So I'm getting some games ready to bring to Allentown and want to make them reliable for the show. I need to replace a rectifier on a Stern reproduction power supply. I'm pretty sure I blew the feature lamps supply when a connector touched ground somehow. The board has 3 3506W rectifiers, all I have on hand is a 3502W, will this be interchangeable?
Thanks!
Quoted from wiredoug:so its 35A 200V vs 35A 600V .. think about "whats it actually doing in the circuit"
Thanks, I thought it was for the feature lamps. I changed it and still no feature lamps. According to manual, it should be BR1. Maybe something else on the board went bad.
Quoted from CNKay:Well a dead short will almost blow any fuse instantly. Have you checked fuses ?
Pm sent as well.
Chris, thanks again for your help. I measured the rectifiers as you described. BR1 was acting flaky when placing the probes on them. All of the sudden the feature lamps started working. I shut down the game. I figured there was a connector issue. I pulled the whole assembly from the cab. Checked all connectors associated with feature lamps. All seemed good.
When to the rectifier board which was soldered in by previous owner. Some joints look iffy but still tight. While handling the board I noticed F1 fuse was a little loose. I had this problem recently with a -54 repro board. I measured the size of the fuse with calipers to make sure it was not one of those cheapy skinny fuses, it was exactly .25 in.
I'm not sure how the fuse clips became spread apart but I tightened it and now fuse is snug. While I have the power supply on table, I will resolder all the E connections.
Are you going to Pinfest?
Rich
**** I measured the rectifiers as you described. BR1 was acting flaky when placing the probes on them. All of the sudden the feature lamps started working ********
You probably have a 'bad/cold' solder connection/s on that bridge rectifier.
You should reflow the solder on all four leads; making sure the solder flows evenly to the other side of the board for a complete solder connection!
Just my thoughts....... 
John
Quoted from Lovef2k:BR1 was acting flaky when placing the probes on them. All of the sudden the feature lamps started working.
Confused a little you measure the bridge with power off.
anyhow so it was a very loose fuse holder? and tightening fixed? You may be able to get away with pinching with pliers but i have been told that it really just will not last and you should change the fuse holders. They really should be extremely tight almost unable to spin and needing a puller or screwdriver to pry out.. if not it is basically shot.
Quoted from JKnPA:**** I measured the rectifiers as you described. BR1 was acting flaky when placing the probes on them. All of the sudden the feature lamps started working ********
You probably have a 'bad/cold' solder connection/s on that bridge rectifier.
You should reflow the solder on all four leads; making sure the solder flows evenly to the other side of the board for a complete solder connection!
Just my thoughts.......
John
Thanks, solder connection good, I just installled the rectifier. The lamps were out before and the rectifier I removed was good. Was loose fuse clip for F1,
Quoted from CNKay:Confused a little you measure the bridge with power off.
anyhow so it was a very loose fuse holder? and tightening fixed? You may be able to get away with pinching with pliers but i have been told that it really just will not last and you should change the fuse holders. They really should be extremely tight almost unable to spin and needing a puller or screwdriver to pry out.. if not it is basically shot.
Thanks Chris. I measured the voltage with power on. AC and DC. I had removed the board from the metal bracket and faced it down to access the back side. While pressing the leads down, the lamps started working and that's when I discovered the loose fuse.
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