I am doing some minor detail work today and playfield work so I am going to show the plastic refinishing process.
In this case it is on a new Whirlwind topper.
I could not track down a white one so I had to settle and of course overpay for this blue one.
At a minimum I am going paint it white so we will start with that goal and I will document it here in real time.

New blue topper.

image (resized).jpg

First step wash with warm soapy water.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Now dry it

image (resized).jpg

Now it has to be properly cleaned with a suitable plastic cleaner.
This removes plastic mold release agents and promotes proper adhesion.

image (resized).jpg

The plastic cleaner basically lightly softens the surface so it should be done quickly just in a single direction unless you plan on priming.
In this case the item is new and free of defects so the goal is just to refinish.
At this time I will lightly scuff and water sand with a light duty scotch brite and sanding paste.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Washed and dried again now wiped down with plastic cleaner again.
Little blue residue this time and that lets me know I am working the actual plastic not a contaminant on the surface.

image (resized).jpg

Topper masked. I don’t want to remove the mesh even though it would be more ideal because I cannot risk damaging it.

image (resized).jpg

Next will be tacking off and applying the correct adhesion promoter.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Promoter applied.

image (resized).jpg

Lightly base coating in white

image (resized).jpg

Will let that set for a bit and see how much of the blue weeps out then will lightly base once more.
The toughest spots to eliminate the weeping will be the cracks and crevices.

image (resized).jpg

Base is well dried and is now lightly sanded to remove any fuzziness from those previous processes.
When painting white white non pigmented sandpaper truly helps eliminate the possibility of creating discoloration and streaks in the finish.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Blown and tacked off again.
With plastic painting testing with compressed air is a good gauge to see if the adhesion is there.
Usually if the paint is not properly bonded it blows right off.

image (resized).jpg

Basing in white for a final time.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Unmasked and ready to clear.
When painting white a clean stand and direct surfaces are mandatory.

image (resized).jpg

A special clear is also needed.
Going with a slightly matte finish as well.

image (resized).jpg

Cleared.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

No I don’t think so. Once installed with the motor and everything in place you would not see it.
If it were bare without the mesh already in place I would consider it but with that there you really cannot properly prep the interior.

Thanks. I actually thought to document that process for a couple reasons.
The first being it hopefully highlights how involved and how to carry out the proper process for painting plastic .
The second was the person that I am restoring the game for ,when I told him I could only find blue was like “No big deal just paint it white!”
No offense taken on my part but it just made me realize how little people understand about what is involved in the lesser details sometimes.

Yes. I had a hard time finding that topper and it cost more than twice what it normally would so I couldn’t justify the risk.
What I normally see happen when drilling rivets out of plastic is it can crack the plastic if thin or melt it if they spin or get too hot.
Not too hard to deal with on a ramp or something more traditionally shaped/flat however with this crazy shaped item I wouldn’t chance it.