the same procedure applies to boards with the resistor removed. If you can't get it to defrost using the steps, I'd recommend following my original suggestions. Link: https://appliantology.org/blogs/entry/127-how-to-enter-defrost-mode-in-a-whirlpool-side-by-side-refrigerator-with-electronic-defrost/

Well, the defrost cycle should come on eventually. Your temps sound pretty good though, so it sounds like you may not even have to do anything further at this point. If anything, both sections are a little colder than I'd recommend. Are both controls set to the middle setting? Just monitor the temps for the next few days and if they stay somewhere around 0 in the freezer and 37 in the refrig you should be fine. If you get by for a week or so without incident, then I think it'll be safe to call it fixed.

Are you sure it hasn't defrosted at all? Is the evaporator cover removed in the freezer? Based on the temps you were getting, it sounds like the refrig is working ok (but maybe I'm missing something here)... What leads you to believe it still isn't defrosting?

Those defrost thermostats are rarely DOA. If anything, check the defrost thermostat for continuity. If it's got continuity, then it should be closed (which is what happens when the defrost thermostat gets cold enough)... As long as it's closed, it will allow the defrost heater to operate when the ADC puts the freezer into defrost mode. If you're not getting continuity and the defrost thermostat is ice cold--then you could have a bad defrost thermostat. Rare, but it can happen.

That looks like a Factory Specification Part, not.

I've yet to buy a critical part for anything safety related off of Amazon. Sorry, I don't trust them.

To me, it has to have the OE logo or FSP logo.

Have you been running the refrig with the evaporator cover off? That could be limiting the effectiveness of the defrost cycle (, and possibly account for the lower-than-expected temperatures...

Measure the space, you don't want to buy one and it not fit. Talked to enough delivery men who had problems with washer & dryers fitting.

My 1970's brown one from when I was young and started playing pinball.

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